I finally got my D1 back on the road... for about 10 minutes. After a quick test drive, I came home, went inside to grab something to eat, and when I tried to restart it, the alarm went off. Great. I never even locked the truck.

I've been searching for the last 24 hours, and everything I'm coming across either sounds like problems with the immobilizer (not the alarm), or problems with the actuator in the door. I don't believe I have actuator problems, because my driver's door locks and unlocks normally, and still operates the central locking system (on the two driver side doors, anyway... the actuators on the PASSENGER side don't seem to be connected). If I understand it correctly, the 'spider' immobilization thingy doesn't control the alarm, but ONLY the immobilizer... so I don't believe that's my problem either. I just can't seem to disarm the alarm. I've tried everything I can think of, locking and unlocking the doors countless times... I feel like I'm out of ideas.

Help???

 

Door key turns more than one switch. The one that locks/unlocks the doors is shown with connector 507, the one that arms/disarms alarm is shown with connector 504. Pix shows they are separate. So one could be bad.

If no key fob, open driver side kick panel, locate connector c2101, pin 3, a blue with green wire. Momentarily ground this wire to arm/disarm alarm.

 

Thank you, fine sir, for the quick reply... heading out with a flashlight now!

 

Interesting. I grounded the blue/green wire in c2101. Now when I turn the key, the alarm doesn't go off, but the red dash led stays on and I have no cranking.

 

From the RAVE:

For 96 Models:
'Unlocking with the key will not disarm the alarm or mobilise the vehicle. If the handset fails to unlock the vehicle See Repair, Handset.'

Is this true??

 

momentary ground or left it grounded? I have no key fob, have tripped alarm, have turned off with key.

Also see this on red light:

Theft Alarm LED

and immobilised

 

Momentarily grounded. I have a slow flash on the led. Can the spider have anything to do with this? It seems like such a common failure, I'm debating pulling it and bypassing it almost as preventative maintenance.

 

Momentary again, like turning the key in the lock. You want red light off. You can also measure at that point for volts to ground, and should see a change when door key is turned, if not, time for new lock parts or cable between lock and connector in kick well

 

I went for the easy fix. I had a key fob, which I assumed was bad, but it works fine with a new batt.

 

Yippee skippy! No more pretzle!