i am lost
i am lost
ok hi i am need lr and just got a 1998 for 50 buck from a guy i work with it needed a transfer case so got one for 200 so get it put in and now the dam thing is geting hot and then it cools back down so 
no water in the oil no smoke and no los of power i am geting a lot of persher in the cooling i am thinking head gaskit but i dont know the car 16759 on it i love this thing my wife dose not want me the fix it but i dont care if you can help me it wood be cool i am 26 and a full time dad and roofer and i cant spell all that good help if can the last shop i wint to brok all kinds of stuff so no more of that i can fix it if i know what going on plez help thank you for your time
no water in the oil no smoke and no los of power i am geting a lot of persher in the cooling i am thinking head gaskit but i dont know the car 16759 on it i love this thing my wife dose not want me the fix it but i dont care if you can help me it wood be cool i am 26 and a full time dad and roofer and i cant spell all that good help if can the last shop i wint to brok all kinds of stuff so no more of that i can fix it if i know what going on plez help thank you for your time
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 88
From: Savannah Georgia
OK We start with the basics:
1. Coolant should be full to seam in overflow jug, cap on tight.
2. check belt route. see attached.
3. check fan clutch - when truck is warmed up, turn off engine. spin fan by hand. Should not spin more than 1 full revolution, if it freewheels the fluid inside the clutch is gone. $10 - $20 at junk yard, $50 for a new one that crosses over from certain Chevy's.
Fan blades need to have cupped side of blades toward engine. When sitting at idle it should be able to suck a thin plastic bag toward the grille, if it blows away from grill something is wrong and air flow is going the wrong way.
At idle the fan and fan clutch provide the cooling, but at 45 mph that is not the case, the wind does the work then.
4. Temp gauge, when normal, will read between 8:00 and 9:00 position on the gauge. If it reads like 10:00 or 11:00 position it is way too hot. It is an all aluminum engine and it will not stand getting overheated.
5. Radiator is a brass and copper style unit, heavy duty, can stand acid boil out and rod out if in decent shape, small shop near me does that for like $65. If old coolant was not changes, or distilled water was not used, radiator can be full of calcium, or scale. Also, if previous owner used "stopz leekz" to try to fight a head gasket problem, that chemcical can stop up the bottom rows of the radiator, reducing cooling. When truck is warmed up, and OFF, feel across radiator , should be about same temp all over, within about 10 degrees.
6. One thing that happens when head gaskets are leaking is that bubbles of combustion gas get in the coolant. Makes steam, makes it extra hot, and makes a sound like water gurgling in heater hoses under the dash, whether you have heater on or not. There is a chemical test you can buy from the auto parts store to test coolant for this combustion gas being in there, it is proof positive that head gaskets are leaking. About $35. But sometimes the gurgle is caused by air trapped in the system.
7. If truck overheats at idle, that is one thing. If driving down the road the temp spikes, again it could be most of the things above, head gaskets, or worse, a cracked block.
8. Water pump can be bad. About $50, or more, depending on source. Look for leaks, pulley wobbling, rough feel when turned by hand with belt off.
9. As a start, why don't you check all the things above that don't cost anything, and then tell us what you found, miles on truck, how it over heats, how long it takes, only at idle, or when driving, etc. And don't drive with temp gauge above 10:00 or you might do more damage.
10. This is a good DIY project. A non-running truck sells to salvage yard for a lot more than you paid for it. A running one brings even more. If you would like owners manual, and all the shop manuals, you can download them for free at link below, they are called the RAVE.
11. Don't worry about spellin, a lot of mechanics are afraid of heights, that's why they take naps on creepers under the truck.
12. Afraid your previous owner knew there were major problems, otherwise why sell it for $50. Running ones easily go for $1500 even in rough shape.
1. Coolant should be full to seam in overflow jug, cap on tight.
2. check belt route. see attached.
3. check fan clutch - when truck is warmed up, turn off engine. spin fan by hand. Should not spin more than 1 full revolution, if it freewheels the fluid inside the clutch is gone. $10 - $20 at junk yard, $50 for a new one that crosses over from certain Chevy's.
Fan blades need to have cupped side of blades toward engine. When sitting at idle it should be able to suck a thin plastic bag toward the grille, if it blows away from grill something is wrong and air flow is going the wrong way.
At idle the fan and fan clutch provide the cooling, but at 45 mph that is not the case, the wind does the work then.
4. Temp gauge, when normal, will read between 8:00 and 9:00 position on the gauge. If it reads like 10:00 or 11:00 position it is way too hot. It is an all aluminum engine and it will not stand getting overheated.
5. Radiator is a brass and copper style unit, heavy duty, can stand acid boil out and rod out if in decent shape, small shop near me does that for like $65. If old coolant was not changes, or distilled water was not used, radiator can be full of calcium, or scale. Also, if previous owner used "stopz leekz" to try to fight a head gasket problem, that chemcical can stop up the bottom rows of the radiator, reducing cooling. When truck is warmed up, and OFF, feel across radiator , should be about same temp all over, within about 10 degrees.
6. One thing that happens when head gaskets are leaking is that bubbles of combustion gas get in the coolant. Makes steam, makes it extra hot, and makes a sound like water gurgling in heater hoses under the dash, whether you have heater on or not. There is a chemical test you can buy from the auto parts store to test coolant for this combustion gas being in there, it is proof positive that head gaskets are leaking. About $35. But sometimes the gurgle is caused by air trapped in the system.
7. If truck overheats at idle, that is one thing. If driving down the road the temp spikes, again it could be most of the things above, head gaskets, or worse, a cracked block.
8. Water pump can be bad. About $50, or more, depending on source. Look for leaks, pulley wobbling, rough feel when turned by hand with belt off.
9. As a start, why don't you check all the things above that don't cost anything, and then tell us what you found, miles on truck, how it over heats, how long it takes, only at idle, or when driving, etc. And don't drive with temp gauge above 10:00 or you might do more damage.
10. This is a good DIY project. A non-running truck sells to salvage yard for a lot more than you paid for it. A running one brings even more. If you would like owners manual, and all the shop manuals, you can download them for free at link below, they are called the RAVE.
11. Don't worry about spellin, a lot of mechanics are afraid of heights, that's why they take naps on creepers under the truck.
12. Afraid your previous owner knew there were major problems, otherwise why sell it for $50. Running ones easily go for $1500 even in rough shape.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 88
From: Savannah Georgia
Also - I forgot to talk about the thermostat. This thermostat is just like an old Chevy or Buick unit. They are about $8. Buy one rated for 180 degrees, original ones were rated for 195. Buy several gaskets for it. Once you get back with the other info, we may want you to take out the thermostat, and just put back a gasket, this will run truck at like 140 degrees, and if it still overheats then it sure a'int the thermostat. You do need a themostat, so the 180 will work fine. But let's check the other stuff first, before we spend a nickle.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 23
From: Boston
Savannah, from now on you should just reference that last post you made to everyone thats asks a super generic sweeping question. I've seen you painstakingly write out how to trouble shoot your whole car to like....ten dudes. You should just make a flow chart sticky of how to figure out whats wrong with your truck. Start at the ignition....Does it turn over(A. yes, B.no) A....does it idle high/lo B.....Does the starter engage....
you know like one of those...it'd be hilarious
you know like one of those...it'd be hilarious
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 88
From: Savannah Georgia
RE: Why are you putting so much effort into this Savannah?
I can't see the people on the other end of the keyboard. Can't shake hands and feel those hard callouses. Can't see the wing tips and power tie. Can't smell the sweat from unloading six pallets of bolts. Can't hear the twang of a Texas accent. Can't see if he still has all his fingers. Can't tell if he has more tattoos than a kick boxing biker. Can't see if his clothes look like a wrinkle bomb hit them, or if there is paint on them, grease on them, etc. Can't see the diplomas on the wall (or the wall full of diplomas), Can't read the business card to see the job title or if there are extra letters after the name.
What I do know about him is that:
A. Family man, mid 20's, construction work that could be seasonal. (Sounds like average Joe - overtime comes and goes)
B. She-who-must-be-obeyed is watching the budget. He may have exhausted the fruit jar with the indy shop work on the transfer case. (and our better halves have never said we spend too much $ or time on "that truck"?)
C. He has a running (somewhat) Rover of unknown type that he paid $50 for. (Who among us would not have taken that deal?)
D. He is a Rover owner, forum member, has reasonable questions. Deserves support. And will get it.
I can't see the people on the other end of the keyboard. Can't shake hands and feel those hard callouses. Can't see the wing tips and power tie. Can't smell the sweat from unloading six pallets of bolts. Can't hear the twang of a Texas accent. Can't see if he still has all his fingers. Can't tell if he has more tattoos than a kick boxing biker. Can't see if his clothes look like a wrinkle bomb hit them, or if there is paint on them, grease on them, etc. Can't see the diplomas on the wall (or the wall full of diplomas), Can't read the business card to see the job title or if there are extra letters after the name.
What I do know about him is that:
A. Family man, mid 20's, construction work that could be seasonal. (Sounds like average Joe - overtime comes and goes)
B. She-who-must-be-obeyed is watching the budget. He may have exhausted the fruit jar with the indy shop work on the transfer case. (and our better halves have never said we spend too much $ or time on "that truck"?)
C. He has a running (somewhat) Rover of unknown type that he paid $50 for. (Who among us would not have taken that deal?)
D. He is a Rover owner, forum member, has reasonable questions. Deserves support. And will get it.
Winching
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 522
Likes: 1
RE: Why are you putting so much effort into this Savannah?
I can't see the people on the other end of the keyboard. Can't shake hands and feel those hard callouses. Can't see the wing tips and power tie. Can't smell the sweat from unloading six pallets of bolts. Can't hear the twang of a Texas accent. Can't see if he still has all his fingers. Can't tell if he has more tattoos than a kick boxing biker. Can't see if his clothes look like a wrinkle bomb hit them, or if there is paint on them, grease on them, etc. Can't see the diplomas on the wall (or the wall full of diplomas), Can't read the business card to see the job title or if there are extra letters after the name.
What I do know about him is that:
A. Family man, mid 20's, construction work that could be seasonal. (Sounds like average Joe - overtime comes and goes)
B. She-who-must-be-obeyed is watching the budget. He may have exhausted the fruit jar with the indy shop work on the transfer case. (and our better halves have never said we spend too much $ or time on "that truck"?)
C. He has a running (somewhat) Rover of unknown type that he paid $50 for. (Who among us would not have taken that deal?)
D. He is a Rover owner, forum member, has reasonable questions. Deserves support. And will get it.
I can't see the people on the other end of the keyboard. Can't shake hands and feel those hard callouses. Can't see the wing tips and power tie. Can't smell the sweat from unloading six pallets of bolts. Can't hear the twang of a Texas accent. Can't see if he still has all his fingers. Can't tell if he has more tattoos than a kick boxing biker. Can't see if his clothes look like a wrinkle bomb hit them, or if there is paint on them, grease on them, etc. Can't see the diplomas on the wall (or the wall full of diplomas), Can't read the business card to see the job title or if there are extra letters after the name.
What I do know about him is that:
A. Family man, mid 20's, construction work that could be seasonal. (Sounds like average Joe - overtime comes and goes)
B. She-who-must-be-obeyed is watching the budget. He may have exhausted the fruit jar with the indy shop work on the transfer case. (and our better halves have never said we spend too much $ or time on "that truck"?)
C. He has a running (somewhat) Rover of unknown type that he paid $50 for. (Who among us would not have taken that deal?)
D. He is a Rover owner, forum member, has reasonable questions. Deserves support. And will get it.
Thinking of you!
Baja
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 52
From: Georgia, USA
Getting a lot of pressure in the cooling system can be a bad sign.
In addition to the other checks I'd do a cylinder leak down test. Some auto parts stores will lend gauges for free, with a refundable deposit. If you're a roofer you should have access to an air compressor to do the test.
You could also check the cooling system pressure with the engine running (be careful it doesn't overheat). It should be 15psi or less.
If money is tight I'd definitely do that before spending any money on it.
In addition to the other checks I'd do a cylinder leak down test. Some auto parts stores will lend gauges for free, with a refundable deposit. If you're a roofer you should have access to an air compressor to do the test.
You could also check the cooling system pressure with the engine running (be careful it doesn't overheat). It should be 15psi or less.
If money is tight I'd definitely do that before spending any money on it.