I attempted to install my TF 2" lift today.. I only have 1 word that can share my experience..

****!! You can work out what it says I'm sure.

What a nightmare.. My truck is in great condition with little to no rust but nothing would come apart right. Any who, lets focus on moving forward.

1. The rear shock upper bolt will not budge.. I had an air impact and a butane torch.. It was doused in PB Blaster the night before and every 15min while working on the truck. It just won't friggin move.. Ideas?

2. That brings me to #2. The front is lifted and done. I'm considered saying screw it and taking it to a shop for the rear. They can deal with it. Opinions on driving the truck with the front lifted and the rear stock? I figured the driveshaft would be on more of an incline so I figured I'd check first.

 

My TF 2" lift went really well, besides the driveline vibration that I still have not solved. But to answer your #2 question. I drove mine around for a week with the front lifted and the rear stock, in hopes of isolating the driveline vibration issue.

It did not seem to affect my vehicle in any way. But I best to see what the more senior members have to say.

I honestly had no issues with my lift. I actually did lift, wheel bearings, rotors/pads and SS brake lines. The hardest part I was with the front as the shock mount nuts did not want to come off and the shock bolt was hard to keep stationary.

Good luck with your lift.

 

The front lower shock nuts gave me a little trouble. Mainly because once I got to the end of the thread it just wanted to sit there and spin (shock wasn't moving). Once i had another guy to pull up on the shock as I turned the nut off all was well.

I can't for the life of me work out what the hell is up with my rear upper shock mount though. It feels like the bloody thing is welded on. I thought I was just being a woman so I got out the air impact. It doesn't even budge. I'm really quite stumped as to how I"ll get it off if I tackle it again myself.

I also haven't tightened the the new Terrafirma lower shock nuts on the front yet. TF decided to use a way bigger nut (22mm vs 17mm) and I didn't have a box wrench that size. Nothing else will fit in there.

 

One of my rear upper bolts broke. When they break, it SUCKS because you have to replace the whole mount, not just the bolt.

I soaked it for two days, tried heat, impact, etc with no luck. I was PISSED.

 

If you have a vibration after installing a short 2" lift, you have a drive line issue. How often do you lube all 6 grease fittings, when was the last time you inspected the u-joints.

 

Ohh great.. That's not what I want to hear.. Snapping would at least be something. Even with my impact I can't get the thing to do ANYTHING.

 

I wish I knew what to tell ya man. In my case, I seriously think breaking was the only way it was coming off. I got SOOOO lucky that a junk yard down the street had a 98 RR up on blocks. The mount is the same and... strangely enough I was able to get the one off the junker with hand tools. CRAZY.

 

Geezs.. I stood there swearing at it for a good 30min, that didn't seem to help.. Maybe I'll try the torch again.. Might not of heated it enough.

 

Swearing didn't work for me. Nor did the 13 Sierra Nevadas.

Just be patient.

 

rear drive shaft is completely rebuilt and balanced. Front drive shaft has new u-joints and everything is well greased. Vibration is weird comes and goes at different speeds

vibration comes at like 10-15 mph, 40-45 and 55-60 mph. I removed the front drive shaft and the vibration is present. Remove the front driveshaft and the vibration is gone. So it is localized to the rear. It is not major but you still notice it at those different speeds.

Not tires either. Had those balanced and rotated a couple of times now.