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The Infamus 98 Discovery PART 1

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  #21  
Old 03-27-2011, 05:02 PM
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Alright you guys. I take your advice. I'm buying a replacement rear driveshaft complete with u-joints from Roversnorth located in Vermont. The whole shaft is $199.95 +$40 shipping. I believe I can remove the old shaft and replace it with this one all on my own. Then ill see about getting afew engine flushes done. I'll CONTINUE looking for a more decent Disco in the mean time. After that I should get the tire rods and bearings (if needed) along with an alighnment. Simple things on the bottom to make the vehicle driveable again. Now I already have a new fuel filter and a new transmission filter kit, might I have those put on as well eventually?
 
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Old 03-27-2011, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ShadowMerchantBC
Alright you guys. I take your advice. I'm buying a replacement rear driveshaft complete with u-joints from Roversnorth located in Vermont. The whole shaft is $199.95 +$40 shipping. I believe I can remove the old shaft and replace it with this one all on my own. Then ill see about getting afew engine flushes done. I'll CONTINUE looking for a more decent Disco in the mean time. After that I should get the tire rods and bearings (if needed) along with an alighnment. Simple things on the bottom to make the vehicle driveable again. Now I already have a new fuel filter and a new transmission filter kit, might I have those put on as well eventually?
Now we are getting somewhere.
Yes you can install the new driveshaft, 8 bolts and nuts, 4 on each end.
Make sure you chock the wheels, put the transfer case in neutral and then you can spin the propshaft to reach each nut easier.

Yes go ahead and install your fuel and trans filter.
Those will be good projects to do while you wait on getting the propshaft.
The transmission takes DexronIII, start by adding 5 qts, then idle the engine and shift through all the gears and then add more as needed until full.
Then check the fluid level again the next day after it has sat all night.
If all you do is a drain and fill (no trans filter replacement) then start with 4 qts.
 
  #23  
Old 03-27-2011, 06:12 PM
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Thanks much. I'm reluctant to bother with the transmission filter on my own, due to the location of the pan itself. It sits directly above the cross member and part of the exhaust may be in the way. I have changed a filter before in my old jeep but the transmission pan was fully exposed and easy to take off. Just take all the bolts off. I'll take another look at the setup and see if there is another way but it does not seem to hopeful. Worst case ill have to take it to DAP LR specialist.

As for the fuel filter I think I can manage, just need to know where the corresponding fuel fuse is under the hood. I read that a specific fuse under the hood had to be removed prior to doing any work on the fuel filter. Can you give me a step by step on going about replacing the fuel filter?
 
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:18 PM
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Yes the trans filter is a huge PIA, dont bother with the trans filter since you wont be keeping this truck, save the filter and just do a drain and fill on the trans fluid.
All DI's use the same filter and I think the DII uses that one as well.

As for the fuel filter, dont worry about pulling the fuse, I never do.
Just loosen the old filter, some fuel will leak out, once it stops leaking finish removing the filter and install the new one.
The filter can go in backwards so make sure you install it correctly.
 
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:50 PM
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Alright that works for me. I already drained and added fresh fluid to the transmission during my first attempt at replacing the filter.... man was I PO when I found out that i had to put all the bolts back on lol. Oh well. I will try working on the fuel filter tomarrow then. Ill keep you posted. Thanks again.
 
  #26  
Old 03-27-2011, 09:41 PM
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is your driveshaft broke? it looks like you just need some u joints, if that is the case $30 for u joints and if you can't do them or find someone to help, any shop should be able to replace them if you bring them the shaft. I can't imagine anyone charging more than an hour shop time.
 
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Old 03-27-2011, 09:57 PM
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Can't be sure exactly to what extent the damage is. All I know is that the piece of the shaft that actualy holds the ujoints is damaged in such a way that the ujoint itself is allowed to slip out of the intended socket. So I guess if I can determine what that end piece is called maybe I can get away with just replacing that piece and saving a lot of cash. As for ujoints, I'm not worried at all. I'm getting them out of the roversnorth magazine. And I know how to install them so it should not be a big deal. Like I said though, if I get the replacement shaft, its all ready to go and comes with ujoints already installed. Just needs some grease.
 
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:19 PM
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take it out and take a few more pics of it, from what I saw in the other pic it looks like you just had a serious u joint failure. and to make it easier for you and everyone else, don't start any more threads about different problems with the truck, keep them all in one thread, this will keep all the info together. people will be more willing to help if its easy for them.

looking back at the pic it looks like your driveshaft is fine, it just looks like the end of the u joint has slipped or broke out the cup, probably due to the fact the needle bearings had decintagrated leaving too much play. here is what I would do, take it off, take it to a small shop and just ask them if they can rebuild it, and ask them how much they would charge if YOU brought the u joints.
 

Last edited by tweakrover; 03-28-2011 at 12:32 PM.
  #29  
Old 03-28-2011, 01:05 PM
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Alright ill stick with this thread for all mechanical issues regarding my 98. By the way I think the piece I'm talking about is called a "coupler" and its been pretty damaged. I'll take off the shaft tomarrow since I have that day off, then ill take afew more pics and upload them here.

Question: if your rear driveshaft, the coupler or the u-joints are damaged in any way, and the vehicle is driven say 800 miles thereafter... Is it likely that the damage will manifest into something worse? If damages start out small, could they potentially damage the rest if the shaft? Because like I said before, knowing only that the u-joints were getting worn, I made the 700+ mile trip to pa then back again. So by the time I made it home my vehicle was vibrating violently regardless of any speed I was traveling! At this point I parked the rig in the garage and have not driven it sense. But it just seems like perhaps the damage went further. Just a though. Yes ill contact DAP ad just see how much they would charge to rebuild my driveshaft.
 
  #30  
Old 03-28-2011, 03:51 PM
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well I imagine if you drove it with it like it was pictured it was making a hell of a rattle but I wouldn't assume for sure did any other damage, do not drive it anymore like that!!!! also I would count on doing the front drivshaft u joints also. If the back got that bad you know noone has maintained thr front either. You are extremely lucky that that shaft didn't fly apart destroying everything in its path. the cup that the u joint sits in is part of the ujoint, watch this and you will get a better idea of what part is what and if the parts you need are still intact. YouTube - Replacing a Rear Axle U Joint : Preparing & Installing a U Joint onto a Drive Shaft this guy is useing a hammer but you can see what parts are what
 


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