my tick....
#31
re: Next service- factory spec oil and monitor.
Rotella at 15W40 (the basic stuff) is factory spec, certainly in climates above 32F.
Please note that 10W30 is not speced for above 95F. Already close to that near me, and certainly above that around engine at idle in heavy traffic.
For inquiring minds, here is the oil page from your shop manual (you know you want to download the whole thing so you can get faster answers 24/7). Also pix of 180,000 mile engine that belongs to Street Wolf, who changes at 3000 miles and uses Rotella and Castrol.
Rotella at 15W40 (the basic stuff) is factory spec, certainly in climates above 32F.
Please note that 10W30 is not speced for above 95F. Already close to that near me, and certainly above that around engine at idle in heavy traffic.
For inquiring minds, here is the oil page from your shop manual (you know you want to download the whole thing so you can get faster answers 24/7). Also pix of 180,000 mile engine that belongs to Street Wolf, who changes at 3000 miles and uses Rotella and Castrol.
#32
mechanic guesses lifters by the sound of it.
took awhile but with some pressure (2300 rpms sustained) the tick finally reared. we thought we could hear the faintest tick with the alum stick but it was very evident when it arrived. it quieted down pretty fast this time with release of the gas.
said to not drive it hard until something is done about it...clean or replace he says.
marvel mystery oil looking good for short term......in the oil or gas, how much?
took awhile but with some pressure (2300 rpms sustained) the tick finally reared. we thought we could hear the faintest tick with the alum stick but it was very evident when it arrived. it quieted down pretty fast this time with release of the gas.
said to not drive it hard until something is done about it...clean or replace he says.
marvel mystery oil looking good for short term......in the oil or gas, how much?
#36
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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Slang, One thing you might want to do is to get new valve cover gaskets and go ahead and remove the valve covers on each side and see how badly gunked up that area is. That would be a good indication of what the rest of the motor passages may look like. Take your teardown efforts one step at a time. Go as far as you see you need to.
Did you get the 12 point 8mm deep socket for the valve cover bolts yet or do you have one of those?
Advance usually stocks those mechanics stethoscopes as well as PepBoys.
Did you get the 12 point 8mm deep socket for the valve cover bolts yet or do you have one of those?
Advance usually stocks those mechanics stethoscopes as well as PepBoys.
Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 04-13-2012 at 01:54 PM.
#37
#39
#40
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Another thing that comes in handy is a magnetic dish to put the little nuts and bolts in. You can make one up with a steel pie pan and a small magnet. That way the screws and nuts stay in the pan and don't fly all over the place.
My youngest son was helping me one day with the exhaust manifolds and he dropped a nut right into the y-pipe, took a long retriever to get that one out, thank goodness it was not one of the copper nuts you sometimes see.
The pic Savannah posted of that one was the cleanest I have ever seen. Some of them are full of black goo clogging everything...
Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 04-13-2012 at 01:53 PM.