Hi. New to the forum. I've always wanted a Land Rover and am currently deciding between a D1 and D2. I understand D1s are simpler and generally more reliable. However, D1s are now over 20 years old and most have engines with ~200k miles on them. In my reading, it's been mentioned that due to tooling wear, later Rover V8s were less than perfect from the factory.

How common are slipped liners in D1s? Specifically the 4.0 D1s. If it has over heated before, is that a block to stay away from?

 

Definitely not as common in the D1. It all deoedep on the severity of the over heat really. Higher mileage and well cared for is fine in my book.

 

 

I agree 100%. Keep in mind too that the latest years of the D2 had such severe casting issues the oil pump would explode... well break but either way things would not end well for the engine. There is also other issues with the D2 such as the front drive line, the three amigos and the elimination of the center locking diff for a couple(?) of years. But with a D2 you also get a bigger motor (maybe), traction control (eliminating most of the need for locking axle diffs) and for us family guys you can find third row seating which is a bitter better than jump seats in the D1.

 

D1 vs D2 on which is easier to work on is a 50/50 split if you ask me, some things are easier on a D1 while other things are way easier to work on with the D2, it just depends. For instance a typical complete brake job on a D1 is PITA due to how the rotors are held into place, on a D2 you can do a complete brake job in an hour. Then doing a tune up with new wires, spark plugs, and coils is easier on the D1 vs D2 (however once you've done it on a D2 it's a breeze). The front drive shaft on any LR with a V8 can break it's just more common for the OEM Double Cardon Driveshaft on a D2 to do more damage if it breaks. Slap in a new front drive shaft with zerk fittings and call it a day, and lube it at every oil change. 3 Amigo's on a D2 are extremely exaggerated IMHO. It's either a bad connection inside the WABCO Unit, the Shuttle Valve Switches/Shuttle Valve Switch wiring, or an ABS sensor. With the proper scantool diagnosing them is a breeze. ABS on the D1 is very basic and nothing to write home about. When the 3 Amigo's are fixed with Option B and new sensors it's functionality is excellent with TC and HDC.

It was the alignment pins that were slightly off causing excessive wear on the oil pump gears = they failed very very early on. Safe to say there isn't a single 03 D2 on the road today with that problem unless it's at the bottom of the English Channel and it accidentally fell off a freighter. All 03's in the US were fixed under warranty and they either failed before their first oil change or just soon after. Sleeve wise it's much more common in the 4.6L found in the 03-04 D2's, but it depends on how badly the 3.5, 3.9, 4.0, 4.2, or 4.6 was overheated.

My 02 Kalahari has nearly 240K on it and it runs smoother than most D2's I've seen with barely 100K on them. I love the D1 exterior/interior and I love the D2 exterior/interior, but I find the D2 more fun and modern feeling vs the D1 that feels like a RRC. Either one if well taken care of will treat you well. People think I'm crazy when I bash Jeeps vs LR's, but the fact remains I owned 3 Jeep's back to back and they were either broken, about to break, or JEEP = "just empty every pocket". Then I went back to nearly 10 year old LR's vs new Jeep's and I suddenly was out enjoying them vs fixing them. TLC on a LR goes a long way & build quality IMHO is to a much higher standard than Jeep's of the same era. I mean compare an 04 D2 vs 04 Jeep Wrangler. The underbody of the LR was nicely painted vs the Jeep that already had rusty axles, suspension bits, and frame mounts....

 

I drive a Jeep with cast iron block and head, what do I know about sleeves....... ^