I finished my rebuild and the CEL comes one first flashing then solid. I am only getting 2 codes p1313 and p1314. I did a search and there are a few people that had these codes after a rebuild but there was never any solution posted. I know the motor thinks it running lean beacuse the short term fuel trims are banging away at +24 at idle and vary a bit from +8 to +24 when driving. These numbers are taken from my OBD reader that has live data and live data recording. The other weird thing, as the title implies, is that the Long term fuel trims have not moved from +3.9 now matter what the STFT are doing. It is stuck at 3.9 on both banks and this I believe is causing the fault.
I sprayed carb cleaner around the manifold and heads and I got no rev up or anything. It is running okay but sometimes a little rough at idle and has a hot start issue. The MAF is showing the right values and the graphing is showing smooth transitions with throttle increase and decrease.
Here in CA I can't just drive around with these on, SMOG is due in december or it will have to go on non-op... with a new motor. What about an ECU reset? Is that a thing?

 

Yes, ECU re-flash is a thing....
https://discoweb.org/showthread.php?t=92885

This fella had similar issues. Not exactly the same.
https://discoweb.org/showthread.php?...ight=fuel+trim

 

That is a lot of reading I still have to dredge through.
Sooooo... reseting the adaptive values might help but only if I can for sure verify that there is no upstream vacuum leak of the MAF. It looks as though I am going to have to visit the dealership. Even though my motor is new top and bottom I may seafoam it to see were smoke comes out to verify my exhaust isn't leaking. I will do a vacum leak test with starter fluid this time too.

 

robertf has developed an ECU flash app. Skip to page 9 in that thread.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...ms.gemsutility

I have no personal experience with it (thankfully).

 

I finally got around to finishing the reading. I have downloaded the app from Google Play and ordered the OBDII dongle from Amazon. The motor is still running very rich and there doesn't seem to be a rhyme or reason as to when or why the codes trip. I will let everyone know how it goes. I will be sending robertf some money for his efforts that's for sure.

 

I just got the OBDII plug from amazon. Bound it to my samsung phone, connected to the app then to my Disco. Cleared adaptive values so that instead of LTFT being stuck on 3.9 they were cleared to zero. Drove it around and low and behold the CEL started blinking again (after about 5 miles) giving me codes P1313 and P1314 plus another for a misfire in cylinder 4. I am going to compression test that cylinder and also run a fuel injector test after verifying the wire is on the plug tight. I doubt that is my problem though cause if it was then bank B would be the only one with this problem. But that app did exactly what it was supposed to and as soon as discoweb sends me an activation code I will get a hold of the guy who got this to work and throw some money at him. In the mean time I have yet to figure out what is going on but will move forward.

 

Just changed my fuel filter and the light didn't come back on for about 10 miles or so. Stayed off. I do also here a clunking oil can noise from my valley pan gasket. I checked the compression in all my cylinders and got 120 in all with no leak down with the exception of #6 which was 115 with no leak down. I can't help but feel this is somehow related via vacuum leak but I having a helluva time trying to find where. Maybe the valley pan gasket? But the motor didn't rev when I sprayed starting fluid into the manifold lower, upper and middle including injectors even though all injector o-rings there are new. As a side note the LTFT are now stuck at 0 instead of 3.9.

If at first you don't succeed just keep doing it wrong until something goes right.

 

Since the adaptive trim reset the long term fuel trims have moved which is good. But after torquing down the manifold again I am still getting P1314-13. My next step will be replacing the valley pan gasket but I may replace the MAF first. It is easier to do and takes a lot less time. I downloaded the torque app to use with the OBDII bluetooth module. It was showing that I had 20.8 in/hg of vacuum at idle and less at rev. Also while in the high mountains (5000+ feet) on Sunday the vacuum was measured at 38.2... So since these engines do not have a MAP I am thinking that the only place that info can come from is the MAF and if there is that much difference then maybe the MAF has been culprit this whole time? Any thoughts Ladies and Gentleman? I don't blame you if the answer is no cause I got nothin' at this point but I shall pass on what I find.

 

A friend of mine had a similar issue with his AEL Disco. It ended up being the bad MAF causing the intermittent misfire codes. The engine almost stalled when I brushed my hand across the intake horn, swapped out the MAF and was good to go.

 

You're doing all the right things. I suppose the MAF is the next item to check on. Used units from a specialist like Paul Grant are affordable.