Alright guys, so ever since my Coolant Temperature Sensor went out Landy has been being a little girl and complaining. Firstly, I replaced my Check Engine Light by replacing both of the Coolant sensors and the wire boot cover thing with a generic NAPA one. Then, about two weeks ago I got the light again and replaced the rear sensor again. This past week about every three days my light has gone out, then three days later come back on. My temperature gauge is not working and is just staying at the bottom.

So I have included some pictures of the sensor and the generic connector I got at NAPA; I'm thinking it's the connector because I soldered and spliced the connector so it definitely would be connecting.....do I need to find a genuine replacement? (Anybody got a parts truck they want to grab it off of and send it to me?




Also, my tach only works when it wants to, any easy fix?

 

The old broken connector

New sensor and generic connector

 

Did I or did I not tell you not to go cheap on the coolant temp sensor?
Now you are spending more time and money than what it would have cost you in the first place.

I bought my coolant temp sensor (the one for the ECU) at AutoZone, $15, direct fit, screwed it in and plugged it in, no problems.

If NAPA cannot get you the OEM sensors then you will need to order them online.
If you order them from AtlanticBritish today you will have them by Wed if you select the FedEx Home Delivery option.

 

Uh oh Honda, sounds like you're in trouble with Spike.

 

The one you picture is certainly the single wire one for the gauge. If wire connection is "open" or "high resistance" (corrosion), it will make gauge read low. Mine does not have a lot of clearance under the fuel rail.

But it won't have a thing to do with engine performance or check engine light. What codes did you get? That one next to it with the rectangular two wire cap is the one that drives the ECU and shows up on your scanner for coolant temp.

Also, if tach is not working, alternator is not working. Alternator has a special wire that plugs on to a tab on the back and sends a signal to the tach that varies in frequency as the engine changes RPM. If alternator regulator or brushes are going out, this will stop completely. When tach is a zero, bet volt meter will show battery is not getting a full charge. We have had one post (in last six months) about the tach signal wire intermit between alternator and tach, just about all others are alternator dying.

Money and time are tight. Instead of getting a rebuilt by unknown factory full of cost cutting bean counters (no offense to any MBAs on here); save the hassle of multiple failures, go backs, and have altenator rebuilt by your local indy shop, for like $100. Or order the regulator/brush set online for about $65 and DIY, if bearinsg are not noisy.

 

Haha, sorry Spike, you called it.

Yeah Buzz, I'm getting two coolant sensor codes of P1496 and one other, I can't remember it. Alternator? Not what I want to hear

Speak of the devil, Check Engine Light came back on last night.

 

I wasn't trying to be a jerk, but sensors are not something you can't go universal on, you must use OEM or OEM equivalent, thats just the way it is.

 

No dude, it's cool, I understand. I reckon whenever I get a day off I'll tackle the alternator and check the connections for the connector. I also am going to reinforce my endcaps I ripped off this weekend

 

Forget about the misleading, inaccurate, and unnecessary one-wire temp sensor. Save up for an ultra-gauge and get an exact live reading with a programmable temperature alarm.

 

I want everything to work. If I'm not mistaken isn't the one wire sensor for the temperature guage?

ScanGuage or an Ultra, I'd like to have one for sure