I'm heading back over to the grocery store to further diagnose and/or fix, but would appreciate some input. Drove 20 miles home from work, running normal. Drove 4 blocks to grocery store and when I came out, no start, i.e. cranks normal with a slight bit of "give it some gas and it will go (if it were carbed)" - verified in park, verified brake lights, fuel rail schrader sprayed very well when poked with a knife. Called the wife to come get me for dinner and last attempt, it stayed "stumbling" when key returned, but accel pedal push killed it.
I'm thinking of ignition switch (new, but loose on column) or the run circuit after crank. I haven't verified trans case shifter nor checked fuses - never a hint of probs like this.
Ideas??? Russ

 

What's the weather like?

 

the first shoot from the hip suggestion might be a failing crank position sensor....it sounds like you may have fuel pressure ( check it though..30+ psi)....so lack of spark comes to mind...the wiring harness on the sensor usually gets hot and brittle and may be shorting out...if it starts when it cools off, that's another indicator of a bad crank sensor..

 

That's where I was heading.
I had what felt like severe retarded timing or lack of fuel. Happened when wet out or going through puddles.
Ended up being the crank position sensor's wires. The insulation was brittle, cracked, & even missing in spots
It's my favorite sensor.

 

Stumbling, severe retarded timing, lack of spark...... sounds like a typical night at the bar.

Heat soak that was cooling off the longer it sat. I'd plus 2 on the CkPS at the age and miles of your Disco. Man, this is so Rover typical........ my other guess would be fuel pump if original.

When you changed out the ignition did it include the switch too or did you swap it out? How did you tie it into the existing ignition wires?

 

Oooh, while your down and under there, check the bracket it mounts to. Ya know, just for fun. ;-)

 

I was able to find that fuel pump relay isn't receiving turn-on signal from ECM - that was 11:00PM last night - and seeing the mess down by the CKP sensor, I took a break. The grocery store it's parked at is fine and have been watching it for me, too. Does the sensor fail or is it generally wires breaking/shorting. Looking at the one GEMS book I have, I couldn't tell if it's worth reading codes, will it cause a no start, ... What is the best reference you've found to understand the system connections. I've been looking at schematics - I guess I ought to print them so I can see it all at once.
The PO had changed the ign switch and didn't break the bolt heads off and had a seperate key, so I've rebuilt the original cylinder and will replace it so I'm back to one key. Wiring all still intact. I did swap the multi-function/fuel pump with the one from my 96 (no change), one terminal on inertia switch connector black, but still closed and working... Pulled the pump from my 96, and found a full tank of fuel that doesn't stink (thank you Startron Fuel additive!) and back to it after work tonight. Russ

 

My first foray into the realm of the CkPS was due to brittle & missing insulation on the wee wires. Moisture/water caused it to run like poo until it dried out. I pulled the connector up on top of the engine and fix it (splice, heat shrink, & solder).

Second venture, I do not wish upon you.

 

I know what yer sayin'!! I'll crawl under before it gets dark tonight - we're a balmy 55 degrees today - lookin' up 11 Thanks for your input, hrhoward and ihscouts!!! Russ

 

I wish it was a balmy 55 here, heat wave. Satellite Fuse Box 1, F3 20A fuse between ECU and Fuel Pump Relay (Multifunction Relay). The other side of that relay is the..... Inertia Fuel Shutoff....hmmm. Have you pressed/reset the Inertia Fuel Shutoff? I doubt that's it but doesn't cost anything.