Leaky oil-cooler line.
#11
OK, did the ghetto-repair on the oil cooler line and guess what...it works! Cost was $10.56 (I splurged and bought new hose-clamps @ $2.99).
You won't believe this though...now the other one is leaking.
I think this one actually may have been the culprit to begin with. Oh well, at least I know what to do now.
Here are some photos of my handi-work:
You won't believe this though...now the other one is leaking.
I think this one actually may have been the culprit to begin with. Oh well, at least I know what to do now.
Here are some photos of my handi-work:
Now can you give us some more insight?
What size hose?
How many feet?
Coolant hose or what?
#12
Wonder who started that one... **me** I did that last week and went to school the next day (cold oil tends to not drip as much) well when the Rover warmed up and I pulled into the parking lot my Disco was dripping so much that the principal called my name over the intercom so I would go to the office... I am a good kid and was shocked that I was called to the office... When I went in there, he said "uhh you better go check your car oil, I believe its leaked out... I laughed and said well you know why the British don't build tvs? They can't figure a way to make them leak oil" He was speechless..... I politely said thank you and returned to class.
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mr4x4 (10-12-2017)
#13
#14
Info as requested Spike:
Hose: Weatherhead 1/2" (12.7 mm) H10108 350 PSI (2.41 Mpa).
Length: 18" (per hose).
Obviously overkill on the pressure but better than heater hose, etc. Here's what I found regarding the construction and specifics of the hose itself:
H101 GENERAL PURPOSE HOSE
Hose: Weatherhead 1/2" (12.7 mm) H10108 350 PSI (2.41 Mpa).
Length: 18" (per hose).
Obviously overkill on the pressure but better than heater hose, etc. Here's what I found regarding the construction and specifics of the hose itself:
H101 GENERAL PURPOSE HOSE
- Rubber Cover
- Applications include low pressure air, fuel, oil, water and diesel fuel lines.
- Gasohol or diesohol fuel containing more than 10% alcohol may reduce hose life.
- MSHA accepted.
- Temperature Range: -40° to 212° F.
- Hose Construction:
- Inner Tube: Nitrile
- Reinforcement: 1 fiber braid
- Cover: Neoprene
- Hose Inside Diameter: 1/2
- Hose Outside Diameter: 3/4
- Maximum Working Pressure: 350 psi
- Minimum Burst Pressure: 1,400 psi
- Minimum Bend Radius: 5"
Last edited by hh65flyer; 12-14-2011 at 11:38 AM.
#15
My HS is very small (less than 50 kids per grade.) I know EXACTLY who drives what car and everyone knows that I drive a rover.
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mr4x4 (10-12-2017)
#16
Replaced my other oil-cooler line today. It was quite a bit more messy as it connects to the lower end of the rad so about a half of a QT went everywhere, caught most of it with the pan.
The only problem now is you can't fit the nice solid line seperator between the two lines on the lower end because the tubing now covers the area where the clamp goes. Just an update for anyone else deciding to tackle this in this manner. I'll try to post a pic later.
The only problem now is you can't fit the nice solid line seperator between the two lines on the lower end because the tubing now covers the area where the clamp goes. Just an update for anyone else deciding to tackle this in this manner. I'll try to post a pic later.
#18
IMHO it would be the same PSI as seen by the oil light switch:
from the RAVE:
from the RAVE:
Oil drawn through the centrally located steel gauze strainer in the sump, is pumped under pressure through oil cooler located in the lower half of the main coolant radiator. The cooled oil then passes through the filter, before being distributed from the main gallery via drillings, to the various components in the engine.
So yep, back that line off the radiator and you should get 30 - 50 psi of oil. The only question is does the Royal Purple taste like Jim Jones Koolaid?
So yep, back that line off the radiator and you should get 30 - 50 psi of oil. The only question is does the Royal Purple taste like Jim Jones Koolaid?
#19
Join Date: Mar 2010
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It sounds like his hose selection is fine, but I would be somewhat concerned even with the double clamps as to whether that style clamp can stand up to 50 psi. I would check on them closely for a while. But if it does pop a leak, at least you got the idiot light to warn you, that and the sudden clatter of valves, followed by a knocking engine noise..........
But at least you did save some money doing it that way.
But at least you did save some money doing it that way.
Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 12-15-2011 at 03:46 PM.
#20
It's only been a few drives but so far, dry as a bone. I will be checking them often. I'm also going to fashion some way of keeping them seperated so they don't rub each other, especially since I had to remove the factory seperator. Also want to make sure they stay far away from the exhaust manifold too.
I think for added security one could probably barb or flare the ends slightly with the proper flaring tool (which I do not have unfortunately).
I think for added security one could probably barb or flare the ends slightly with the proper flaring tool (which I do not have unfortunately).