YouTube - Transfer Case Land Rover Discovery

Back and to the right is normal driving, that is full time 4x4 hi with the transfer case unlocked.
Forward and to the right is full time 4x4 low range, this would be used for low speed driving in snow, sand, wet grass or pulling the boat out of the water.
Back and to the left is full time 4x4 hi locked, this means that both prop shafts are locked together and equal amounts of power will be sent to each prop shaft.
This would be used for driving at higher speeds in snow, sand, mud, wet grass etc. and MUST only be used while traction is low and wheel slippage is likely to happen.
Forward and to the left is full time 4x4 lo range locked, meaning the transfer case is in lo range and both prop shafts are locked together.
This is for maximum power to both axles.
This would be used off road in deep snow, sand, mud, pulling a boat up a gravel or wet paved boat ramp where maximum traction and power are needed.
Pulling stumps would be another reason to use lo-locked.
A few tips for using transfer case, put the transmission in neutral when changing gears on the transfer case.
DO NOT drive on dry roads with the transfer case locked into either hi or lo range and severe damage to the driveline may result.
Keep in mind that your transfer case shifter may be seized or hard to move from lack of use.

 

This has been moved to the Tech Section, any tips or pointers can be added there.
You may also link to it to help explain how to use the t-case shifter.

 

Hi Spike555 thanks for posting on how to use a t-case shifter, at first I thought the transfer case had to be in neutral for it to be locked, it now makes more sense that the transfer case has to be in gear before the center diff can be locked. Thanks for clarifying.

 

An old thread but.....So I was watching a video the other day and it's something I think everyone with a D1 should see.

https://youtu.be/vFHCYuPTbfg

Pay attention to the part where he stated if you have consistent wheel spin for 5-10 seconds the center differential will "self destruct." Got my attention. Point being, if you anticipate wheel slip, LOCK that sucker.

 

I always lock the cdl as soon as I leave the asphalt.

 

Cool.
Thanks

 

OK, I'll bite....why would spinning a wheel damage the center diff? The explanation was not clear to me.

....in this video

 

Thanks for posting this.

How would you tell if the Center Diff is blown like the video says? If center diff is always locked up, would it be so bad that tires would squeal on pavement when turning??

 

Yes, the video narrator doesn't explain exactly how one leads to the other. I hope someone more informed might enlighten us. I'd like to know too.

As far as how you'd tell if it was always locked up I guess you could just unlock it with the selector and jack up and try to turn wheel. If it doesn't spin then it's locked up. Now it doesn't specifically mean that was the cause but it would tell you if it's locked and it shouldn't be.

I suppose if it's locked permanently in high you still have a generally operable vehicle, no? But I would wager premature wear of other drive components would occur faster. I'm just hypothesizing here....

 

Makes sense. Need to rotate tires soon, will test the CDL while its jacked up.