It's a 1999 Disco with 161,000 km. Price was really right as it is DOA. Battery was dead, it has sat for a year-his repair shop said fuel pump dead. Body, interior (leather), rubber-all excellent. I installed new battery, the remote would not activate anything, opening door with key set off alarms. I tried the EKA procedure & the remote now works, windows now work, engine turns over. I'm getting down to shorter strokes- the passive ignition key lock will not disengage key without disconnecting battery, auto trans shifter is locked (seized) in neutral, rear door (hatch)will not open. I haven't accessed the fuel pump relay to check that, would like to get in rear to access fuel pump to check power there. Any suggestions of where to go from here. I have downloaded manual, it is the most obtusfious piece of literature I have seen. It describes various alarm functions and then contradicts itself with the exceptions and what MAY be enabled. Can't wait to get this thing sorted out, then I'll sell my Denali.

 

The RAVE manual is a piece of cake to read compared to the Robert Bentley Manual for the Volkswagen Corrado. Now that is a manual that is truly in a class of its own for A) sheer size and B) making little to any sense until you've looked through it 50 times..

 

Fuel pump relay under the hood in fuse box. You can jumper there and hear pump run. Be sure to reset inertia switch (big round button on cube thing on firewall or close). You'll find wiring diagrams in circuit layouts, but color photos and locations and pin outs of connectors in electrical library. D2 manual is much better than D1. But then again, the D2 has more electronics (why do you think they put on a bigger alternator to run the same size engine block?).

If sat with low to no fuel in it pump will likely be toast. $85 pump only module from parts store.

 

Good day on the Disco. Auto shift lever is seized in neutral-not alarm locked. I exposed the fuel pump through the back access and voila-there were NO wires leading to it. Crawled in the snow under neath and found the remains. The plug for the pump was burned off completely-the fuel gauge plug had one wire pulled off at plug. The female on the pump side was melted to nothingness. I guess for reliability in this case I should look at a whole new pump. Any suggestions for source for plug ends? As well-there are three black wires that look to be power to pump and a second wire wire & purple? possibly ground? It is now clear this car has sat for much longer than one year-I'm thinking three or more years due to the seized shifter, the seized rear door, all the doors being very stiff to open close. This could be the never ending story if the mice got to it.

 

1. Here's the pages from the RAVE for the D1, electrical troubleshooting guide.

The GB wire is green/black, fuel gauge.

The B wire from bottom is black, ground.

The WP wire is white/purple, + battery from inertia switch to fuel pump motor. Inertia switch kills fuel pump when you crash.

The electrical manual also has pin outs of connectors, and photos of locations. You will be using it quite a bit.

2. You might find pump from dismantler, or salvage yard. New ones pricey. If you have the chassis of the pump in good condition a new motor is like $85 (Airtex).

3. Been sitting that long pump gas out of it with something else, pour new gas in, like five gallons. Don't want new pump sitting in a puddle or it will burn up.

 

For it to be melted like that is not a good sign. You are in for a long hard ride is my gut feeling. You may do well buying a second one and trying to combine the best of each into one.

 

Pop the Land Rover emblem off of the cargo door and spray the handle and work it, the door will open as long as it is unlocked.
Then also make sure you lube the door stay, that is the rod on the bottom of the cargo door.
Living in a dusty place or where they use salt on the roads means that the cargo doors needs lots of attention, the handle will seize like that alot, so lube it every couple of months.
I suggest you lube all locks, hinges, latches etc. every 6 months, I do mine in Jan and June, easy to remember that way.

As for not going into park, pop the trim piece off of the top of the gear shifter and tighten the nut.
You may also need to crawl under the truck and lube the shift mechanism on the transmission.

 

RE: For it to be melted like that is not a good sign

Pump must have been drawing a lot more current than normal, and connectors dirty. Real strong possiblity pump is frozen, mechanic kept trying to jump out the pump relay, etc. Lucky for you he did not burn the truck up...

 

Spike555, I saw a similar post of yours and followed that advice. It at least allowed me to get into the back. It was all seized tighter than you know what. I'll keep working on that.on the shifter front-is it possible to get to the shifter cable from inside the vehicle or do I need to remove the whole consul? I think I'm going to need to run lube down the cable to loosen it. Savannah-I've got 5 or more wires coming to this pump. There are three black that look like they are joined (bonded)- like trailer wire, then a white purple-they service the pump and are on (were)on a separate plug. There are three more fine wires that look to do fuel level & are on a second plug. From what you are saying-the three black are probably all ground-I'll meter them tomorrow, I'll check white purple for power-if the dang fools didn't pootch the relay and wiring. We've retired to a small farm community, so if it isn't John Deer green there won't be any parts here-Ill check for parts while in Red Deer tomorrow. Your help and clarification is much appreciated.

 

If your pump wires and connectors look like this you have a D2. In addition to pump and gauge, you have tank pressure. On 4 wire conector, pink/black and green/black are gauge; white/purple is pump positive volts, and black is ground.

Does the back door have a "Series II" logo below the tag? 1999 was a split year.