Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 06:43 AM
  #51  
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If you think you have an exhaust leak, the SeaFoam treatment will also "smoke" it out (smoke will come from the leak spot as well as the tail pipe). Aslo, I used an IR thermometer to point at suspected leak spots, when truck was cranked up cold the exhaust system was warming up, but the leak spot was already 400F.

Seafoam treatment should be done privately, other smoke eaters would never let you hear the end of it....
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 08:32 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by contrafiddler
Jafir, why 2 different designs? I'd figgured that one had been replaced in the past.
One has to be more low profile to clear the driveshaft, because it's offset. The other one that is round, kind of hangs down a bit lower and is more likely to get a little beat up. Also, due to it's shape, if the catalyst inside starts to break apart, it can get moved around and cause restrictions. I had a 96 that did this, and it wouldn't rev over like 1800 or 2000. And if you'd try to rev it up, the pipe in front of this cat would glow red hot eventually.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 12:41 PM
  #53  
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Ok kids, new information. Disconnected both sides exhaust at the manifold. Vaccum at idle 11 vacuum at fast idle 16. I guess it ain't the cats. I'm back to timing either ignition or valve. Can i test these with engine dissasembly?
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 12:49 PM
  #54  
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Savannah i don't think it's exhaust leaks. I would have thought clogged. But with exhaust disconnected there is no change. I didn't check temps at the manifolds by the heads. On any other motor I would have said late ignition timing. One side passenger had 3 studs with different type nuts(one now wrung off). Driver side had 2 bolts ond stud.I wonder if the heads hove been done. The engine cranks fine and runs pretty good up to 3000rpm til the plugs get carbon fouled from the rich mixture. What else can it be???
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 12:51 PM
  #55  
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I live in the country so neighbors and smoke aren't an issue. I'd just call dispatch and warn them of any smoke investigation/wildfire calls near this address would probobly false and the FD is onscene.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 01:01 PM
  #56  
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Can unplug cam shaft sensor and engine should run with default valve timing. From RAVE:

If the camshaft sensor fails, default operation is to
continue normal ignition timing. The fuel injectors will
be actuated sequentially, timing the injection with
respect to top dead centre. Injection will either be
correct or one revolution out of synchronisation. The
fault is not easily detected by the driver. The fault is
indicated by illumination of the malfunction indicator
light (MIL) on North American specification vehicles

Should also be able to unplug knock sensors, in case they are making ECU correct the wrong cylinder timing. From RAVE:

The knock sensor produces an output voltage in
proportion to mechanical vibration caused by the
engine. A sensor is located in each cylinder bank
between 2/4 and 3/5 cylinders. The ECM calculates if
the engine is knocking due to camshaft and
crankshaft sensor signals regarding the position of the
engine in the cycle. The ECM can also work out
exactly which cylinder is knocking and retards the
ignition on that particular cylinder until the knock
disappears. It then advances the ignition to find the
optimum ignition timing for that cylinder. The ECM can
adjust the timing of each cylinder for knock
simultaneously. It is possible that all eight cylinders
could have different advance angles at the same time.
If the camshaft sensor fails, the knock sensor will
continue to work, but as the engine may be running
one revolution out of sychronisation the ECM may
retard the wrong cylinder of the pair e.g. 1 instead of
6. If the knock sensor fails engine knock will not be
detected and corrected. The fault is indicated by
illumination of the malfunction indicator light (MIL) on
North American specification vehicles.

and for the fuel pressure regulator:

When the engine is under high manifold depression,
the applied vacuum sucks the diaphragm of its seat,
allowing fuel to return to the tank, resulting in a lower
fuel pressure. This is necessary because the high
depression will try to suck the fuel from the injector,
resulting in overfuelling if the pressure remained
constant. Failure will result in a rich mixture at idle but
normal at full load, or a rich mixture resulting in engine
flooding, or a weak mixture. Although the fault will not
illuminate the MIL, faults caused by the failure may be
indicated.

The ECU can and does vary timing by cylinder on models without a dizzy, so who knows what to expect with a timing light. The ECu will run with some sensors failed, so unplugging them may take them out of the list of possibles.

Of course, could be timing chain has jumped, and you are late valve timing. Front cover gaskets and a new oil pump gear set (you'll have it open) run about $110, plus a chain.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 01:06 PM
  #57  
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Found this handy chart - which also has a correction factor for altitude

see ALLDATAdiy.com - 2001 Ford Escort ZX2 L4-2.0L DOHC VIN 3 - Intake Manifold Vacuum Test

and http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm (better graphics)

Perhaps stethoscope of valve covers might point to stange noise (rocker arm issue) or take off valve covers (does not spray oil).
 

Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Mar 31, 2012 at 01:12 PM.
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 04:37 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by jafir
The round one usually goes bad first.

You mean GETS KILLED FIRST?
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 05:00 PM
  #59  
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OK, unplugged cam sensor. Engine would not fire or start. Reconnected starts with previous condition. I,'m about ready to push it into the pond. Anybody want a sick rover for $3k you can drive it up on the trailer.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 05:06 PM
  #60  
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Cam sensor on front cover and not crank sensor at rear of engine?
 
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