huge problem
#1
huge problem
Hello every one, got a 96 and my problem is as follow: the 1st one is pulsating lights, the second one is when I turn the a/c on the rpm needle drops to 0, the battery light comes on and it runs erratic, my third problem is a 1316 code, I change the plugs and wires and nothing, I read about the code in this forum but I don't know what else to do, I can't pass nc Inspection
Any help will be greatly appreciated
Any help will be greatly appreciated
#2
First, check the belt routing.
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If that is correct replace the alternator because it is bad.
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If that is correct replace the alternator because it is bad.
#4
Or a bad ground or loose wire or high resistance where the main lead from the alternator enters the main fuse block.
You can get the alternator tested before yyou gt another one. And if you get a rebuild thru most cheap auto stores, you will be disappointed. Keep the receipt for all the replacements you will need.
Look at all your primary grounds and your battery as well. It could be any, or a combination up to and including all of them!
You can get the alternator tested before yyou gt another one. And if you get a rebuild thru most cheap auto stores, you will be disappointed. Keep the receipt for all the replacements you will need.
Look at all your primary grounds and your battery as well. It could be any, or a combination up to and including all of them!
#5
Alternator has bad diode, when you have normal load it can barely handle it, so regulator ends up charge/not charge, and that pulsing light is battery voltage going from charge to discharge. When you increase amp drain (AC turned on), alternator can't provide any charge voltage, and tachometer drive signal from the alternator is lost.
You have several options -
Used unit from jink yard. $30
Indy shop repair of existing $90 - $100
DIY repair of existing - replace part in picture inside the alternator, about $65 from BP Utah.
Rebuilt alternator from parts store - if you go this route, select a store that offers lifetime waranty, and keep receipt. The reman ones have a very high failure rate. I think I paid about $130 for mine, on second replacement.
You have several options -
Used unit from jink yard. $30
Indy shop repair of existing $90 - $100
DIY repair of existing - replace part in picture inside the alternator, about $65 from BP Utah.
Rebuilt alternator from parts store - if you go this route, select a store that offers lifetime waranty, and keep receipt. The reman ones have a very high failure rate. I think I paid about $130 for mine, on second replacement.
#6
ok well the belt was misrouted, the alternator works great! no more light flickering, but now i have a new simptom. when im driving and try to stop the rpm's fluctuate between 300 and 0, but when i step on the gas it goes away, as well as when it sits for a minute it goes back to normal, i put an OBD II scanner and i was looking at some numbers but the one that got my attention was one of the O2 sensors upstream, B1 sensor read 24 and B2 sensor read -24 both upstream, now the sensors on the down stream on both banks read 1.255 any suggestions will be greately appreciated.
#7
Alternator has three wires on the back. Two are good sized and attached with bolts. One is small and just plugs on as a flying lead. That is the tachometer drive. Could be just a dirty connector. Or could be like Spike said, also alternator trouble. Do you hve a volt meter , or can you go by an auto parts store and let them test it?
On your OBDII scanner, it should show engine rpm. Compare that to tach reading. The tach is driven by alternator, the ECU gets the signal from the crank position sensor.
On your OBDII scanner, it should show engine rpm. Compare that to tach reading. The tach is driven by alternator, the ECU gets the signal from the crank position sensor.
#9
ok this is what i've done: change the oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs and wires, changed the serpentine belt, change the fuel filter (it was clogged) changed the transfer and differential fluids, added 93 octane full tank. i cleaned the intake manifold with mrc thru the vacum line on the manifold, i put MOA oil additive to the engine in case there is a sticky valve, but so far no luck
i still get a misfire code P1316, but here is something i found; the coil for the #5 spark plug in the back of the engine in the coil pack has a crack on the plastic portion where the spark plug wire goes, i dont know if that small of a crack has any affect
i still get a misfire code P1316, but here is something i found; the coil for the #5 spark plug in the back of the engine in the coil pack has a crack on the plastic portion where the spark plug wire goes, i dont know if that small of a crack has any affect
#10