I could use alittle help...
#1
I could use alittle help...
It started about a week ago. I popped codes p1373 and p1371 so coil 1 and 3 are firing early.so of course its running like crap.. it would come and go at tim es it would run like it should,but when it wasn't running well I'd smell gas and the cats would glow..well t he whole y-pipe actually the headers were not neither was the muffler.. I figured since it was only running on 4the cylinders its dumping raw gas into the cats..
So... I replaced both offers the coils and fired it up yesterday ran pretty well till I got a couple blocks then bam right back into the same ol thing running in open loop and cats cherry red..
I pulled some readings from the ultragauge I dunno if the will help or not..
The maf g/s (.10) ... tp 1% (12.5) bank 1 O2 sensor 1 (.035) sensor 2 (.080) rpm is in the 705will to 715 range
oh new champion copper plugs and I went with a universal msd 8mm streetwire I did that first when the codes popped..
And that's all I gotta say about that.. (in my best forrest gump voice)
So... I replaced both offers the coils and fired it up yesterday ran pretty well till I got a couple blocks then bam right back into the same ol thing running in open loop and cats cherry red..
I pulled some readings from the ultragauge I dunno if the will help or not..
The maf g/s (.10) ... tp 1% (12.5) bank 1 O2 sensor 1 (.035) sensor 2 (.080) rpm is in the 705will to 715 range
oh new champion copper plugs and I went with a universal msd 8mm streetwire I did that first when the codes popped..
And that's all I gotta say about that.. (in my best forrest gump voice)
#3
Its in the 170 range at those readings and the O2's pretty much stay there at idle if raise the motor up to 1500 they change to 1.350 and are fluctuating.. the sensor one will drop back to .030 occasionally while the other stays in 1.300 range
Last edited by SSchultz; 11-11-2012 at 10:02 AM.
#4
Your engine is running to cold and is being over fueled by the ECU.
Cold engines need more fuel than hot ones, you are running in "full choke".
I had a similar problems a few years ago, replaced the engine temp sensor and all was right with the world once again.
Right next to the t-stat housing.
What temp t-stat are you using?
When was it last changed?
Cold engines need more fuel than hot ones, you are running in "full choke".
I had a similar problems a few years ago, replaced the engine temp sensor and all was right with the world once again.
Right next to the t-stat housing.
What temp t-stat are you using?
When was it last changed?
Last edited by Spike555; 11-11-2012 at 10:12 AM.
#5
The four coils have a common plus battery volts thru the same fuse under dash, so that must be OK. Each coil has a separate ground switched by the ECU, so possibly wiring or connector issue. See attached wire map and pages on the codes. And pix of where that header connector, C1002, is located. Other connection is at the ECU, and could also be an issue, and the entire ECU circuit board if it has gotten wet.
#6
#7
#8
#9
That is a good point. On your scanner, what does coolant temp say when truck is cold before starting? Should be local temp, but my D1 will read -40F if sensor unplugged. ECU coolant temp sensor has two wires, gauge has one wire, located next to thermostat. Also, I think my throttle % is a little different than yours. Pix of scanner (with cardboard in front of radiator at idle to show heat gauge issues).
#10
Im running a 180 thermostat and I changed it about 3 months ago which now that it is colder I do notice when it opens the temp will drop to about 168 then slowly get back into the 180's but it takes awhile..
Also yes it shows the ambient temp at start up..
Also yes it shows the ambient temp at start up..
Last edited by SSchultz; 11-11-2012 at 10:33 AM.