if you introduce air into the lines the easiest way to get the air out is the manual way.

 

Well. Drove home and it seemed better. Even drove it all weekend and seemed better. This morning got the same soft pedal. It seems to get better with every bleed.

My question...
Has anyone actually fixed this type of concern by replacing the master cylinder?

 

I bled my brakes this weekend and they're still pretty squishy as well, i wouldnt mind hearing that it's a master cylinder considering the other option for me would be new calipers (ACKKK$$$$).

 

If they are good and solid after you bleed them but then back to squishy the next day I would say its the master cylinder.

 

I am thinking the same spike. Time to price out a MC. I did do the caliper test while on the rack. All 4 calipers were tight. No tire movement whatsoever. I have to consider the MC. I will let everyone know after it is replaced. Should have it replaced in the next day or so.

 

Well... did not realize everyone thought the MC was worth its weight in gold! Need to find a reasonable MC to put on. So far the lowest price I have found is $193.. Is there a rebuild kit or something?

 

Good gripes! And here i thought you'd be getting off easy.

 

http://www.roverlandparts.com/discov...-boosters.aspx

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC1284.cfm

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-3...-cylinder.aspx

I buy from these guys alot because they are local.
http://autosportsunlimited.com/used_...uto_parts.html

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories

And dont forget Craig's List.

 

LOL. If you think that is expensive try replacing the power steering gear box, or all 4 O2 sensors, or any number of items on these beasts. If you spend 193 and can avoid any other major repairs for 6 months or better consider yourself blessed.

 

Yeah, the o2 sensors suck, at 130$ per for OEM, its not a fun adventure. Thats why (even though i shouldnt) im just doing them AS they fail, as opposed to when i should theyre too expensive to do all at one time.