OK. Good photos, J. Stop pulling on those fuses! To remove those big fuses, simply undo the screws, they do not pull out.

ACROSS any good fuses should be nearly zero volts, maybe a few tenths with current flowing, but AT the fuses (to ground) should be 12 volts (battery voltage, more when alternator is charging). If the fuse is blown, then ACROSS could be either zero (no load switched on) or 12 V (load is switched on).

If the inertia switch was triggered, then you will hear it click to reset when you press it (R side firewall up high engine bay).

 

So when I turn the key to the on position, there should be 12 volts across them? Or only in the slots the little fuses to the left go in? I’m awful with electrical anything 🧨😫. Explain electricity like I’m five please.


Also are the fusible links 9/16 or 13/16? I’ve found them locally but I can’t figure out if it matters. I’m assuming based on length and size they are 13/16?

 

So when I turn the key to the on position, there should be 12 volts across them? Or only in the slots the little fuses to the left go in? I’m awful with electrical anything 🧨😫. Explain electricity like I’m five please.


Also are the fusible links 9/16 or 13/16? I’ve found them locally but I can’t figure out if it matters. I’m assuming based on length and size they are 13/16?
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Many fuses are sourced directly from the battery. All the fuses in the engine bay fuse box are that way. There are other fuses and fuse boxes that are sourced through relays when the key is turned: Position I = accessories, Position II = run position, Position III = start position. A relay is simply an ON/OFF switch controlled by electricity. So a key closes a switch that turns on relays. Then big fuses can feed many small fuses. Most of the small fuses are located in the driver's footwell, but there are other locations described in the Electrical Test Manual (ETM).

So, to get on the same page electrically speaking, ACROSS means from one side of the fuse to the other. All good fuses should measure near zero from one side to the other all the time. Only a bad fuse (open circuit) can measure 12 V across. The word AT means to measure from one side of the fuse to ground (the chassis is grounded). All good fuses which are sourced from the battery will read 12 V at both sides. So, all those fuses in the engine bay fuse box should read 12 V to ground at both sides. A bad fuse can read 12 V at one side and zero at the other.

By the way, the ETM for '97 Discos shows all the fuel pump circuit on page 3 of section A3 (SFI V8 NAS), including relay and inertial switch. The manual includes several versions of Rover, so make sure to use the correct section. SFI means Sequential Fuel Injection. NAS means North American something (Sector?). Sometimes NAS wiring is a bit different, and noted on the diagrams.

 

I did confirm the VIN. She’s a 96. So it’ll be a passion project because she’s the same age as me. Born in the same year haha. Thank you. I will order new fusible links, and then try to check the fuel pump manually with a battery to see if it’s bad.

 

Good plan. My youngest daughter is a 96er too. I often need to remind her not to be so impulsive.

My '96 is very reliable now, but on the 5 block drive home, she died five times. Bought it for $800, then put in around $3000, but could have done it for half that. That was in 2013.

 

I gave $800 for this one too. The lady would not budge, she kept saying “I see them camel trophy trucks are worth a ton so I know this one is too” which I tried to explain this was not a camel trophy truck. Regardless, I wanted it as an off roader. Better than letting it die.

O, by the way. The fuel pump is definitely bad, I’m draining the gas tank, and replacing the fuel pump. But, I still need to figure out why I’m not getting 12 volts to the fuel pump plug.



Will order a fuel pump when my new debit card arrives.

 

Remember, 12 V at the fuel pump is only on for a few seconds after the key is turned and the engine is not running. 12 V should be there continuously only when the engine is running. This happens because the ECM controls the fuel pump relay, so check if the relay is turning on and off (located a bit behind the engine bay fuse box) when the key is turned. The electrical diagram for that relay shows a transistor symbol, and ID Z207, so it might be solid state vs mechanical, I don't know for sure.

When you get a new pump, measure and record the ohms for the pump motor. The ohm value might be useful during troubleshooting the circuit. I'll help you figure out if the wires are good or not. That gas looks nasty.

 

Thank you so so much! I will get started learning the wiring circuit tomorrow, and continue cleaning. May be a few days before I’m able to order a new pump. I’ll make random additions and questions in the mean time. Thanks more than you know for the continued help.

 

When you order a new pump, you should look for the 'non-AEL' version. If your truck is a '96, it is an early one given the radio antenna on the front fender. Take a pic of the engine bay and post it. Hopefully you have a round canister near the coolant reservoir.

Soak the threads of the fuel filter with your favorite rust buster...PB Blaster, Kroil, etc. When you replace it, put a small amount of anti-seize on the threads and it will be quite easy to do next time.

Locate the inertia switch on the firewall (passenger side) and make sure you have electrical continuity across it. In a pinch, you can jump it.