Need Advice and Parts ('97 Disco cooling problem)
#1
Need Advice and Parts ('97 Disco cooling problem)
Shop is telling me I need:
Radiator, Fan clutch, thermostat, and Lower Hose.
They claim ~$800 just for parts and want $1600 parts and labor.
I have some concerns about whether I can tackle this on my own and really concerned about finding the parts (special tools, etc.)
Can someone share their wisdom, and parts supplier info?
Thanks
Radiator, Fan clutch, thermostat, and Lower Hose.
They claim ~$800 just for parts and want $1600 parts and labor.
I have some concerns about whether I can tackle this on my own and really concerned about finding the parts (special tools, etc.)
Can someone share their wisdom, and parts supplier info?
Thanks
#2
Rovahfarm.com
Lower hose, $29.95
Thermostat - https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...rmostat-51327/
Fan clutch Imperial 215157 from Advance Auto $47.99 (requires drilling fan mounting hole to take 10mm bolt)
Radiator you can probably have recored at a radiator shop. I had mine done last summer for $480 for a heavy duty core (I removed it myself).
Sounds like dealer prices. There's nothing complicated about replacing any of the parts. You can probably do it, or any competent mechanic can.
The only special tool needed is a fan clutch nut tool which most auto parts stores these days will lend you, with a deposit (basically you buy it then get a full refund on return).
Lower hose, $29.95
Thermostat - https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...rmostat-51327/
Fan clutch Imperial 215157 from Advance Auto $47.99 (requires drilling fan mounting hole to take 10mm bolt)
Radiator you can probably have recored at a radiator shop. I had mine done last summer for $480 for a heavy duty core (I removed it myself).
Sounds like dealer prices. There's nothing complicated about replacing any of the parts. You can probably do it, or any competent mechanic can.
The only special tool needed is a fan clutch nut tool which most auto parts stores these days will lend you, with a deposit (basically you buy it then get a full refund on return).
Last edited by antichrist; 03-11-2013 at 06:04 PM.
#3
If you want to buy the fan wrench itself, I was able to get one from Rovers North for $16 with a 32 and 36mm end on it. Can't seem to find it on their website, but you can always give them a ring. Atlantic British has them for $45, or you can "rent" it from the auto parts store - the set I borrowed from them didn't fit perfectly, but it worked - bought the cheapie wrench for my truck tool kit.
There's plenty of room in there, and a lot of write-ups/videos online to walk you through it. The only reason I didn't do the thermostat myself is that I was short on time and didn't want to deal with coolant all over my garage floor.
If and when my radiator fails I plan on buying one of the aluminum eBay ones if I can't find a shop to core mine. Seems to have gotten favorable reviews here once you get one that's not broken.
There's plenty of room in there, and a lot of write-ups/videos online to walk you through it. The only reason I didn't do the thermostat myself is that I was short on time and didn't want to deal with coolant all over my garage floor.
If and when my radiator fails I plan on buying one of the aluminum eBay ones if I can't find a shop to core mine. Seems to have gotten favorable reviews here once you get one that's not broken.
#4
Brand new radiator is $600 alone.
They are not hard jobs, replace all radiator hoses at the same time, Atlantic British sells a cooling system hose kit for like $150, all the hoses you will need.
The fan clutch is actually pretty cheap now too, under $100, just make sure you do not get the heavy duty one.
OEM temp thermostat is 88*C (190*F), I dont know where you live, but personally I'd stay away from the colder t-stat.
A long discussion about engine oil temps with a mechanic taught me alot about t-stat temps.
They are not hard jobs, replace all radiator hoses at the same time, Atlantic British sells a cooling system hose kit for like $150, all the hoses you will need.
The fan clutch is actually pretty cheap now too, under $100, just make sure you do not get the heavy duty one.
OEM temp thermostat is 88*C (190*F), I dont know where you live, but personally I'd stay away from the colder t-stat.
A long discussion about engine oil temps with a mechanic taught me alot about t-stat temps.
#5
#6
As for the work, it is very simple. The radiator comes out with a few bolts, and minimal loss of fluids like oil and transmission. Have done mine so many times that it is like a 15 minute job. Two small bolts at top. Detach tranny and oil cooler lines (little drool). Drain rad by break loose lower hose (no petcock). Once you get a wrench on the fan clutch to water pump bolt a strong and sharp slap with a hammer toward the battery frees it.
This is actually a good DIY project as you are standing up, rather than under the truck. No ramps needed. No complex tools (I used a Crescent adjustable wrench on the fan clutch).
Here's a view of the radiator.
And I agree the temp is important for oil as well, and 160F would be too low. I run the 180 stat, and in the 90+ summer I get 183 - 187F, with occasional excursions into the 190's. I was spiking to 217 or above before working on thermostat and radiator. The Mercedes shop forums advise on 185F for optimal oil health, and my Kia van has 245K with a factory 180 stat (Spike owns one also). I think once you have an older Rover, anything you can do to keep temps in reason should be considered.
As for needing a new radiator, the advantage of the D1 is the copper and brass radiator. An indy rad shop can unsolder the side tanks, rod out the calcium, and hot flush with citric acid. $40 - $100. If core is not leaking or needs rebuilding. Just take rad to them. Thermostat is $10, plus a gasket. New 50/50 premix green coolant. And upper and lower hose. I'm thinking more like $200 or less total DIY.... New aluminum rad is $235 on line.
Pix of what calcium can look like inside
This is actually a good DIY project as you are standing up, rather than under the truck. No ramps needed. No complex tools (I used a Crescent adjustable wrench on the fan clutch).
Here's a view of the radiator.
And I agree the temp is important for oil as well, and 160F would be too low. I run the 180 stat, and in the 90+ summer I get 183 - 187F, with occasional excursions into the 190's. I was spiking to 217 or above before working on thermostat and radiator. The Mercedes shop forums advise on 185F for optimal oil health, and my Kia van has 245K with a factory 180 stat (Spike owns one also). I think once you have an older Rover, anything you can do to keep temps in reason should be considered.
As for needing a new radiator, the advantage of the D1 is the copper and brass radiator. An indy rad shop can unsolder the side tanks, rod out the calcium, and hot flush with citric acid. $40 - $100. If core is not leaking or needs rebuilding. Just take rad to them. Thermostat is $10, plus a gasket. New 50/50 premix green coolant. And upper and lower hose. I'm thinking more like $200 or less total DIY.... New aluminum rad is $235 on line.
Pix of what calcium can look like inside
#7
Radiator, Fan clutch, thermostat, and Lower Hose..I did my 96' D1 with a After market Radiator $200 on sale. Reg $240.00. Fan clutch $160 [i figured i paid too much and lower hose was $35.00. 36mm wrench $12. I am not a mechanic but was able to get it all in within a few hrs. For me the hardest part was getting the lower hose on but no real biggy. Radiator from a online warehouse. beg the carrier to be genital. Upper hose was easy to get local but got the lower one off eBay. Land Rover wanted $130. but that wrench is needed. Not hard to get but prices do vary. Clutch fan should run about $55 but my local stores are asking $130
#10