My Rover "Claire"
#1
12-09-2010, 08:57 PM
My Rover "Claire"
You know what they say, never name something unless you want to get attached. Well I gotta say I fell in love with "Claire". She's a 1995 Disco I. Fresh black paint job from the guy I bought her from and completely stock. So here's what I've done to make sure she is happy.
- Changed brake pads
(Duralast, I snipped off that connector thing)
- Bled the brakes
(the front passenger side's bleeder screw was stripped. I ended up cutting my hand trying to loosen that thing and so I wasn't able to bleed that one. Any ideas on how to get it out? Or should I just replace the whole thing?)
- Cleaned the throttle body
(I was scared for a second when she wouldn't start, plus the Check Engine light came on. All fixed, and I learned my Diagnostic box under the passenger seat works! I thought it was broken!)
- Changed the spark plugs
(Bosche Plat 4)
- Switched the wire set
(Bosche)
- New distributor and rotor
(forgot)
- Changed the oil [I didn't realize the drain plug SPAT OUT the oil..big mess]
(after I drained the oil I put in ATF and let it run idling for 30 minutes. Supposed to clean it right? Then I switched to Shell Rotella)
- New oil filter
(mobile 1)
- New air filter [took off the trumpet box]
(Spectre)
COMING UP! AND SOME QUESTIONS!
Power steering: Will this work to flush and change the PS fluid? I loosen the bleeder screw, tighten it by hand, then place the same tube I used to bleed the brakes on the bleeder screw and hand loosen it. The fluid will drain out and all I have to do is keep the reservoir full. Once all the old fluid is out and new fluid starts to drain I stop and top off. Sound good or what?
Transmission: How exactly do I "service" it?
Coolant: Tell me if this is right. Remove expansion tank cap. Remove bottom hose of the radiator and drain the coolant into an open container. Remove the thermostat housing plug when the expansion tank is drained. And remove the radiator plug when the coolant is below the top of the radiator. After the draining is done, reattach hose and tighten the clamp. Fill the radiator and plug the radiator plug back on. Fill till you can see coolant in the thermostat housing and put that back on. Then fill up.
Induction Cleaning W/Seafoam: Now I pretty much gave up on this part. I had no idea which hose to use. I heard to use the PCV but I could not find it. I looked on RAVE and I found the PCV filters but not which hose to use. I heard off of the passenger valve cover but I only saw the filter on there and I tried that and it failed. Can somebody take a picture?
Differential Fluid: The two axles have the drain plugs. I unscrew them, drain, screw back on, and refill right?
Transfer Case: All I do is use a 1/2" and remove the fill plug. Put the fill plug back on and put the oil in right? (I bought one of those hand pump things)
Lubricating: I have no idea what to lube or how to lube. I saw 2 slip shafts and drive shafts. But that makes the question mark pop over my head.
Swivels: I see the swivels in the RAVE but have you ever looked at something, tried to read it, and your head just keep skipping over it because you know you can't comprehend what you're looking at with out help? Yeah I'm doing that right at this moment. Help?
- Changed brake pads
(Duralast, I snipped off that connector thing)
- Bled the brakes
(the front passenger side's bleeder screw was stripped. I ended up cutting my hand trying to loosen that thing and so I wasn't able to bleed that one. Any ideas on how to get it out? Or should I just replace the whole thing?)
- Cleaned the throttle body
(I was scared for a second when she wouldn't start, plus the Check Engine light came on. All fixed, and I learned my Diagnostic box under the passenger seat works! I thought it was broken!)
- Changed the spark plugs
(Bosche Plat 4)
- Switched the wire set
(Bosche)
- New distributor and rotor
(forgot)
- Changed the oil [I didn't realize the drain plug SPAT OUT the oil..big mess]
(after I drained the oil I put in ATF and let it run idling for 30 minutes. Supposed to clean it right? Then I switched to Shell Rotella)
- New oil filter
(mobile 1)
- New air filter [took off the trumpet box]
(Spectre)
COMING UP! AND SOME QUESTIONS!
Power steering: Will this work to flush and change the PS fluid? I loosen the bleeder screw, tighten it by hand, then place the same tube I used to bleed the brakes on the bleeder screw and hand loosen it. The fluid will drain out and all I have to do is keep the reservoir full. Once all the old fluid is out and new fluid starts to drain I stop and top off. Sound good or what?
Transmission: How exactly do I "service" it?
Coolant: Tell me if this is right. Remove expansion tank cap. Remove bottom hose of the radiator and drain the coolant into an open container. Remove the thermostat housing plug when the expansion tank is drained. And remove the radiator plug when the coolant is below the top of the radiator. After the draining is done, reattach hose and tighten the clamp. Fill the radiator and plug the radiator plug back on. Fill till you can see coolant in the thermostat housing and put that back on. Then fill up.
Induction Cleaning W/Seafoam: Now I pretty much gave up on this part. I had no idea which hose to use. I heard to use the PCV but I could not find it. I looked on RAVE and I found the PCV filters but not which hose to use. I heard off of the passenger valve cover but I only saw the filter on there and I tried that and it failed. Can somebody take a picture?
Differential Fluid: The two axles have the drain plugs. I unscrew them, drain, screw back on, and refill right?
Transfer Case: All I do is use a 1/2" and remove the fill plug. Put the fill plug back on and put the oil in right? (I bought one of those hand pump things)
Lubricating: I have no idea what to lube or how to lube. I saw 2 slip shafts and drive shafts. But that makes the question mark pop over my head.
Swivels: I see the swivels in the RAVE but have you ever looked at something, tried to read it, and your head just keep skipping over it because you know you can't comprehend what you're looking at with out help? Yeah I'm doing that right at this moment. Help?
Last edited by calebbo; 12-10-2010 at 09:41 AM.
#3
12-09-2010, 09:17 PM
Lets cover one thing at a time.
The transmission, remove the drain plug.
Once empty replace it and then refill with Dexron III.
Simple.
Front and rear diff, remove the fill plug first, then remove the drain plug.
As for the t-case, remove the fill plug, then the drain plug.
Once empty...you guessed it, replace the drain plug, then refill, replace fill plug.
How to tell the diffs and t-case are full, when the new gear lube comes out of the fill hole.
As for the drive shafts...look for the grease zerk.
Lube all of them with a grease gun until fresh grease comes out of all four ends of the u-joints.
When it comes to the slip joints lube them until fresh grease comes out of the gator (the rubber boot)
As for the swivel *****, I use grease in mine.
This is what it calls for, you can buy it at a lawn mower shop, it is called "00" grease.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC3435.cfm
It is grease and gear lube mixed together.
The transmission, remove the drain plug.
Once empty replace it and then refill with Dexron III.
Simple.
Front and rear diff, remove the fill plug first, then remove the drain plug.
As for the t-case, remove the fill plug, then the drain plug.
Once empty...you guessed it, replace the drain plug, then refill, replace fill plug.
How to tell the diffs and t-case are full, when the new gear lube comes out of the fill hole.
As for the drive shafts...look for the grease zerk.
Lube all of them with a grease gun until fresh grease comes out of all four ends of the u-joints.
When it comes to the slip joints lube them until fresh grease comes out of the gator (the rubber boot)
As for the swivel *****, I use grease in mine.
This is what it calls for, you can buy it at a lawn mower shop, it is called "00" grease.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC3435.cfm
It is grease and gear lube mixed together.
#4
12-09-2010, 11:00 PM
You know what they say, never name something unless you want to get attached. Well I gotta say I fell in love with "Claire". She's a 1995 Disco I. Fresh black paint job from the guy I bought her from and completely stock. So here's what I've done to make sure she is happy.
#5
12-10-2010, 09:11 AM
Camel Trophy
I think on your 95 you will have drains on the bottom of your swivels Get under and look.
On your bleeder, buy a new screw and have a tap handy. Get a pair of vise grips and clamp down on that dude and get it out. One it is out, if it comes out clean, just replace with the new one. If it wont, drill out the old one and clean up the threads with the tap. You may want to reomce the caliper and clean ALL of the shavings out before using it.
If you do the induction cleaning, pour 2/3 into a cup (not styrofoam). Find where the line goes from your brake booster to the intake. Take the line off the intake and put your vacuum line you bought onto it. Use that line to suck the fluid SLOWLY out of the cup. It will cough, buck and smoke like a pig. Once you have sucked it in, turn it off and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Start it up and drive it around. It will smoke terribly until it has burned everything out.
Another good idea is to throw some BG44K into the tank, fill it up, and go on a long drive on the highway.
You will want to change your oil sooner than you would, I would suggest 1K after doing a flush. You want to make sure the ATF is all out of there and any deposits are gone that may have loosened up.
Also, keep in mind that your grease zerks may be in the valley, not on the cap as shown in the picture. Look closely and you may have to roll the truck around to gain access to all of them. They are not on the caps from the factory.
On your bleeder, buy a new screw and have a tap handy. Get a pair of vise grips and clamp down on that dude and get it out. One it is out, if it comes out clean, just replace with the new one. If it wont, drill out the old one and clean up the threads with the tap. You may want to reomce the caliper and clean ALL of the shavings out before using it.
If you do the induction cleaning, pour 2/3 into a cup (not styrofoam). Find where the line goes from your brake booster to the intake. Take the line off the intake and put your vacuum line you bought onto it. Use that line to suck the fluid SLOWLY out of the cup. It will cough, buck and smoke like a pig. Once you have sucked it in, turn it off and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Start it up and drive it around. It will smoke terribly until it has burned everything out.
Another good idea is to throw some BG44K into the tank, fill it up, and go on a long drive on the highway.
You will want to change your oil sooner than you would, I would suggest 1K after doing a flush. You want to make sure the ATF is all out of there and any deposits are gone that may have loosened up.
Also, keep in mind that your grease zerks may be in the valley, not on the cap as shown in the picture. Look closely and you may have to roll the truck around to gain access to all of them. They are not on the caps from the factory.
#6
12-10-2010, 10:53 AM
Lets cover one thing at a time.
The transmission, remove the drain plug.
Once empty replace it and then refill with Dexron III.
Simple.
Front and rear diff, remove the fill plug first, then remove the drain plug.
As for the t-case, remove the fill plug, then the drain plug.
Once empty...you guessed it, replace the drain plug, then refill, replace fill plug.
How to tell the diffs and t-case are full, when the new gear lube comes out of the fill hole.
As for the drive shafts...look for the grease zerk.
Lube all of them with a grease gun until fresh grease comes out of all four ends of the u-joints.
When it comes to the slip joints lube them until fresh grease comes out of the gator (the rubber boot)
As for the swivel *****, I use grease in mine.
This is what it calls for, you can buy it at a lawn mower shop, it is called "00" grease.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC3435.cfm
It is grease and gear lube mixed together.
The transmission, remove the drain plug.
Once empty replace it and then refill with Dexron III.
Simple.
Front and rear diff, remove the fill plug first, then remove the drain plug.
As for the t-case, remove the fill plug, then the drain plug.
Once empty...you guessed it, replace the drain plug, then refill, replace fill plug.
How to tell the diffs and t-case are full, when the new gear lube comes out of the fill hole.
As for the drive shafts...look for the grease zerk.
Lube all of them with a grease gun until fresh grease comes out of all four ends of the u-joints.
When it comes to the slip joints lube them until fresh grease comes out of the gator (the rubber boot)
As for the swivel *****, I use grease in mine.
This is what it calls for, you can buy it at a lawn mower shop, it is called "00" grease.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC3435.cfm
It is grease and gear lube mixed together.
As soon as I get my hands clean and on a camera I will take pictures..now where did I put that camera??
I think on your 95 you will have drains on the bottom of your swivels Get under and look.
On your bleeder, buy a new screw and have a tap handy. Get a pair of vise grips and clamp down on that dude and get it out. One it is out, if it comes out clean, just replace with the new one. If it wont, drill out the old one and clean up the threads with the tap. You may want to reomce the caliper and clean ALL of the shavings out before using it.
If you do the induction cleaning, pour 2/3 into a cup (not styrofoam). Find where the line goes from your brake booster to the intake. Take the line off the intake and put your vacuum line you bought onto it. Use that line to suck the fluid SLOWLY out of the cup. It will cough, buck and smoke like a pig. Once you have sucked it in, turn it off and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Start it up and drive it around. It will smoke terribly until it has burned everything out.
Another good idea is to throw some BG44K into the tank, fill it up, and go on a long drive on the highway.
You will want to change your oil sooner than you would, I would suggest 1K after doing a flush. You want to make sure the ATF is all out of there and any deposits are gone that may have loosened up.
Also, keep in mind that your grease zerks may be in the valley, not on the cap as shown in the picture. Look closely and you may have to roll the truck around to gain access to all of them. They are not on the caps from the factory.
On your bleeder, buy a new screw and have a tap handy. Get a pair of vise grips and clamp down on that dude and get it out. One it is out, if it comes out clean, just replace with the new one. If it wont, drill out the old one and clean up the threads with the tap. You may want to reomce the caliper and clean ALL of the shavings out before using it.
If you do the induction cleaning, pour 2/3 into a cup (not styrofoam). Find where the line goes from your brake booster to the intake. Take the line off the intake and put your vacuum line you bought onto it. Use that line to suck the fluid SLOWLY out of the cup. It will cough, buck and smoke like a pig. Once you have sucked it in, turn it off and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Start it up and drive it around. It will smoke terribly until it has burned everything out.
Another good idea is to throw some BG44K into the tank, fill it up, and go on a long drive on the highway.
You will want to change your oil sooner than you would, I would suggest 1K after doing a flush. You want to make sure the ATF is all out of there and any deposits are gone that may have loosened up.
Also, keep in mind that your grease zerks may be in the valley, not on the cap as shown in the picture. Look closely and you may have to roll the truck around to gain access to all of them. They are not on the caps from the factory.
#7
12-10-2010, 07:42 PM
Yes you need to change your oil again after ~500 miles.
Had you not done the engine flush you would not have had to, the Rotella with flush your engine slowly.
Doing a engine flush will break loose all kinds of stuff quickly and your oil filter will get clogged.
No more engine flushes, just stick with the high detergent diesel oil.
We'll get you schooled the correct way.
Had you not done the engine flush you would not have had to, the Rotella with flush your engine slowly.
Doing a engine flush will break loose all kinds of stuff quickly and your oil filter will get clogged.
No more engine flushes, just stick with the high detergent diesel oil.
We'll get you schooled the correct way.
#9
12-11-2010, 01:57 PM
#10
12-11-2010, 06:27 PM