I just picked up a '96 Discovery for $1500 yesterday with about 100k, so yeah sort of a basket case. Im going to go through the "major service" this week. All of the gauges don't work on the cluster odometer,RPM,Speed,Fuel, and Temp, including the Cel and other associated annunciators. Only the blinker indicator and green back lighting work. I removed the cluster to check the connections and everything looked fine. Do I need to replace the cluster?
Thanks in advance!

 

Check fuse 14, in panel under steering wheel. You'll be wanting to download the set of factory shop, electrical, and owner manuals, called the RAVE, at link below. Also go to our tech section and see high miles service items, oil and filter items, and such that you will need. Once you get gauges running, do not trust the temp gauge above 9:00 position, look into an Ultra Gauge ($70) which plugs in the OBDII port, shows temp and other things in digital form, with alarm points, plus reads and resets codes.

If not blown fuse, (or fuses), may be a common ground point that serves all of that has come apart. Ground points (called earths in the manual) are shown in schematic form and there are photos of locations in the manual.

 

I agree, probably power or ground.

 

I think its either power or ground as well. Do you have any other electrical issues/maybe related?

 

Download the RAVE...it will take you though the steps...

 

You guys are great, it was fuse 14. Speaking of monitoring engine temp, I topped off the coolant as there was just a tiny bit in the expansion tank. Drove around and I must have a leak directly beneath it, however she runs slightly below the half way point on the temp gauge. (9'oclock) also it's not from one of the hoses. Is there an over flow below the reservoir?
I'm using the search function but I may need to start a couple of new threads on a few other issues. Bare with me.

Jvc head unit with a wicked speaker hiss, thinking a bad ground as I can hear the engine.
Removed ft driver window motor and found the motor runs fine but the half circle gear must have separated and it was laying at the bottom of the door, the gear teeth look normal. I think a bracket it missing.

 

No, there is no other tank below the expansion tank. I would recommend checking the hose that comes out of the expansion tank and joins up with another hose before it goes into the radiator. That one is hard to see and can leak "in hiding"! I run exactly at 9 o'clock with a brand new radiator, fan clutch ,and water pump, with a 180 stat.

 

Excellent I will check first thing in the am, I fear a cooling system overhaul is in my near future. Is there any trick to bleeding the system? I come from the bimmer world and it's a pita.

Side note, The alternator looks brand spanking new. The JVC speaker static increases/decreases with speed. both were not purchased by me.

 

To Burp the baby you:
1. Take off the expansion tank cap
2. Take off the PLUG on top of the Radiator
3. TURN ON The HEATER
4. Start engine and allow to get to temp, you will SEE the flow in the radiator as the Stat OPENS and allows floe through the top hose.
5. Top off the system using a funnel into the RADIATOR and then watch the level in the expansion tank fill to the seam in the tank.
6. Replace the various caps and MAKE SURE you do not CROSS THREAD the plug into the radiator.
All above is first hand since Monday of this week on a 1998.

 

D1 bleeding is fairly straight forward. No special tricks, D2 is a different story, but you don't have to worry about that