Any suggestions as to install? I ordered the tools for teh fan and was thinking of just replcing everything we unbolt with new, hoses, clamps, fan belt, water pump since will be down that far anyway.

 

It's a pretty straightforward process to pull the rad out. Take off the cowlings, pull all the lines, undo the mounts and pull it out.

Hoses - if these haven't been done in a long time, or you don't know when they were last done, do them now. It's cheap insurance (assuming you get decent hoses, there are plenty of horror stories here about cheap hoses popping off fast)

Clamps - if you do the hoses, get new clamps.

Serpentine belt - like the hoses, if it's been a long time it may be worth doing. Thy said, you don't need to pull it when doing a rad and you can generally just inspect them rather than replace on a schedule. Small cracks in the ribs are okay, but beware of missing chunks of rib, cracks going full across the belt, frays or rips. Watch the tensioner while idling; I believe the spec is maximum 5 mm movement.

Water pump - for the price of a gasket you can pull it and check it over. I believe Spike has a good list of what to look for when inspecting a water pump. Then you can decide if it warrants replacement.

 

You are going to need new O-rings for the trans oil and engine oil cooler lines.
There are only 2 bolts that hold the radiator in place.
No need to remove the fan if you dont want to.
In the tech section is a cheaper part for the fan clutch.
As how to remove the fan clutch, $10 cash at the local muffler shop with air tools is totally worth it.
Then you drive it home and do the rest of the work.

 

Thank you, been working on cars for 50 years and the British are the only ones I feel like a dummy with. HAD a jag V12 XJS it was like these as far as the temp gauge not being true, overheating starting in the MIDDLE of the range, VERY POOR flow design on the radiator and last but not least the electric fans that have trouble blowing out a candle.
I ALMOST am tempted to not use the oil cooler design and putting one in from the race car.

 

For those of us noobies, pictures of the install would be greatly appreciated.

 

Piece of cake if not doing the fan clutch, maybe 30 minutes. As mentioned, you'll want new O-rings for tranny and engine oil lines. Attached shows what all you will take loose. While it is out you can flush out the AC condenser fins as well.

See the small nipples on the battery side of the radiator, those are brass on the oem and bend when bumped. On the new one, they should be handled with care.

Nice afternoon in the CSRA to test radiators.....

 

Fan clutches suck on my truck. I have to put a chain pulley holder on the water pump because otherwise the belt spins. I feel as if I could turn the truck over! (Obviously it won't start) Even if I wack it a few times, it doesn't budge.

 

Tighten up on the belt tensioner, and whack the wrench on the fan bolt.

 

10-4 on that the p38 got to 201 at idle in traffic but ran at 194 all day the last two days.
After living in SC I figured that CSRA means Completely Stupid Residential Area. Just try and FIND contractor that can do what they say when they say.
Thanks for the Diagram.

 

It is a breeze, I used a regular wrench to remove fan.......spun right off. if you can find o rings get them.......I didnt need them mine looked fine, I just cleanend them off with WD 40,

The clips at the bottom of the rad that hold the shroud you will need to pry open a little more because the shroud is thicker then what they spaced for. Shroud must fit perfectly otherwise your fan will eat it up.


Fill up and enjoy. Ours is working like a champ in the 100 degree dallas days.