I went out and measured mine, but I use the port on the passenger side from the PCV vent. Got 17 once warmed up. I'm at 100 feet above sea level. Only way to get 10 was goose it, and that only lasted an instant. FPR on mine is in the low 30s, no where near that 50 you saw. There is a six inch vac hose from engine to FPR, might need inspection. It is almost like you have a pinched return line to the tank, fuel is gonna go somewhere.

0125 is warm up time fault, engine is not getting up to temp quick enough. I notice on my scanner if ECT is unplugged (the engine one, not the gauge one that only has a single wire) that I get a coolant temp reading of -40F. So if your scanner shows a very low engine temp figure, even with a new sensor, it could be a wire or connection issue in the mix.

Fuel temp sensor on rail (does not show up in OBDII port) could be telling ECU to dump more fuel. Attached page from another tech manual with resistance spec if you want to ohm it. Since this is a "low ohms = high temp" sensor, it could also be a short or ground in the wiring. The sensor tells the ECU to open up injectors more to dump extra fuel during a hot re-start when bubbles could be present in fuel rails.

Cam Shaft Position sensor impacts injector timing.

Knock sensors alter timing, by cylinder. The ECU can have each cyclider on a different advance, to correct for knock with poor fuels.

 

Hey Savannah thanks for your response. I can ease the throttle up to about 2k rpm and get 15 inches of vacuum, then quickly release the throttle and get an instant increase in vacuum for just a moment. When that increase hits the fuel pressure goes instantly to 32 so that checks the return line from the pressure regulator. I suspect the presure regulator ain't gettin enough constant vacuum at 10 inches to release enough fuel and thus the flooding result. Low vacuum in my past years of wrenching means either a leak or late ignition timing. I can find no leaks, disconnected and plugged Valve cover and brake vacuum lines. Checked that little hose at the pressure regulator and it apears fine. I'd like to advance the distrubutor as a test but there ain't one. This is gonna be somethin simple that I haven't been able to fine. I tested for leaks around the engine by spraying ether all around the top of the motor and all vacuum fittings I could see with no change in engine sound. I did have a ABC dry chemical extinguisher close by!

 

Did you check the line running to the purge valve? Disconnect it and plug it at the port. If the valve is bad staying wide open you wouldn't detect this by spraying around the intake. Maybe something with the canister?

 

Another Rover tech said they were shown how to obstruct the rubber hose from the air box with a clean oil filter, makes vac leak whistle loud....

 

I pulled of the hose for the emission valve at the intake (mechanical latch), and I could get it to drop to 13, could not duplicate 10. The leak at 13 was very noticable, that's a lot of air.

 

Purge valve is a possibility I haven't checked. So far there are 3 vacuum ports I have tested, Fuel pressure regulator, Brake booster, and PCV. Are there other vacuum access points to the plenum chamber? I don't hane a 10' line or i'd connect the pressure regulator to the Spitfire and see if that corrects the pressure issue.

 

Also thinking if there was a huge vacuum leak that should lean the mixture in contrast to the rich condition present. Unless the air leak cannot overcome the 50psi fuel pressure. Engine runs ok when I clean the plugs just won't run over 3000rpm. Then black smoke and plugs foul again.

 

The purge valve line connects to the port right next to the intake boot on the plenum, you have to squeeze the connector tabs to release it. Try disconnecting it and plug the port with a rubber cap and see what you get for vac then. We are quickly running out of places to be losing vac, there isn't much left to check. You only have the breather hoses, the brake booster, the FPR port and the purge valve port. Unless you have a bad manifold gasket or the plenum is leaking between the adapter and manifold, or adapter and upper plenum. Beginning to think this engine jumped time, can't see any other reason for the low vac. You have good compression and low but steady vac and have checked everything else.

Have you disconnected the return line and blown through to the tank?

 

pulled the purge this morning, no joy. There is also a line near to it that 90 degrees to the valve cover, no help. THere is a dashpot on the throttle that connects to the throttle butterfly. It appears to be a vacuum idle control maybe? There is a port for a vacuum connection but nothing on it. Also no disconnected lines loose in the area. Where does this unit get it's vacuum? Some computer port? It looks like maybe fast idle/cold starting system. When engine starts it goes right to idle. about 800rpm on the tac.

 

That is the cruise control actuator. It gets it's vac from the vac pump directly below the power steering reservoir, it's buried under sheet metal. One line runs from the brake switch to a "T" near the booster, then one goes to the pump and the other to the actuator. NOT related to engine vac at all.

Not sure what to tell you on this. Are you certain there was no vac leaks around the intake and plenum? You have to have a pretty large leak to have this going on.