little dicovery 1 tech help, please
#1
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Today I bought my second land rover, a 1996 Discovery 1, 13700 miles. Its got a few problems though. The cruise doesnt work and the anti lock kicks on all the time. Im assuming its the fact that the previous owner put on one new tire so the different diameter is trowing off the abs and cruise sensors, i hope. It also chugs between 2000 and 3000 rpms and the check engine light is on. Anyone have any knowledge that would help? Not sure about prior work done to the vehicle. Thanks
#2
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1. Cruise uses vac control and speed sense from a vehicle speed sensor on the drive train, however in a D2 that signal is computed from ABS sensors. Usual problem is vac hose off, T near firewall. Vac is from pump behind front driver side head lamp, not engine vac
2. ABS has a fuse under hood that you can unplug to kill pump for diagnostics.
3. Check engine light should be easy to have codes read at an auto parts store. But don't use their "text message", write down the number, Rover codes don't always match what American code reader companies believe it should be.
4. Would read codes before chug repair; could be lots of things. Post codes back here for several opinions.
5. In our tech area you'll find lists of things to do to new to you Discos. Also in my signature you'll see link to a site that will download the RAVE, the factory set of shop manuals and owners manuals.
2. ABS has a fuse under hood that you can unplug to kill pump for diagnostics.
3. Check engine light should be easy to have codes read at an auto parts store. But don't use their "text message", write down the number, Rover codes don't always match what American code reader companies believe it should be.
4. Would read codes before chug repair; could be lots of things. Post codes back here for several opinions.
5. In our tech area you'll find lists of things to do to new to you Discos. Also in my signature you'll see link to a site that will download the RAVE, the factory set of shop manuals and owners manuals.
#3
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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When you first get one, you basically need to assume that it needs everything brought up to date.
In addition to what is on the list Savannah referred to, I would also include a thorough cleaning of the entire air intake system from the filter box all the way to the plenum.
1. Carefully clean MAF, there are details on here on other threads.
2. Carefully remove the IACV, sit it aside and thoroughly clean the ports on the plenum including the one from the Purge Valve. Savannah had a recent picture on a thread regarding that.
3. Seafoam Induction Cleaning - Lots of pros and cons regarding the use of Seafoam and the positive vs negative affects.
4. Pull each plug paying attention to which cyliunder it came from and compare the "As-is" conditon of each. Are they all the same appearance? What do their conditions indicate?
5. Check condition of the coolant to determine what it tells you.
6. Drain the oil and see what condition it indicates. Also be careful what oil you choose to refill it with. Consensus is Shell Rotella T 15W40. No 5w, 10w is also a little light.
In addition to what is on the list Savannah referred to, I would also include a thorough cleaning of the entire air intake system from the filter box all the way to the plenum.
1. Carefully clean MAF, there are details on here on other threads.
2. Carefully remove the IACV, sit it aside and thoroughly clean the ports on the plenum including the one from the Purge Valve. Savannah had a recent picture on a thread regarding that.
3. Seafoam Induction Cleaning - Lots of pros and cons regarding the use of Seafoam and the positive vs negative affects.
4. Pull each plug paying attention to which cyliunder it came from and compare the "As-is" conditon of each. Are they all the same appearance? What do their conditions indicate?
5. Check condition of the coolant to determine what it tells you.
6. Drain the oil and see what condition it indicates. Also be careful what oil you choose to refill it with. Consensus is Shell Rotella T 15W40. No 5w, 10w is also a little light.
#6
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Please don't pay to have your codes read. A lot of shops charge $50 - $90 for that. Just stop by any national chain auto parts store, and they will read for free. The reader plugs into the OBDII port under the dash, no screwdriver needed. Write down the code numbers. Some readers have software that "guesstimates" what the problem is, and the same code on a Toyota might be different on a Rover. Post the codes back here for help, or search for them yourself in the RAVE, the factory shop manual set (free downlaods below). Once you have decided to keep the beast, you may want to look at an Ultra Gauge, a combination code reader, live data reader, and digital display with reminder alarms you can program. For about what you would pay to have it read once. See http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...lFPa0i5lvSq27g
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