I was reading this tread and I myself had the fuel pump on my 98 discovery go out 2 days ago and pulled it out and started seaching and was wondering if the ac delco ep241 would work in it,I got the pump out and tested and its dead.Autozone has the pump in stock for 51 bucks.If anyone could let me know it would be help me out.

 

I'm picking mine up tomorrow.

I'll let everyone know how it goes.

 

Do us all a favor and take pics of the rebuild, prices, cross referencesesessss' and all.
So if it is a fuel pump for a '96 Sunfire with the 2.2L engine for example and how much it cost, where you got it, all other parts too.
And pic's, large ones, like from Photobucket.
You see where I am going with this?
"tech section"

 

1998 Fuel Pump replacement w/Evap system
Parts List all parts bought at AutoZone
1-Airtex E3210 fuel pump 51.00
1-AirTex FS22 sock filter 10.00
1-AirTex FF3504 fuel filter 9.00
2-1/4"ID fuel injection clamps
1-5/16 ID fuel injection hose

Note-Fuel lines are personal prefence,useing the old one's or ordering new from dealer or online supplier
or useing rubber one and having to mod pump support bracket,if useing old one's you will need to find the
right size clamp to fit the old hose it's a must!,If you want new org. hose's there about 10.00 at dealer,If you
use the rubber you buy at AZ you will have to grind out the groumet hole on the support bracket on the pump
hose,and the fuel injection clamps(5/16" I.D.) are to big for the new style fuel injection hose so I opted
for the 1/4" I.D.fuel injection clamps they were a little tigth but left room in the pump housing.You must
fuel injection hose because of the pressure that the pump make's,reg. fuel line won't hold up.
Remove the carpet and mat and roll up remove 6 screw's from cover plate,get a shop vac and clean out sending
area keep close buy you will need it.Remove the 2 fuel line's 1 1/4" vac line and 2 ele. plug's,Use a long
flat blade screw driver and hammer to tap the ring off the sending unit,once that's removed find a pry tool
to help lift out the sending unit.Once you have it lose tip it to the passenger side to help remove the arm
and float.
Becareful of the arm and float while taking the pump housing apart,Take the top pump hose clamp lose and
remove the plastic line then remove the 2 screw's from the pump line support and unplug the ele. connecter
You don't have to remove the return line hose.
Before removing pump bucket remember how the pump is sitting in the housing.
Use a small 2 flat blade screw driver to pry back the tab's (4) use caution,the are 2 rubber groumet's on
the pump spacer,This spacer sit's in a certain way remember this for reassembly the pump should drop right
out.
This where the fuel line replacement starts with what line's you are using so figure out what you will use
and and adjust the pump support by grinding out the groumet hole for use with the rubber sytle hose or leave
it if you use old or new org.If using the rubber just measure the length to old hose and use the correct size
clamp for hose depend ing on what hose.
To reassemable the bucket place the pump spacer on the pump with the rubber groumet's on the leg's of spacer
and check the fit of the spacer to pump and install the sock filter so that it matches the holder in the bottom
of bucket,This important! then push the bucket back on make sure you put the pump hose support on now then put
the hose on with clamp,then install the 2 screw's for hose support and ele. connecter.
Use some grease or vasoline the lub the O-ring in the tank,set the pump in and check the Tab that line's up the
pump to the tank on the right hand side and carefully push down to seat the pump and screw the ring back on dont
cross thread it make it real tight as there is vacuum that could leak, install the 2 fuel line's and 1/4" VAC
line and the 2 ele. plug's.
Take the old fuel filter off and install new one.Now turn the key to run position and check for leaks at filter
the pump will run for a bit so turn key on a couple of time's to presure the system then when the engine start's
it will go to high PRM for a minute or so drop it in drive and drive not to far then shut it down and restart
the RPM should be normal if not it will clear up,Alway's check for leak's for a day or two to make sure.
I wanted to say thank's for this thread and the info that helped me out,Let's go to Winrock.

 

I am sorry I didn't take pic's but I dont own a camera and my cookie cutter wont let near her's, and it was raining hard while I installed the pump,Also didnt mean to hijack this thead.Delete this post I didn't think and it's late Sorry guy's won't happen again. Antichrist is the one who need's the credit he posted the correct pump #'s(ACdelco EP241 and TS7 sock)which lead me to cross to the E3210 pump which is Identical to the Org. Thank you very much save me alot of time.

 

SHE RUNS!!!

will post up pics when I get a chance, and part numbers...

now for the ??? part... she runs great 35ish psi at the rail. 13.38 volts at the pump. when you stomp on the pedal she revs right up... then... 7 or 8 minutes later

28psi... stumble

22psi... won't rev up...

then she quits.

wait 2 minutes, starts right back up and runs great

so, while she's running great, I go to the back, multimeter connected...

13.38 volts at the pump

at first stumble, still 13.38 volts...

Take a pair of needle nose pliers, and partially pinch off the return line...

she runs perfectly. no stumbling, no dying out.

let go, and 5 minutes later, she stumbles again. do the needle nose trick, she's right where she should be.

Fuel pressure regulator?

my old pump was bad... could both have been going at the same time?

Cheers.
Larry

 

I'd pull the vacuum line off the regulator and watch it

If it still drops off, my money's on the pump, (you've replaced the filter, right?)

I think the air-tex I used was a #3270. (ac # ep376) ebay-$53

luck,greg

 

so, with the vacuum line off, that bypasses the regulator...

and yes, the filter is new.

 

The vacuum line off won't bypass the regulator, but allows it to go to a higher pressure. When there is vacuum at the regulator(throttle closed or partially open), it runs at X-psi. When the vacuum is taken away( think wide-open-throttle), it bumps up to a slightly higher psi to supply an extra bit of fuel.

 

Truth

The reason I say monitor the press with the vacuum line off is I'm not certain the pump is adequate (sorry)

Mine puts out 50# at idle with the vacuum disconnected - I never checked under load (somebody holding brake and giving it gas in drive while I'm under the hood)

Then do it over again with the vacuum connected - should stay over 30 psi at least

While all this is going on, the injectors don't care.

luck,greg