Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

how deep have you gone into the dash?

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Old Nov 2, 2018 | 06:20 AM
  #11  
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Holy cow , Nathan. That is a job!
 
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 11:13 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by nathanb
I've taken the entire dash cover off. The thing I didn't remove was the steel support and the AC evaporator and heater core. It is significant work to remove it all. I'm glad it's done. The main reasons I removed it was to recoat it with SEM (to repair UV damage on the Bahama Beige dash cover, passenger airbag cover, glovebox and the panel under the wheel), and the second reason was to underlay the dash with foam and repair all the cracked plastic to stop rattles. I underlaid it all with 1/8 neoprene foam, replaced all the weatherstripping on the ducts with high-quality weatherstrip foam (the stuff that's $20/roll at Home Depot) and repaired or replaced anything that was broken. The dash itself is built on an ABS form that can be melted with acetone and reflowed/filled with ABS cement. It's overlaid by polyurethane foam and vinyl. I cleaned the vinyl with ammonia and used an adhesion promoter before the SEM. I reinforced some areas of different components with plastic-specified two-part epoxy, and some components like the dash center I replaced with an unbroken one off a parts car (via ebay). While I was in there, I reorganized the wiring harness, lubed all the vent/damper controls, and cleaned it all out. I work very slowly, but I would say it took me about 40 hours work. I've done a lot of work like this on the whole interior, the door panels, the rear A/C, headliner, the seats. The only thing that isn't totally sound at this point is the center console. The ones I see off parts cars are all broken. Even the skateboard is hard to find a perfect replacement for. At this point, my console is not worse than the replacements I've seen available. I'll live with it until a better option comes along.

WOW - I have two center pieces to play with and a third at a local yard that would just need a broke piece super glued. I plan on using one to mount my ultra gauge where the ash tray is - if I can figure a way to hinge it for access to the buttons on the back.

I have refinished the front doors on my first d1 using bondo to fill in the deterioration at the top then painted them but after 2 years they started getting webs cracking from the bondo.
Have you had luck with another product for that or should I be trying some flexible bondo like for bumpers?

The quietest my d1 has been was after removing the center dash repairing the cracks and lubing the surrounding dash with baby oil. Don't know how long that will last tho.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 11:35 PM
  #13  
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For the cracks on the top of the door panels, I used a what I think is some kind of silicone vinyl repair product. If I remember right, it was a tube of Loctite flexible vinyl repair stuff that came with a little textured patch mold that you could temporarily overlay the repair area to give the goop a pebbled grain texture once it cured if you were repairing a tear or hole in a textured vinyl seat. In any event, it's more flexible than regular Bondo. The disadvantage is it's not sandable. So leveling it perfectly has to be done before it cures. Once the repair is cured, the door panel can be recolored with SEM. I'm not necessarily recommending this solution. It was the solution I found when I went looking, but I can't say that I've tried several alternatives and found the best.
 
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