If you have high idle
Before you go crazy checking TPS, IACs and the like, check the simplest, most "duh" stuff first.
Is my throttle cable/cruise control link properly adjusted to allow the throttle plate to close?
The answer was no in my case.
signed: pinkytoe "finally chillin' at 700RPMs" 69
Is my throttle cable/cruise control link properly adjusted to allow the throttle plate to close?
The answer was no in my case.
signed: pinkytoe "finally chillin' at 700RPMs" 69
I posted long ago concerning a wide open throttle condition I had when this same linkage began to bind up and not allow the throttle to return to a normal idle position.
I ended up doing away with the cruise control portion completely. My cruise control is my right foot.
I ended up doing away with the cruise control portion completely. My cruise control is my right foot.
It's not extreme but yes, it is. You should be idling around a smooth 700 rpms. If you're not and you've already done the tb/iacv cleaning, checked tps,etc., you might want to check all your cylinders. One Of them being dead from either a faulty fuel injector, spark plug or wire could cause that if nothing else. Someone else like SBm disco mike or Danny lee might be able to help you more there.
Haven't checked any of those lol, I never really thought I had high idle since most of my other cars idled at 1k even my G35. So uhhhh where to start. cleaning the (insert acronyms here). I'm guessing this isn't time to pull out the 409 and windex? 
JKJK I know it's the throttle body and Idle Air Control Valve. So just shoot them with their own cleaner and bam done? Should I spray the Maf with maf cleaner too?
(Where is the IACV any who?)

JKJK I know it's the throttle body and Idle Air Control Valve. So just shoot them with their own cleaner and bam done? Should I spray the Maf with maf cleaner too?
(Where is the IACV any who?)
Last edited by calebbo; Apr 23, 2012 at 10:43 PM.
Caleb,
Mine idles consistently at 700. That linkage can easily get nasty and not allow smooth performance. But you do not want to use a cleaner that will merely remove the crud. After a good cleaning, I advise using either WD40 or PB Blaster Spray LUBRICANT. It is a new product that PB Blaster came out with that can be used to keep any sort of mechanical linkages lubricated. I now use that on things like door lock plungers, door pull mechanism, throttle linkage, the key cylinder, and so forth.
Did you see the thread that Savannah posted regarding thoroughly cleaning all the ports on the plenum? Both he and I had found significant build-up in those ports, especially the IACV and the one directly under the main air (MAF) hose that connects from the Charcoal cannister thru the purge valve to the plenum.
After thoroughly cleaning all the black crud out of those areas, the linkage needs to be smooth operating as well so the throttle may make small adjustments easily. A dirty linkage binds rather than working smoothly.
Even though it is not designed as an adjustment, the linkage does have a nut that can be loosened or tightened to increase or decrease RPMs. If this vibrates loose, it is a potential problem.
A binding mechanism can result in the throttle sticking or even going wide open without you wanting it to!
Mine idles consistently at 700. That linkage can easily get nasty and not allow smooth performance. But you do not want to use a cleaner that will merely remove the crud. After a good cleaning, I advise using either WD40 or PB Blaster Spray LUBRICANT. It is a new product that PB Blaster came out with that can be used to keep any sort of mechanical linkages lubricated. I now use that on things like door lock plungers, door pull mechanism, throttle linkage, the key cylinder, and so forth.
Did you see the thread that Savannah posted regarding thoroughly cleaning all the ports on the plenum? Both he and I had found significant build-up in those ports, especially the IACV and the one directly under the main air (MAF) hose that connects from the Charcoal cannister thru the purge valve to the plenum.
After thoroughly cleaning all the black crud out of those areas, the linkage needs to be smooth operating as well so the throttle may make small adjustments easily. A dirty linkage binds rather than working smoothly.
Even though it is not designed as an adjustment, the linkage does have a nut that can be loosened or tightened to increase or decrease RPMs. If this vibrates loose, it is a potential problem.
A binding mechanism can result in the throttle sticking or even going wide open without you wanting it to!
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