I used white lithium grease, and purchased a new regulator. I would suggest changing the rollers as it seems to be a pretty common failure point with the Discos. As for the plastic pop rivets, I spread the unbroken ones out evenly around the door. Next time I order from BA I'll buy a bunch, that said the door panel is still flush and firm. Also put some grease on that semi-circular gear that the motor attaches to and use a flat head screw driver as close to the rivets when popping the panel. Simple, should take about an hour. One more thing, you'll need the window 2-3inches up to access the bolts on the bottom of the window.

 

Sounds good, thanks. Any suggestions on replacement rollers? Iv read a couple of threads that mention that but never really planned on doing it.

 

Not sure either as I bought a new regulator, at least use grease. Please keep updating your brake issue, I have a similar issue.

 

Ok, well, I replaced the brake booster yesterday (wasnt bad at all).......but didnt fix my problem. So I started looking a little harder and finally pinpointed where the "hissing" (air leak) was coming from when I pressed the brake. Its coming from the piece that plugs into the brake light switch.....its the piece that the airline (that runs thru the fire wall) connects to. Anybody know what its called or where I can find one? Anybody know if that means its bad or do I have a problem somewhere else thats causing to much back pressure? I can wrap it with electrical tape and pretty much stop the noise, but I hate doing crap like that.....especially when Im not sure of whats going on.

 

That hose hooked to your brake switch runs to the cruise control, it is what shuts off the cruise when you push the brake pedal, pull the hose off and look for splits in the hose, This vacuum shutoff strategy was eliminated in the D2 by going to an electric shutoff.

 

Sweet!....so if i dont need the cruise control can i just remove that hose altogether?

 

If you plug the hose after taking it off. Yes Just remember to disconnect the cruise control so you don't forget and engage it. With that hose disconnected the brake pedal will no longer cancel the cruise control.

 

Thanks man!! wish I would have looked/listened a little closer before i bought and installed the brake booster. Thanks again!

 

[quote=Bkreutz;330239]If you plug the hose after taking it off. Yes Just remember to disconnect the cruise control so you don't forget and engage it. With that hose disconnected the brake pedal will no longer cancel the cruise control.[/quote]


Not so sure that I agree with your rationale there. Since that vacumn hose goes to a tee with the cc vacumn pump coming to the front of the tee and the other leg going to the bellows on the cruise control itself I do not think the cruise control can activate if you just remove the tube and leave it open.

Too bad you wasted the money on the brake booster when it was just a leak in the tube. Better to state what the problem sysptoms are andd let others help you diagnose than to purchase parts only to find out that what you replaced is good.

 

You're right, I always plug vacuum hoses when I disconnect them, what I was thinking is that with the hose plugged, the cruise would still operate but it would be without the vacuum dump valve on the brake switch. I guess you could leave it disconnected but then you could possibly hear the vacuum when driving (this is assuming that this is the source of the noise).