You are running the fan shroud right? And the filler gaskets between Rad and Rad support?

 

I should have stated that the distilled water with water wetter additive has better heat transfer than coolant/water. What is the limit here IMHO is how fast the radiator is getting rid of the heat. Adding coolant will make that slower.

At this stage, boiling point is not the issue. Radiator sludge or internal coating is suspect.

If you repeated the same driving route, in the late evening or night when it is much cooler.... the engine is pulling as hard, the water pump is spinning the same speed, the cooling fluid is the same, thermostat is the same, but if temp way different (lower) then cooler air over radiator is all that changed. To me that points at rad. Of course, the IR measure will tell the tale.

The orientation of the stat steam bleed hole could be an issue, and you may not have heard bubbles in the heater core because in early Disco's there is an on/off heat valve.

 

I am totally with you, I way prefer Diesel as it's just as fast, get's a lot better gas mileage and they seem to be more supported here. The only trick is there's been a 2 year Diesel shortage here and so you get these huge lines at the gas station. With regular gas I can pull right up to the pump. I think my next rover will definitely be Diesel though!

I'll check the timing, I will say lately I think I am running rich ( I smell gas sometimes ) but I need to double check this. I am pretty confident with the work on the head gasket and the WP but it's worth looking into for sure. I'll keep you guys posted. It's a national holiday here now so hard to get a hold of parts.

As far as the coolant I haven't seen water wetter here but I'll look around. I'll probably end up doing distilled and regular coolant and see how it goes. It's quite normal in Egypt for folks to fill their radiators with the garden hose which makes me laugh esp when their radiators are full of rust etc.

 

Yes and Yes. The old owner was the king of work-arounds and shortcuts so I am a bit shocked but I have both installed.

 

I'd love to get my hands on some water wetter, I fly back to the US but they are strict on carrying flammable materials - I heard this was alcohol based so it maybe flammable. I'll probably do a coolant / distilled water mix once I figure out the issue.

So the radiator was re-cored so the side tanks and the fins appear to be really clean. Inspection of the hoses and the stat housing doesn't show any major goo. I actually do have a little surface rust from the PO running regular water through the system. When I replaced the WP it was quite rusty and corroded. But I am going to flush regardless and use your vinegar idea and see if it helps. I just think perhaps the re-core was done improperly, it has 4 tubes but it may be defective or have some leak that I haven't been able to detect.

The time I had tried this the engine was still warm from driving earlier in the day, I'll try to test this out. I didn't spend a lot of the re-core (labor here is very inexpensive) and so I am going to do the temperature check but will probably order a radiator is I see even a bit of difference in temp.


I found the bleed hole at 9 o'clock, changed it to 12 o'clock and it helped but still overheating. Glad you mentioned the heater core, it's by-passed with a loop setup and not stubbed. You almost never need heat here and so they are very quick to bypass it when the heater core has issues.

Gonna pick up an IR thermo tomorrow, hopefully the simple one the local radio shack sells will do the trick...

 

Thought i would share my water temp gauge install. I think I am going to have to purchase a pod of some type and move it up to the top of the dash. For now I can peek at it without taking my eyes off the road for too long.

The 2nd picture is just to show how darn hot it's been here this summer.

 

X2 on previous advice!!

but rebuilt radiators don't always do the trick

I didn't see anyone ask about your expansion tank cap. May be over or under venting.
and
Be sure you have the updated (white) expansion tank, (not Black),

Good luck.

 

Yes, you can zip tie a paper towel to the overflow line and detect if coolant is being vented while driving.

Oh so cool - short wave....

 

Can I find the overflow line in the RAVE manual or can you point me in the right direction? I'd like to try this, the paper towel test and the IR thermo test today.

 

On the D1 the vent is actually just from the cap, so take colored paper towel, like blue, etc., and zip tie all around the coolant cap. In your heat, the small leak might be dried up quickly. Litmus paper works, many electronic devices have a piece inside to detect immersion during the warranty period.

As for cooling system booster, the water wetter is a glycol ether mix, with this data from their MSDS listing:

DiIsopropyl Alcohol Ether 1-40% CAS #25265-71-8
Tri Isopropyl Alcohol DiEther 1-40% CAS #24800-44-0
Sodium Molybdate 2-10% CAS #10102-40-6
Tolyltriazole 1-3% CAS #29385-43-1

PolySiloxane Polymer

I would be surprised if someone has not recognized the sales potential of such a product in Egypt. Check auto parts stores and truck stops. Maybe a different brand name.

In the US and other places, race cars are not allowed to run antifreeze coolant, because a spill or venting makes the track slippery. So they use the water wetter products and distilled water.