After pulling up the carpets and finding some rust In the floor boards I also found the mud flap mounting brackets to be pretty rusted out. Anyone know where to get replacements?

 

https://yrmit.co.uk/product-category...s-discovery-1/

Haven't used them as they are not in the U.S.A. and I would guess shipping could be costly. I would think there would be a more local supplier but I haven't found one yet.

 

Much Thanks for the suggestion. I’ll look into them and see what they have to offer.

 

Pick-n-Pull is your friend, look them up checking their inventory for a D1 when they come in.
Wow, your down in the hot dry central valley, how did your D1 get so rusted out? You playing "submarine" with it or ocean beach driving?
Your a rare bird my friend, I also have a 95 D1 5 spd, date of manufacture 11-94, own it since 1-2000 to present.
Another PITA is having to grind off the rivets securing the rear mud flap at the cross bar which contacts the rubber flaps. Had to replace the mud flaps due to the rubber cracking where they flex in the wind. Bolt with nyloc nuts, paint and install. Distributor vacuum advance units by LR are crap, they seem to fail evry 19 to 23 months like clockwork causing the engine to a bigger turd than it already is as well cause you to fail smog checks......~~=o&o>.......

 

Great, I’ll look around for the pick and pulls and start searching there. I actually picked up the truck of the Defender source forum a couple months back.

It was a North Carolina truck and had a windshield leak i discovered. Those mats hold more water then ever imaginable and am guessing that’s where the rust developed. working on taking car or the rust now so it doesn’t get worse.

that’s awesome, very hard to find people with trucks like that. Am sure yours is a sweet rig. I think mine may be 07? Will have to check the door for sure.

ill definitely go that route for rear mud flaps. They are ripped off anyway so due for replacement.

luckily my truck is registered in Texas. I’m in the Navy and have Texas residency so no smogs or yearly inspections for me!

 

That flat plate with three studs should be a one hour project to DIY fab up. I was thinking you had some exotic piece of sheet metal with a bunch of bends bead rolls in it. Any metal fab shop or a sheet metal shop asking for a piece of flat stock of the proper gauge cut to size. Drill three holes then rosette weld three studs from the topside ending up flush with the sheet metal.

BTW, if you owned your 95 for several years or miles the two weak points (several more problems also) the tranny output shaft spline (male) to the transfer gear (female) wear away, very common which makes for feeling like a lot of drive line slack. On and off the power even just slightly loading then unloading especially 1st to 2nd, even 3rd you can experience clunking and jerking around when slowing down in these gears entering into just above the idling rpm range. A PITA acting like the clutch disc has broken springs or missing jerking, it's nasty. Tranny rebuild in my future before the splines are totally worn off hence spinning as if in neutral no go dead on road problem.
Other item if a keeper like my D1 is replace that rear driveshaft with one from a early Range Rover as they have a real steel cross U joint vs the rubber crap causing vibrations, they do not last. The replacement comes in a kit with a four bolt yoke for the rear diff as well seal.
Catch a sale at Atlantic British I recall, I replaced the driveshaft back in 2000 as in 2002 the 4.6 engine install which would eat them.
BTW, i'm street only, presently at 144K miles, original tie rod ends, sway bar ball joints, rear diff A arm location ball joints as well any and all other so called "lifetime" joints. Installed zerk fittings able to grease filling the sacks. All joints still stiff almost as stiff as new vs replacing with more doomed to fail "lifetime" joints.
Dry starts, rods rattling plus add the high rpm's of cold starts another death wish with these engines as well the distributor vacuum advance units i'd guess 80% plus have failed on D1's i've checked in wrecking yards. Look into the RPI site as an example why these engines are turds from the factory with much room for improvements. It's all in the details like a simple port matching job. Yours still have the thin steel head gaskets or later thicker composition gaskets which been installed which do not weep and leak? Thicker gaskets now dropped compression from 9.35:1 to app 8.82 to 8.88:1. Cam and lifters another doomed with wear from day one item. Zinc and phosphorus having been removed from engine oils now accelerating cam and lifter destruction, don't forget the cheap POS timing gear set LR installed a vs true double roller timing set. Dizzy mechanical advance ever been cleaned and lubed? Tank fuel pump, hell it's a GM part as well the IAC valve vs paying LR prices. Altered spring tension fine tuning the mechanical advance to what the engine wants and can handle all allowing it to run at its peak performance? We have (so called) good octane gas in the US hence some room for improvements. Last night I replied after a couple weeks delay being out of town on another thread on this forum. Check my BierNut reply it has a few photos you must open on what I have been up to working on my 95 D1. I'm a gear head, engines as well into anything mechanical. In the past i've been accused of "PLAGIARISM" on this (?) or another forum. ......~~=o&o>.....

 

Brig__2016, here ya go a 96 (automatic) with 213K miles listed for only $11,900. https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used...ting=261623965.....No thanks an automatic, deal breaker right there, high miles as a OB2 vehicle with those expensive known to fail coil packs vs a distributor. Never had distributor issue except one, the vacuum advance unit replaced with one from Oz. vs LR's. It's been operating failure free the past 14 years. Can't say that about LR's vacuum units. Being able to change initial timing plus when and how much timing advance plus altering the advance curve vs whatever the fixed factory computer has programmed into OB2 computers. More expensive Cats another bad feature as well able to read, correct and clear a printout fault code then clear all within a minute. Tag your it.
Your in the Navy, must know about NAS Alameda the island base in S.F. bay which closed in 97?......~~=o&o>.......

 

@BierNut there’s actually a local machine shop that seems to do some decently business. Will check them out. Wow, this is awesome! Ton of info to process and read now. This is a definitely a keeper so will look into driveshafts etc after cleaning up the rust and such. Need to go through everything in the truck with regards to gaskets, dizzy etc. That’s awesome to hear your truck is so well kept. All street is a major plus. I just opened up RPI and reading through it now. Will most likely be scouring your posts for more info.

there’s some crazy expensive disco 1s out there for such high miles. NAS Alameda, what a gem. Wish it was still around for my sake and being stationed there, maybe not for SF citizens sake though...

 

Brig, your ***** clean, no not yours the swivel ***** on the front axle?
Not being pampered by way of keeping them clean, nick, dirt, grime as well rust free?
The wiper seals will last a lot longer doing their job better also. They will leak out the 90 wt gear oil that LR required to fill with years ago.
Fast forward some 15-20 plus years LR came out with a thin grease with a moly base that turns into a solid at air temps, a thick liquid once heated up like during normal operating temps. This to prevent leaking gear oil as well running dry due to constantly leaking. One Shot LR called it. I say B/S, one package per side, I use 1 1/2 packages per side the extra added lube as well protection internally.
The swivel pin cap at the top has a selected set of stainless shims to allowing for tapered bearing wear as well a slight preloading of the bearings. Without preload and a slight slack the swivel housing will then move up and down, no way the seal can maintain contact with the ball surface hence oil, grease leaking out, dirt and water in. All bad!. Like loose wheel bearings, steering box (separate discussion big time history), linkage all add up having a LR with loose steering. Mine is new tight lock the steerig wheel no corrections required.
Nicks, scars and rust not going to help the wiper seals live a long life. Fine sandpaper like 1,000 grit, polish those *****. I only have a slight polished line where the seals contact the ***** at the straight ahead position, the rest having the factory machining finish. I'm a stickler on details.
BTW, "lifetime" ball joints and tie rod ends DO NOT have a ground in groove in the ball allowing grease to pass the ball and the seated pocket of the joint. Only ball and tie rod joints having a grease fitting have this groove allowing grease to pass the ball refilling the grease sack balloon. Caution not blowing up the grease sack pumping in too much grease.
I'm fully zerked, original joints 100%. I took a four finger Vice grip tubing holding tool, slightly straightened out the 90* bent fingers. Adjust the Vice grips to compress the ball joints just enough to unseat the ball from the joint's socket, something like 1/8" or less. This way grease can now pass the ball filling the grease sack. I did mentioned I drilled out the swagged steel end caps on these ball joints, tapped and installed zerk fittings? New to me this 95 D1 first week January 2000 at 61K miles from a PITA doctor. End of 5 /60K mile lease he wanted to keep it. He had 7/100K mile extended warranty on it. His wife another professional ($2-300K income) came home with a new Lexis, valet parking for two not three vehicles. The Rover had to go. He paid $48K for it new. I offered $19,250, he was pissed but cash on the table wins.
Funny as hell, "don't touch a LR unless it has dealership maintenance past records". B/S, i've seen and had damage done while under the last two years dealing with a dealership. Service writer "tech" as well a couple LR mechanics also LR engine builders and racers as personal friends, I had to tune them up to what i'm made of with my background. Machine shop, engine rebuilding with my A&P license rebuilding 2800 Pratt & Whitney engines, 501 D13 Allison engines (C130's). Turned IBEW electrician after United dumped 12,500 mechanics back in 75. I made it until Oct. 76. It takes a idiot like me thinking outside the box with my mechanical & electrical background to keep an LR alive. Extended warranty, rods rattling 3.9 POS engine from day one a bored out 3.5 Rover engine. Saved warranty $1,100 talking them into a factory new short block I located in Chicago, a 4.6. Comes without cam, lifters and timing gear set. "short block", no a stripped block. Good as the missing parts are rubbish from day one new. Piper cam w/lifters, true double roller timing chain w/ steel gears plus a Mark Adams "Tornado" chip. I stole, borrowed my old heads while waiting for block to arrive and had my machine shop give them a light valve and seat grind plus replaced valve guides as LR had problems, sticking open exhaust valves also burning valves if stuck. Also rocker shaft stand shims to properly preload the lifters. Paid the LR (hot rod LR friend also) $250 and on a sunday assembling the block as well indexing the cam and lifter preload. Monday he finishes off the engine. I supplied the oil, filter (7" long Hastings), break in additive. I already installed a MasterLube.org 3 qt. pre-oiling system with a trick timing system oiler. Simple for the wife to cold start pre-oil. My engine be it a dry 34 oz capacity filter installed, overnight oil drain, refill, it will have 38 psi oil pressure before starting the engine. Anything over 2 hrs parked hot, pre oiling engine first. Overkill yes plus I run Comp Cam's Engine Break In oil additive in the LR and all my push rod engines including my 70's BMW's, Norton's, Matchless bikes and vehicles. EPA removed the protective additives required in older engines including these older LR engines. Read the full RPI site including the crappy heads to intake port miss alignments. Port matching alone free horsepower gains. It's all in the details. I run Magnaflow cats (high flow) vs Rover rubbish ($$$$), Cat back stainless Borla exhaust. Many more hidden internal & external tricks. I go back to 1968 with this Olds/ Buick V8 engine including my dad's friends racing them back then. Installed a 3.5 Rover engine with adapter plate mating the 61 P1800 Volvo tranny to the Rover engine. This adapter plate I machined out in high school.
Yes critical thinking by how I was raised by dad with his machining also thinking outside the box. Cold ram air another item as well Bosch 4 hole injectors way better than those 1980 designed single dribble Lucas rubbish. I pass smog "too clean", this with the Mark Adams chip installed. Made an injector cleaning and testing system, set of 8 flowing within 3/4% flow from 200 rpm at 5% duty cycle to 8,500 rpm 95% duty cycle simulated testing. Rock the body just enough to jar the crank not spin it in 3rd gear, it will fire up shuddering then lugging off until idle rpm's. Milled out a 1 1/2" thick piece of aluminum, 1/4" aluminum ring, 1 1/2" added above intake manifold before the trumpet base, ring added before the plenum cover. Max torque 3.9/4.0 (same B&S engines) 4.6 of 3,100 rpm's, I ended up at 2,715 rpm's max torque. This with all engine specs, intake runner lengths all eight before and after spacers ran on a $30K NASCAR engine program (friend works in engine dyno shop), his computer results. Slow rolling stop, 2nd gear, light throttle I can pull away 400 to 450 rpm's light throttle. It will pull hard to the 5,900 rev limiter. No need to push past 5,200 rpm's abusing my engine. I posted my intake additions plus injector project on a LR forum, this one or another forum with photos, was accused of "PLAGIARISM". Yeah right with my personal plated vehicle showing. Went silent my schitt works screw 'em. Told to go away, Rover's are slow capable vehicles. Now reading owners installing 350 Chebbie V8's into Rovers. No way in my book, totally wrong. Well I came back after 4-5 years just to see what's going on. Called a smart ***, I must think differently. BTW I run the 5AM mass flow meter to pass smog looking 100% untouched under the hood, reinstall the larger 20 AM 4.6 mass meter afterwards. Remove the cold ram air, install factory snorkel, reset TPS, 2 minute swap.
Run 255/65-16 Michelins (M&S) street tread vs 235/70-16 tyres (love the Limey spelling). Identical diameter and roll out. Headed down HW Five past your area 3:30 AM, 49*F 17% humidity, BM pressure 29.98 in/Hg on the flat. Dash tach reading 155+ rpms @ 5,000 rpm's higher than the true 5,000 rpm's my seated next to me meter reading registered 5,130 rpm's on a two mile speed run on the flat. Ram cold air, Mark Adams chipped 4.6 running best it could with port matched heads, intake, exhaust iron manifolds, down pipes flowed plus Borla exhaust. It's up there in mph. I want a 4.9 stroker crank kit. This with a very mild cam wanting good low rpm street driving manors. NUFF B S N about me. I posted a couple photos but you'll have to sigh into the "shutterfly" site, they sent me a 10 years later photo collection which I lost due to a computer crash without backup. Yes i'm an idiot dealing with computers. Shutterfly my only past photo records I posted a week ago on this forum. Years ago on another forum before the computer crash. BTW, what field your in with the Navy? My friends were radial engine "ADR" mechanics, yeah right in the cross over to the jet age.
Catch me at; R90scj@gmail.com...~~=o&o>.......Carl