Not a biggie its great for us to have our own lists...its just the freakin engine flushes destroy more crap than do any good for you and running seafoam down the intake can actually cause piston ring wash (good bye piston rings) (many claim it works miracles) and then your plugs could foul so easy its not even funny (i guess if your changing them it doesnt matter)

DEXCOOL SUCKS NUTS Any coolant that is aluminum safe is good in my book, also check out evans cooling waterless coolant, thats what im going to in the spring

When it comes to motor oils..it really depends on your motor. Some can take and some cant. Perfect example, I switched my bro-laws ranger that had 150K miles on dino oil to AMSOIL and it took it really well..no big oil usage or anything. What i do recommend to do is if the engine has been running dino oil..switch to semi syn first..see how the engine likes it...then change to full syn of your choice.

When it comes to full syn I would say ask your self how much protection or how often you want to change your oil..believe it or not..in Europe the drain intervals are far above and beyond what US is. Honestly the only way to know what your engine likes is an oil analysis period. I would never ever ever put anything less than 10w40 in the landy's unless you live in subzero below -15* weather

Any modern oil is FAR FAR FAR better than what our engines were specced for, cant go wrong with either one dino or semi syn or full syn. I prefer AMSOIL myself..been using it since i was 16, love it.

 

Motor oils in Europe are formulated different than here in the US so the drain intervals are different.
BMW has their own brand of oil that is a full synthetic and can go 15k on one oil change and is also loaded up with anti wear additives.
I still would never do it though.

I do agree that modern oils are way better than what our trucks came from the factory with.
Stick with a name brand and you cant go wrong.
I use and recommend Rotella and change it every 5,000 miles.

 

On my 5.3L silverado I have went 27K on an oil change with AMSOIL..key is...oil analysis (not trying to sell AMSOIL at all)

Rotella is an amazing oil, cheap and gets the job done

I usually do 6-month intervals with AMSOIL, one before winter and one before summer (we'll see how the Rover 4.0 likes the Amsoil)

I will say this, AMSOIL's gear oils are the best, yes they are money but they are awesome

 

Uh, well, Not sure what you mean by piston ring wash. The only thing it could wash is your cylinder walls, and the lubricity of the fluid, no longer than it is used, is enough to not do any damage. The only thing it does to the rings is break up carbon and increase compression... But this wasn't to debate seafoam. People here use it, it works, and there haven't been any ill reports from people using it. If you have damaged your Rover using it, I would love to hear about it..

Also, it isn't about the oil, it is the filtration. These engines run to rich and are too loose to run over 6K. I ran a semi 1 million miles on an oil change with Royal Purple. Of course I had a ceramic bypass filter on it and still spun the filter at regular intervals... Run the analysis, you will see..

 

Hey whatever works for you.
I am not willing to pay that much (nor can I afford it) for motor oil so I use what is readily available and cheap but also a great oil.
When I drove cement truck we used Rotella in EVERYTHING, literally.
The transmissions, the hydraulic system, the forklift engine, the bulldozer, front end loader...you name it if it required a oil it got Rotella.

 

I agree with Spike 100% here. Use what you prefer and change it regularly.

I Europe, they get the good formulas for oil. Now we have to deal with the CI4+ crap for ULS diesels. No slickum left.

 

On bobistheoilguy.com many have had problems with the engine hydrolocking when they did seafoam through the intake (could it have been misusage..yes..but i never would want to risk it) like I said...me personally...run seafoam through the gas tank and gets great results that way.

What I meant by piston ring wash is that some engines have so much crud built up that when it dislodges the build up...the real problem awaits them, some have had problems in the ring lands where it would not seal anymore due to lack of crud that was maintaining some compression in that cylinder.

Does anyone know if someone makes a dual oil filter kit for us?

 

"ringwash"

I've seen it happen on cars. compression is fine before any type of treatment. then you add another fluid that is meant to "clean", and has a different flash point, and is thicker than fuel, sometimes it can increase compression so much, you'll pop something. in higher mileage vehicles that is usually the rings, seen stuff blow out gaskets, harm valves etc.

not saying Seafoam necessarily, but, other intake cleaners

 

.......Like I said... Synthetic..

 

Exactly no snake products in my ride. Just use quality brand fuels and lubricants and your fine guys