Hello all, thanks to the great advice up here over the past week I've saved hundreds doing most of my own work. Ive got one last issue left (and the brakes, but that's just because I don't have time) that I'm taking her into an independent rover tech around here and want to make certain they don't try ripping me.

Basically when I shift into reverse there's a slight bang I hear and slightly feel. Shifting isn't hard so don't think is the transmission, and it doesnt happen when the car is cold, but as I'm driving if I go to park somewhere or something after driving I hear it. Im going to try and change my t case oil before I drop it off later today or tomorrow to see if that solves it, but if not does anyone have any ideas?

I'm thinking it could possibly be the u joint, and besides that I couldn't really think of anything but the x case. I haven't greased everything down there yet. May just have them do it while its there if its not too much more since I may not have time this week, but besides these things i can't really think of anything else as shifting isn't problematic At all.

In positive news, my iacv and throttle body are clean, oil, tranny and ps fluid are good too. and she's been running much better since

 

What you are describing is typical drive line noise.
Change the t-case fluid and use a 85w-140 gear lube and that will help it alot.
There is slack in the gears that are in the transfer case, when shifting from drive to reverse they slam together.
It does not happen when cold because the fluid is thick enough to take up the slack, once the gear lube gets hot and thins out then the gears make noise.
Using the heavier gear lube will help, but the cure is a new t-case.
Change the fluid once a year and live with it until the t-case explodes.

 

Also you can lessen the noise by shifting into neutral just before you stop, then stop and shift into reverse.

 

Wow spike thanks so much man you probably just saved me hundreds. I can live with it for now if the heavier oil will help lessen the noise, and in the meantime save up some cash for a solid used t case. How hard is repulsing a new box yourself?

I'm thinking of just bleeding and changing the brakes and t case oil myself but with my schedule coming up I feel like I may not get it done soon and Id rather get it done sooner rather than later. I may still take it to this independent tech just to have them do those three things, hiw much do you think they'll run me? I figure somewhere around $350ish wouldn't be too bad to save myself the time and not let it get any worse if that's all it would be.

 

it takes about 15 mins to bleed brakes...if you can't do it yourself then pay somebody..even if you get ripped off..its better than getting into an accident. BTW you can pick up a vacuum brake bleeding kit online for @ $25 with a case or at an auto parts store for @ $30 without a case.

 

Dont worry about the t-case, change the fluid, use the heavier stuff and let it go.
It may last a week it may last the rest of your life.
Mine has had that exact same noise ever since I bought it, over 40,000 miles ago.
It is worse in the summer when it is above 90*F and I have been driving for a long time, no clunk at all in the winter unless I drive for over 2 hours.

Quick story about t-case clunk, I used to drive cement truck, it was 8 wheel drive with a locking t-case just like out trucks have.
It clunked when shifting from drive to reverse, it has clunked ever since 1975, it is still clunking.
Granted those t-cases are beefier than ours, but they also have 80,000lbs wearing on them all day everyday.
The point is, this type of driveline is noisy, reliable, but noisy.
Its when it stops making noise or the noise changes you get worried.

 

Alright cool man, very rarely do I drive around town for longer than 30 minutes or so so it never gets too bad, and it seems like it tops off at a certain degree of sound which isn't too loud so the thicker oil should be fine. That's just a suck drain plug removal and use the filler plug down there? Guess I need to go get another filler pump.

Nitetrain, thanks for the info man, I'll probably do it myself with the help of a friend. At the same time I'm thinking about just buying the brakes and roots and taking her to a local shop to have the brakes bled and changed if it's not too much because I agree, I don't want to ride around with questionable brakes.

 

Called one or the techs, they tried quoting me 650 to change the t case oil and do brakes (just flush and pad change, no rotors). Figured I'd have them do it while I was there for the brakes, but I'm not paying damn near 700 for that, might as well get to them myself.

Are the same brake pads recommended in the rave still available locally or will any do for the car? I believe my rotors are still fine but Ill check them when I go to do my brakes and pray to the lr gods.

 

Go to the Rovers North website. You can get their set for 100 bucks an axle for pods and rotors. I have them on my 97 and they are great. You can do it all yourself, it's not that difficult.

You have to disassemble the hubs completely to remove and replace the rotors. Get new wheel bearings aw well, they are in there. You may get away with cleaning and repacking yours if they are good. If so, keep the new ones as spares. They will eventually come in handy. You also need a special adapter to remove the Lock Nuts for the hubs. Both RN and AB have all that stuff. I normally use RN.

 

If you need rotors too then do like Danny said, if you just need pads then go to your local parts store and buy whatever your budget allows.
I have AutoZone middle of the road pads on my truck.