Lots of Codes P1193,1187,1138 P0300
#1
Lots of Codes P1193,1187,1138 P0300
Ok where do I start? The car has 113,000 on it. was used very rarely by an old couple. P0300 Multiple misfires so I would think from reading here it need plugs, coils etc. , correct?
Took it out today for a drive ran great for maybe 50 miles then the temp gauge started rising. I would pull over let it cool, and it would start rough but after awhile run fine then the gauge would go up again.
Any help would be wonderful!
Thanks Everyone..everyone is doom and gloom. I am trying to be optimistic while tying a rope
Took it out today for a drive ran great for maybe 50 miles then the temp gauge started rising. I would pull over let it cool, and it would start rough but after awhile run fine then the gauge would go up again.
Any help would be wonderful!
Thanks Everyone..everyone is doom and gloom. I am trying to be optimistic while tying a rope
#2
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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Before you get too far, I would want to do the chemical test strips for combustion gases in the coolant to make sure it is not a head gasket issue. If that is good then proceed with the basic tune up : plugs and wires. The 96 and up have coil packs which I would not assume is bad. Do the plugs and wires first.
Also do a good cleaning on the MAF, the IACV and the port that it resides inside of in the plenum ( a gun cleaning kit is great for cleeaning the ports with). Also remove the TPC and clean that port real well.
There are two little hoses that go from each valve cover to the intake plenum as part of the emissions recirculating system. If these are original or not recent, they can cause problems due to vacumn leaks. Replace them. They are different sizes on each end so I recommend getting the correct ones from either AB or RN.
Also get yourself an UltraGuage scanner so you can read live data and reset codes.
Good luck.
Also do a good cleaning on the MAF, the IACV and the port that it resides inside of in the plenum ( a gun cleaning kit is great for cleeaning the ports with). Also remove the TPC and clean that port real well.
There are two little hoses that go from each valve cover to the intake plenum as part of the emissions recirculating system. If these are original or not recent, they can cause problems due to vacumn leaks. Replace them. They are different sizes on each end so I recommend getting the correct ones from either AB or RN.
Also get yourself an UltraGuage scanner so you can read live data and reset codes.
Good luck.
Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 07-07-2012 at 11:29 AM.
#3
#5
#6
#7
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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Did you spend much to get it?
I would want to rule out the head gasket first before spending a lot of money on it. That test kit is around fifty bucks for several test strips.
It will quickly confirm or deny the presence of combustion gas so you can proceed based on science not wild guesses or gut feelings.
Buy an Ultraguage (around 80 bucks or so). This will provide you live data real time again so you can follow a logical path in determining what it is doing and why it is behaving as it is.
Both of these will prevent costly wildass guesses on what is wrong and what to replace.
Some of the sensors and such are very expensive. So is replacing good parts or putting new parts in a bad engine.
One that has been driven only sporadically is often more screwed up than one that is driven frequently. Also an elderly couple cannot maintain one very well themselves as most of us at least try to or have to do it ourselves.
Do you have any records on what has been done? Best to assume that it needs a complete update on everything. There is a 60k list in the tech secton you need to become familar with. And then start on after you deal with the overtemp situation.
Have you downloaded the RAVE yet?
Do you have the money to maintain it properly? Just doing all the fluids and filters along with things like wheel bearings, brakes, hoses, belt, will set you back a few hundred. And that is without any major problems. When I say all fluids that includes diffs and the front end as well.
We see a lot of people who jump on the chance to buy one of these and then freak out when they encounter the expense of the problems that do tend to surface upon driving them very much.
IF IT DOES OVERHEAT, SHUT IT DOWN QUICKLY OR YOU RISK RUINING THE ENGINE. IT IS ALUMINUM YOU KNOW. EDIT: What I really meant was do not continue to drive it in an overheat condition. You should allow it to cool by turning heater on full blast to extract the heat. If you try to just keep going like some others have done because they "had to get it home and it was only another 20 miles...."
I would want to rule out the head gasket first before spending a lot of money on it. That test kit is around fifty bucks for several test strips.
It will quickly confirm or deny the presence of combustion gas so you can proceed based on science not wild guesses or gut feelings.
Buy an Ultraguage (around 80 bucks or so). This will provide you live data real time again so you can follow a logical path in determining what it is doing and why it is behaving as it is.
Both of these will prevent costly wildass guesses on what is wrong and what to replace.
Some of the sensors and such are very expensive. So is replacing good parts or putting new parts in a bad engine.
One that has been driven only sporadically is often more screwed up than one that is driven frequently. Also an elderly couple cannot maintain one very well themselves as most of us at least try to or have to do it ourselves.
Do you have any records on what has been done? Best to assume that it needs a complete update on everything. There is a 60k list in the tech secton you need to become familar with. And then start on after you deal with the overtemp situation.
Have you downloaded the RAVE yet?
Do you have the money to maintain it properly? Just doing all the fluids and filters along with things like wheel bearings, brakes, hoses, belt, will set you back a few hundred. And that is without any major problems. When I say all fluids that includes diffs and the front end as well.
We see a lot of people who jump on the chance to buy one of these and then freak out when they encounter the expense of the problems that do tend to surface upon driving them very much.
IF IT DOES OVERHEAT, SHUT IT DOWN QUICKLY OR YOU RISK RUINING THE ENGINE. IT IS ALUMINUM YOU KNOW. EDIT: What I really meant was do not continue to drive it in an overheat condition. You should allow it to cool by turning heater on full blast to extract the heat. If you try to just keep going like some others have done because they "had to get it home and it was only another 20 miles...."
Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 07-16-2012 at 05:29 PM.
#8
It was serviced by LR @ 103,000 I have all the receipts from the garage they went to (closed til Monday) seems like they did oil changes, brakes, new exhaust and a gasket for $10 4/11 Odometer then 111,168, last bill oil ..10W30 @ 112777 1/3/12. Passed Emissions and Inspection but that doesn't say much about the issue at hand. I fully expected to do the whole tune up, lube thing. Yes when I see it going past 9 o'clock I turn it off. To be honest it ran great until I washed it at the car wash the other day lol perhaps the dirt was holding it together..
Last edited by gRover Cleveland; 07-06-2012 at 07:35 PM.
#9
It was serviced by LR @ 103,000 I have all the receipts from the garage they went to (closed til Monday) seems like they did oil changes, brakes, new exhaust and a gasket for $10 4/11 Odometer then 111,168, last bill oil ..10W30 @ 112777 1/3/12. Passed Emissions and Inspection but that doesn't say much about the issue at hand. I fully expected to do the whole tune up, lube thing. Yes when I see it going past 9 o'clock I turn it off. To be honest it ran great until I washed it at the car wash the other day lol perhaps the dirt was holding it together..
#10