Copy that. Thanks, very useful. Happy to see you have 242,000 mi. and still going. cheers.

 

Charlie is right about the cost. I paid $400 to have mine re-cored. The advantages were: 1. I know it fits properly. 2. It is brass and copper 3. It will last another 20 years. (which may well be more than most trucks so perhaps this is not a real advantage)

The extra $100 for a three row brass and copper unit, IMO is worth the premium over the Nissens.

Many have had good (and not so good) experiences with inexpensive aluminium and plastic units. I didn't want to play that game but everybody's situation is a bit different so do what works for you.

 

So Charlie got backed up and can't do my rad just yet, which gave me time to ponder:

- Why bother with Charlie and his $90 flush when I can either attempt a flush myself? esp since he's not actually lifting the rad out but just flushing in place?
Or just look at the whole thing as sensible maintenance, and replace the 23yr old and 5-owner radiator itself?
My plan now is to attempt a flush myself, install a new temp sensor to ECU, install new Stant 180 - then go on long drives.

My core issue remains: with all parts checked out (cept the rad), no fluid loss, no sign of HG failure - why are my temps rising to 225-235 degrees
ONLY after driving for more than 1 hour, and without AC?

 

Update: new Nissens radiator from LK8 ($321 incl tax) coming next week, but had a long drive to take, so:
Shop pressure-hose flushed from expansion tank and then bleed screw - then backflushed from top rad hose.
Replaced heater hoses. Replaced new 195 T-stat with new Stant Superstat 180.
Fresh coolant, and bled by running with heater on, and expansion cap off. Heat came on at 180. Kept idling for another ten minutes.
No dash gurgles.
Runs 175-185 in city traffic now. Goes up to 195 with AC on. Up to 205 if stuck in traffic for more than 15 minutes.

Damn - still goes up to 232 running at 65mph highway, and after 20 minutes.
Hope the new rad rocks my world.
Will have oil/filter and transmission fluid changed just to be safe.

 

PROBLEM SOLVED: thanks to this forum, and big shout out to JVARNADOE !
Finally got the Nissens installed ($305 at LK8 ).
One hour city driving with AC -- 185 to 190f
160 mile highway at 65-70mph with AC -- 178-185f !!
Refused to believe my eyes, and kept switching between DashCommand and Torque Pro lol.
a good day.
(pic attached of 23-yr old culprit - 40% clogged and ugly)

 

Keep the original and acid flush it. Keep it as a spare for when your tanks eventually blast off....... lol.

 

copy that. exactly my thought. bastard's gotta suffer for all the grief it gave me.

 

After using these many times I know you will get very good results with the NISSENS Rad.

And looking at the condition of your old rad I would 100% save it and recore whenever you find a shop with decent rates.
The biggest advantage of the OE rad is the tanks and the size and material used in the oil coolers.
Most aftermarket oil coolers are a small stacked plate design.

OE oil coolers look something like this ( worth saving ) >

 

Thank you for the detailed info. I'll definitely do that.
Really enjoying the Nissens. Lined up a bunch of errands today just so I could drive
for over two hours city/highway with AC -- 178 to 187 degrees. woohoo.

 

I'm glad the Nissens worked out for you. Mine is still cooling like a champ. The cheapest I could find locally for a recore on the old rad was $600. I'll hang on to the old plugged up beotch and potentially recore it if I end up having issues with the Nissens at some point.

I've saved all the old parts I've replaced on this rig. Maybe I'll make some piece of artwork out of the pile someday. When I worked at Disney one of the artists made lamps out of pipes as a side gig. I asked if he could re-purpose one of my big old front brake rotors from my BMW 545. The below lamp is now in my garage. Turned out pretty nicely!