Fuel pumps are much cheaper than O2 sensors. That's where I'd go next (I'm cheap).

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...el-pump-53083/

 

It does look as though that may be were I am going with this. The fuel trims pinned again hard lean with a -12 on long term and -6 on short term. The CEL came on again and with my beloved P1313-14 codes and nothing else. Well I think its safe to say that its not a leaking manifold because now its trying to lean out the mixture with no success. I'm pretty sure that's right anyway. before I reset the adaptive values the very first time the long term trims were stuck at +3.9 and the short term trims would be pinned at +24. It was trying to compensate for a rich condition but now it looks like it is compensating for a lean condition. This is a change since I changed the MAF so fuel pressure is starting to make sense.
So here are the O2 sensor values the trim values are taken from the same frame just before the CEL came back on. I was trying to do a DTC trigger for recorded data but after driving around a while I thought it wasn't going to trip so just started to record then at the end of the 100 frames or just after the damn light came on. In short these values might not represent the problem. I am showing three frames of data at multiple RPMs as listed below.

O2s B1 S1 1.015v 1.015 1.015
O2s B1 S2 1.000v 0.590 0.495
O2s B2 S1 1.015v 0.120 0.040
O2s B2 S2 1.005v 0.160 0.140

STFT B1 -.08 +7.0 -0.08
LTFT B1 -5.5 -5.5 -5.5
STFT B2 +3.1 +3.9 0.0
LTFT B2 -5.5 -5.5 -5.5
Engine RPM 1253 650 1137
Calc load 33.7% 25.5 27.1

 

B1 S1 is reading rich across three speeds and unchanging, B2 S1 is reading lean until 1253 and then it's bang rich in 116 rpm. You have a leaking injector on B1 and vacuum leak at the intake to head junction on B2 would be my best guess. The B1 S1 injector kinda bugs me because the voltage never changes across all three rpm but it's downstream buddy is following along although middle of the road value - not rich or lean really. B2 S1/S2 are both reading lean until 1253 which a vacuum leak would be overcome at that point and both hit rich so you must of just hit the throttle at that snapshot.

 

I noticed that the injector voltage didn't change on B1 S1 in the data I provided and looked through the graphing of all 100 frames and it does change varying like it should, it didn't look like it cause of the random shots I used. I think this was frame 20, 50 and like 75. I live in a spot were there are lots of short steep hills if I am not on the freeway. All of the frames I stored were all on side roads. I think my max RPM for the whole thing was 1900 rpm. I read on another forum that described exactly the issue I am having as being a bent reluctor tab for the crank sensor. I did find one that was contacted by the sensor so maybe that's it... Chicken bones in a jade bowl I know. When the light comes on again I will do what I have been putting off and that is remove and reinstall the manifold. I cleaned all the injectors when I put the motor back together and in doing so would like to think I tested them. I also had no leak down on the fuel pressure test. We'll see.

 

I had read about the reluctor ring tabs somewhere too so same page. If the Crank Sensor has made contact check it too, bent snout. It's wiring is also another area that is problematic, look for burned spots behind the exhaust. Good to know about the leak down test. I used to set the intake between the heads and bolt it up snug but loose enough I could move it before cinching down the heads to alleviate misalignment between the three. Worked. Also found better valley pans are bought individually, not in a head gasket kit.

 

Well so far after driving about 40 miles today I had no CEL. I will check in again in a couple days but it has not turned on in all the places in normally does. Dried chicken bones in a jade bowl... all I'm sayin'. But when the light or if God willing, it turns back on then into the intake I go.

 

Sounds like the time my disco decided to not start for me one night. Checked the battery, checked the starter, checked the relay, no dice. Towed it home. Started right up the next morning and hasn't done it since in the last 5 years.

 

This problem has repeated itself multiple times and predictably I might add. I am getting closer to believing that the reluctor ring was the issue because the CEL hasn't turned back on and I drove about 80 miles today. I am going to give it another few days of driving and a long trip camping this weekend before I give it the all clear but I suspect its fixed. I did not check the sensor for damage though because I haven't had the CEL come back on again. It is definitely running better now too. It has more power and the exhaust smells less like its drowning in fuel.

 

The problem was the reluctor ring contacting the crank postion sensor. No check engine light for a week now. I drove 175 miles this weekend and no problem except an oil leak I have to chase down and a squeaky harmonic balancer. To get rid of the P1313 P1314 codes after a rebuild check your reluctor ring for the crank position sensor. That was my problem. I must have bent them (and not a lot mind you) bolting in the torque converter. My repetition in this post is for those that may be googling this same issue and hopes they find this thread as a possible solution.

 

Well done. Glad to hear it worked out. Thanks for closing the loop and making this forum more useful. These types of contributions are valuable.