Hello All, I have a 98 Disco 1, 92k miles, abs light on and service engine light on. Even with this it has been running great for years. Recently it has been acting up. It starts up fine normally but on a few occasions it will not. Ex. Get in in the am starts up fine no problem, then stop somewhere for gas or store get back in and wont start. It acts like it wants to turn over but wont stay running. Keep trying to start it and maybe 5 to 10 mins later after trying it off and on it starts with no problem. And runns good the rest of the day. Note this does not happen all the time. Battery good, Just got an Oil Change. Went to Auto Zone and no codes pop up etc. Any Ideas?

 

Acts like it wants to turn over? Do you mean it runs but is barely idling fast enough to stay running?

I would start with the basics since you know it is capable of running fine. Check fuel pressure, inspect for vac leaks, clean the IAC, etc.

 

The service engine soon is not a trouble light, it is a emissions reminder, there is a relay behind the passenger kick panel, remove the relay and the light goes out.
The check engine light is the one that gives you codes.
Like Higgs said, you need to start with the basics, new plugs and wires, clean the throttle body and PCV and idle air control valve.
DIY under $150 and half a days work.

 

So like I said when you first get into it, it starts fine no problem. Then if I where to stop and get back in it wont start at all. It acts like it wants to but will not completely turn over. Went to Auto Zone and they checked the battery. They said it was fine. Although alot of ppl that I talk to seems to think its the battery just by what Ive told you guys. Not really sure what it is. Like I said it only has about 93k roughly and has ran like a champ until now. So ya think I should change the plugs etc? Not sure exactally what you guys thought i should do. Need help.......

 

Let's try a little more detective work. If battery is good enough to crank it and run cold, and terminals are clean and tight - should be OK. But like they said, if it won't spin the engine, battery terminals, the ground terminal for negative battery to the frame (down by bottom of radiator), or terminals on starter could be loose/corroded.

When the term "turn over" is used, it means the engine is being turned over by the starter at a normal cranking speed, you can see serpantine belt moving. A bad crank position sensor won't tell the engine computer this is happening, so fuel and spark can be witheld. The computer has to see engine turning at about 80 rpm to continue applying fuel.

When it warms up and won't re-start, but does turn over, until it has cooled off, that is a classic sign for a bad crank shaft position sensor. If you have a spare spark plug (they are not much money), carry it along. Next time this happens, attach it to a plug wire and try starting while some one checks for sparks. No spark is strong indicator of bad CKP sensor. You can also "speed up" the cooling cycle by pouring cold water on the sensor. The sensor is like $80. It is a PITA to install, and every little nut and spacer has to go back on in same sequence. Here are some pages for the CKP, it is sligtly different in a D1, but same PITA place.

Note: spare spark plug should lay on mainifold for testing, it is considered bad form to have SWMBO or GF hold the plug while you crank engine.

 

One the other hand if it doesn't crank when warm it's likely to be oil between starter and engine block. You'll enjoy cleaning that as much as replacing a crank sensor.......

 

Hi, I have the same issue.

Normally the engine starts without any issues at all. If I drive fro about 40km, and then stop for petrol/gas with the engine stopped for 5 minutes, it won't start.

If I wait for 30 minutes, it starts fine. So far the following have been checked / replaced: Cylinder head, cylnder head gasket, alternator, battery, starter motor.

Any thoughts?

 

Same response. The CKP sensor "opens" when it gets too hot. Underway, the surface of the block is being cooled. Stop, and engine surface temp jumps up, then cools off. Drive to work, park for the day, you don't notice it. Stop for a soda, and you'll be late. Test for spark when this happens. The potential for grease insulated starter can be trouble shot with a battery jumper cable from (-) battery post to starter frame. The big silver connector on the starter is the other end of the (+) battery cable. Must be clean and tight, as well as the solenoid wire.

As far as starter removal, that is a fun job with several extensions, work from front of axle, spray out the allen head bolt to get all the way to the bottom of it, and throw in a wobble socket.

 

Another possibility is your starter is going bad. This happened to me on a previous vehicle. Cold start: everything's fine, starts right up & runs like a champ. Hot start: starter overheats, solenoid craps out, engine won't turn over, car gets cursed at and called rude names. No idea how accessible the starter is in a LR, but if you can reach it with a 2x4 and a hammer, a few taps might loosen it up. Or, at least, vent some of your frustration.

 

Very true, I needed to make another point - the CKP sensor is only at issue if the engine spins over nromally but does not fire up and run. Slow or no spin is more starter/electrical. It is also important to note that and engine turning without spark will sound different than one where plugs are firing. Access is no problem, removal can be - see above pix, note header is removed.