Alright, I'm making progress.

I cleared the codes and they haven't come back yet, so maybe that was a result of cleaning the intake. I don't know how far I've gone though, so I'll go a few more miles before calling that one good.

I got the oil changed this morning at the corner quick lube before heading to the office. 7 qts of oil and a free $10 worth of washer fluid later I drove in to the office through town. She seems to be idling smoother, with fewer dips down into the 500 rev range, and most importantly no oil pressure switch lights. Again I want to put a few more miles on before taking a breath, but it's looking good.

I'm still going to do the pressure test, I think that's important, and there's definitely some kind of leak from the front of the engine I need to check. So those are next followed by bleeding the brakes, changing the gear/trans/CDL fluids and then an alignment. But all those are going to have to wait until after I move in two weeks (still haven't started packing yet, oops).

Thanks again, everyone, for your help! I hope to have Red Rover ship shape by spring!

 

Leak around the front can be front cover gasket, cam position sensor, front crank seal (cheap part, lots of labor), and o-rings in oil lines that run off from near filter to the passenger side of the radiator. Crank shaft seal and radiator fan blowing can make oil move some distance. And oil pan gasket. Basically all good Rover parts know they are eventually supposed to leak and they race each other to see who can be first...

Some codes won't show up for two or four drive cycles.

 

Also make certain the bolts are tight on the valve covers. Those tend to loosen up over time and oil will leak and collect on the top of the water pump area. You need a 12 point 8mm deep socket, either a 1/4 inch drive or a necked down 3/8 drive will fit most of those bolt heads, four on each valve cover.

 

Argh, you just reminded me the previous owner told me point blank I needed to do the valve cover gaskets. I'll do that, clean the motor, and see where the next leak is. I'm guessing crank seal like Savannah Buzz suggested. I figure once I move I'll remove the roof rack and light bar so I can get it in the garage and then do all those things, just to be thorough.

Also remembered I need to figure out the left hand cat no-voltage issue. That needs to be done soon, I only have a month left to get emissions inspected and real plates.

Good thing I bought this as a project, I'd be livid if this were my daily driver.

 

They all have quirks, but once you work your way thru the real issues, they can be a lot of fun.

Also make sure the CDL (CENTER LOCKING DIFF) SHIFTER WORKS PROPERLY. That can freeze up from lack of use and exposure to the elements from below.

Another irritating issue can plague you at the worst times, the ignition switch can get to where it does not function smoothly and the keys will break if you try to use brute force instead of finesse.

When you get under it, check the condition of the chassis ground connections at both the battery and the starter. They can give you major problems if corroded. Oe of our forum members manufacturers the best electrical cables available if you should need a set.