been using that rotella and big filter. she runs great i think, cold.

wondering about six month old front cover and chain job by the inde here. that and ten other things. gotta get on with the recs and probably oil pressure too.

and what's this 1313 code really mean, new cats?

 

Now I'm almost sure mine is the same tick. My plenum seems to rattle a bit too.

 

My old 283 ran best on Castrol GTX 20W50 PLUS a can or two of STP.

They are farm trucks once removed, look at the Series Trucks. I read that the fellow who designed then based them on the US Army Jeep and even used one of their engines in his first prototype.

The original Range Rover was designed by the nephew of the company. He was a land speed record holder and that was his motivation for the RR that eventually lead to the Discovery.The first Range Rovers target market was the wealthy Ranchers and Oi Field Engineers who needed a work truck that could also double as a Night On The Town Car.

If you really feel you need to tear into it, then by all means pursue it with vigor.

I am a Gemini, one side of me demands perfection in all areas of endeavors. The pracitical side says "Hey Hold on a Minute, DO WE REALLY WANT TO TAKE THIS ON" The perfectionist says " Damn the Torpedos, Full Speed Ahead".

So Go for Gusto. You only live once.

Have you had much of a chance to drive it hard yet? How do it sound when you accelerate? If the noise increases with the RPM's then that is more significant than a tick at idle. So use your best judgement.

GO FOR IT.

 

And remember young Jedi, Lucas oil stabilizer can be run at the 50% ratio in a worn engine. Maybe just until you take it to auction, but it still runs. In some hot places, they run 60 weight oil in the Rover. I mention this for diagnostic purposes only.

 

Some of the older four cylinder German cars I have worked on respond well to Marvel Mystery oil. It seems to un-gum the lifters. I ran it in a five cylinder Audi I owned years ago. I used it for two oil service and on the next went back to straight Mobile 1. It helped alot but there was no way I was tearing into it for the little noise that was left. Thoughts anyone?

 

I would tend to agree, add the Marvel Mystery Oil, drive for a week, change oil to 20w-50, these engines LOVE 20w-50, a friend of mine who lives in Australia uses 20w-60 because it gets so hot there.

 

I would agree with both Spike and Savannah. Try what Spike said first. If that does not quiet it down at least some, then consider adding the Lucas Stabilizer.
And remember young Jedi, Lucas oil stabilizer can be run at the 50% ratio in a worn engine.

They have that little counter top demo device, with the hand powered gears in it with Lucas in one and not in the other. The difference is amazing.I was not aware of running it in that high a concentration.

But if those attempts work, you saved a lot of wasted effort. If it still ticks or gets worse, then break out the wrenches.

 

I have seen a few shows where they basically remove the radiator and front fenders and hood when doing extensive engine work. That way the access to everything is so much better.

Other options would include trying to do it with poor access or pulling the motor completely and doing it on a jackstand.

I would like opinions on the top method, removing wings, hood, radiator and such.

 

I posted the Lucas comment as entertainment. You have a lot of other things to try first before you worry about doctoring this horse up to sneak into the auction. First, locate the noise. Check oil pressure, that sort of thing. If it is in the valve train that could be easier to fix than bottom end. MMO cleans up a lot of stuck lifters.

 

I think even if you remove the removables- the inner wings are still big in the way. Maybe the front end?

Edit: The rust post shows a side shot of what's in the way.