Loss of Power
Vehicle Speed Sensor. Located Near Transfercase.
I had a similar problem once last year but I was driving, pressed down good to pass and as soon as I went around it did it, kind of made me a bit nervous because of the situation, but before I could panic it all went back to normal and has never done it since. I figured it must be either an emmisions related thing or some kind of hiccup in the ignition system? anyways I always wait until it happens again to worry to much and it hasn't. kind of like my CEL coming on, it came on and went off all summer long last year for an O2 sensor, then while it was off for a few days I took my emissions test and passed, then it came on and went off one more time and has not been on since (at least not until last week, then same thing on and off) I am attributing it to the wiring and the heat and will consider looking deeper into it when the light stays on for more than a few days.
So I went by Autozone today and had them read codes even though I didn't have a light on. Low and behold I have a P1187. Because I have only been getting about 9-10 mpg since I bought the thing in Feb I am thinking they have been bad all along. Anyway I will start tracking down a set of 4 O2 Sensors (ouch!), replace them and see what happens. I am thinking that since my fuel filter is new, oil change is up to date, wires are new, plugs are new and gapped correctly, MAF is plugged back in, and fuel pressure is good at the rail, this should (hopefully) make her like a new truck. Any suggestions on some decent O2's that won't force me to make my kids work in a sweatshop?
Please tell me the NTK are fine to use because at 85 bucks a pop I don't know how I am gonna get all 4 right now. And don't even mention the Bosch at anywhere from 120-200 a piece. I found some that were 375 a piece. Who in their right mind would pay that for an O2 sensor? That's freaking highway robbery. I knew they were expensive but man it sucks when its you paying out the money instead of some poor fellow landie lover on their own thread lol.
I saw those but other threads really seemed to shy away from them. After calming down (lol) I decided I can afford the NTK's (nothing more expensive though) but I want to make sure they are more reliable than the $20 ones if I am gonna spend the extra money. If they are the same screw it I will get the $20 ones and wire them in. Just wanna make sure i get the most bang for my buck. Know what I mean?
Get the NTK's off of www.race-mart.com or Amazon.
I used one of those Bosch wire it yourself ones on my wifes car, a year later it is jacked and now I need to replace both of them.
I used one of those Bosch wire it yourself ones on my wifes car, a year later it is jacked and now I need to replace both of them.


