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Kick down cable

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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 02:07 PM
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Default Kick down cable

So I am getting ready to tackle this. Have had the cable in my toolbox for about 3 months and am finally building up enough courage to tear into the transmission... again.

Anyone who has done this have any words of advice or tips?
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 03:15 PM
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It's dirty down there. Good luck.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by LRD2&ME
It's dirty down there. Good luck.
So.. Noone has done one of these? I guess everyone elses cable is in perfect working order?
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ColoDisco
So.. Noone has done one of these? I guess everyone elses cable is in perfect working order?
If I had a auto tranny in mine, I'd do it and a write up just for you!
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 05:22 PM
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If you can wait until tomorrow morning. I have been meaning to crawl under and check mine out. Does seem to kick a bit when I shift. I can give you some feedback.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 10:11 AM
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It is very difficult/impossible to re-fit the cable with the valve body in situe, if you do remove the valve body first mark the location front/back as the correct position is critical. Only remove the M6 bolts, ie the ones with the larger heads. DO NOT REMOVE ANY M5 BOLT.
When re-fitted it is possible to move the change points a little, start point is to set the cable so you get 'forced- kickdown' as the throttle presses into the carpet. Then loosen the cable to shift earlier or tighten to shift later, no more than 2 or 3 mm each way. The transmission end needs to be attached to a cam inside the transmission. The valve body needs to be removed.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 04:24 PM
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Doesn't the RAVE address it?
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 04:38 PM
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Just out of curiosity I did a search on "kickdown cable" and found this thread:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...trouble-15358/

Might be worth checking it out before you tear into the tranny.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris-bob
If I had a auto tranny in mine, I'd do it and a write up just for you!
Once again proving that Chris-bob is a douchebag!
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by LRD2&ME
It is very difficult/impossible to re-fit the cable with the valve body in situe, if you do remove the valve body first mark the location front/back as the correct position is critical. Only remove the M6 bolts, ie the ones with the larger heads. DO NOT REMOVE ANY M5 BOLT.
When re-fitted it is possible to move the change points a little, start point is to set the cable so you get 'forced- kickdown' as the throttle presses into the carpet. Then loosen the cable to shift earlier or tighten to shift later, no more than 2 or 3 mm each way. The transmission end needs to be attached to a cam inside the transmission. The valve body needs to be removed.
Absolutely invaluable information. Thank you!

Danny, it does address it, but very vaguely. IE does not say to remove the valve body but as I see it the cable comes in through the top of the transmission housing. It is hard to even see the connecting point. This clued me into the fact there might be more to this than just taking off the pan and filter, plus anyone who has done one can give me simple instructions rather than me deciphering what the Queen intended!

I am sure that my cable is bad as it is broken where the threaded section attaches to the bracket prior to reaching the throttle body. I know this as I have it rigged to work right now. Looks like it is going to have to wait until after my camping trip into the mountains next week. I will take pics and try and document this for those in need next time.
 
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