Need help identifying some wires!
#11
Perfect. I now need to find the 6 disc changer along with a radio that supports the cd. Anyone know who may have one?
A.. Dismantlers.
B. Salvage yard
C. Why would you want one, newer radios have more features, like IPod input, etc.
D. Important point, some D1s used "diversity antennas, that is one on each of the fixed side glass, with a small amp in the head liner for each. One is FM. One is AM/FM. My PO hooked up FM only and did not leave Sony radio "keys", so I have no AM and am as such "Rush Restricted"
A.. Dismantlers.
B. Salvage yard
C. Why would you want one, newer radios have more features, like IPod input, etc.
D. Important point, some D1s used "diversity antennas, that is one on each of the fixed side glass, with a small amp in the head liner for each. One is FM. One is AM/FM. My PO hooked up FM only and did not leave Sony radio "keys", so I have no AM and am as such "Rush Restricted"
#12
Thanks guys!
What we call windshields, the Brits call a windscreen. Fenders are wings. Hood is a bonnet.
The underseat CD changer was a blunder for a vehicle that one of the prime attrributes is wading or fording water. As soon as the water enters the cabin, the CD changer is toast.
The factory head unit is not worth what most sellers ask for just because it is the original. If you want a good sound system, forget the early DI sound system. If you get an original unit from most places you will spend hundreds for a marginal sound system just because it is OE LR.
The SD did not come with the twin sunroofs. I have seen on here that they could be ordered with various options, so that accounts for the rear air. Cloth manual seats were standard on the SD.
Building one harness meant that all vehicles got the same harness which makes it simplier than trying to manage multiple configuration harness, that would be a logistical nightmare on the assembly line. So don't be alarmed if you see extra unused connectors in various places.
There was a thread today about wiring connectors for roof lights, on that post was a link that had multiple 12 vdc connectors thatcould easily be added to an existing but unused power wire.
My biggest concern about the unused wires is the possibility of something shorting 12 volts to the body somewhere and causing a problem. These harnesses were cheaply constructed with splices concealed within various bundles, the overwrap is not robust and tends to come off, and some sections have no overwrap at all, just a mass of wires to get damaged.
Lift your front floorboard carpets and pads and take a look at the fiasco underneath that they called a wiring loom (another british term). Pitiful for a high dollar vehicle.
I would expect that in a Hundia or a KIA, but I was disappointed to see the LR looms.
They look like they were made in a subculture in a remote part of the world with very little available resources or some where in the USSR.
The underseat CD changer was a blunder for a vehicle that one of the prime attrributes is wading or fording water. As soon as the water enters the cabin, the CD changer is toast.
The factory head unit is not worth what most sellers ask for just because it is the original. If you want a good sound system, forget the early DI sound system. If you get an original unit from most places you will spend hundreds for a marginal sound system just because it is OE LR.
The SD did not come with the twin sunroofs. I have seen on here that they could be ordered with various options, so that accounts for the rear air. Cloth manual seats were standard on the SD.
Building one harness meant that all vehicles got the same harness which makes it simplier than trying to manage multiple configuration harness, that would be a logistical nightmare on the assembly line. So don't be alarmed if you see extra unused connectors in various places.
There was a thread today about wiring connectors for roof lights, on that post was a link that had multiple 12 vdc connectors thatcould easily be added to an existing but unused power wire.
My biggest concern about the unused wires is the possibility of something shorting 12 volts to the body somewhere and causing a problem. These harnesses were cheaply constructed with splices concealed within various bundles, the overwrap is not robust and tends to come off, and some sections have no overwrap at all, just a mass of wires to get damaged.
Lift your front floorboard carpets and pads and take a look at the fiasco underneath that they called a wiring loom (another british term). Pitiful for a high dollar vehicle.
I would expect that in a Hundia or a KIA, but I was disappointed to see the LR looms.
They look like they were made in a subculture in a remote part of the world with very little available resources or some where in the USSR.
Any more thoughts on the "cooler" wires that is up front? Could I use the "cooler" for something else?
Thanks!!!
#14
Savannah,
The wire colors are red with stripped blue on one side. Yellow on the other, which is solid. The picture confirms that.
IMAG0291 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
The wire colors are red with stripped blue on one side. Yellow on the other, which is solid. The picture confirms that.
IMAG0291 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
#15
#20
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There are a few other unused lines that would probably be much safer to use. Or run a separate fused wire. You have to be really careful when you going changing the existing wiring that you do not create an unintentional circuit and cause problems that you do not need.
One such thing to avoid is the "fix" known as the rear window bypass kit that AB sells. One fellow member reported ac blower issues after installing that kit.
The best fix for the rear windows being intermittent or unoperable is to remove the circuit board from the window ECU and reflow all the solder joints.
The same logic applies to tapping power from existing sources. If it is truly unused and does not power other items, it may be fine. I would advise you carefully examine the Electrical portions of the RAVE, as LR used various fuse taps to power a multitude of unrelayed circuits, but does show all of that in the power distribution, fuse data, and ground distribution drawings.
The LR electrical drawings are unlike any I have ever worked with on any other equipment, but if you take the time to read thru their info, they do explain the unlogical fashion that they employed. Guess it is a British thing or something like that.
Maybe their electrical designers were educated in Poland or the USSR or Slovakia or Uganda or Cuba or somewhere like that.
One such thing to avoid is the "fix" known as the rear window bypass kit that AB sells. One fellow member reported ac blower issues after installing that kit.
The best fix for the rear windows being intermittent or unoperable is to remove the circuit board from the window ECU and reflow all the solder joints.
The same logic applies to tapping power from existing sources. If it is truly unused and does not power other items, it may be fine. I would advise you carefully examine the Electrical portions of the RAVE, as LR used various fuse taps to power a multitude of unrelayed circuits, but does show all of that in the power distribution, fuse data, and ground distribution drawings.
The LR electrical drawings are unlike any I have ever worked with on any other equipment, but if you take the time to read thru their info, they do explain the unlogical fashion that they employed. Guess it is a British thing or something like that.
Maybe their electrical designers were educated in Poland or the USSR or Slovakia or Uganda or Cuba or somewhere like that.
Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 10-23-2011 at 06:07 PM.