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Need help with removing the 2" suspension lift

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  #11  
Old 06-23-2011, 08:54 AM
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Well, when the time comes and you feel like you can't get anything more out of it you call a wrecker and with or without wheels they'll just winch it up onto a flatbed and take it for you. You could probably get 500$ for the body because it's all aluminum.
The front sprigs I have are stock. Idk what I would want for them. I need rear window moldings. If you want to part with those. I need a wiper switch from the stalk. I need the shift illuminator plate of it's not split. Probably need the window seals most. Both rears and the cargo? That'd be considerably less shipping than the window seals. Thoughts? Are they in good shape?
 
  #12  
Old 06-23-2011, 08:55 AM
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I meant you shipping the window seals would cost way less than me shipping the springs. Sorry, wish I could edit posts on iphone
 
  #13  
Old 06-23-2011, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by turf63
I meant you shipping the window seals would cost way less than me shipping the springs. Sorry, wish I could edit posts on iphone
I'll think about it. Shipping for your springs would be pricey. I'll take pics of the window seals though. I'll upload them later today when I get out of work.
 
  #14  
Old 06-23-2011, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by turf63
Well, when the time comes and you feel like you can't get anything more out of it you call a wrecker and with or without wheels they'll just winch it up onto a flatbed and take it for you. You could probably get 500$ for the body because it's all aluminum.
The front sprigs I have are stock. Idk what I would want for them. I need rear window moldings. If you want to part with those. I need a wiper switch from the stalk. I need the shift illuminator plate of it's not split. Probably need the window seals most. Both rears and the cargo? That'd be considerably less shipping than the window seals. Thoughts? Are they in good shape?
Hey thanks for the tip regarding the aluminum!!!!!!!!
 
  #15  
Old 06-23-2011, 11:59 AM
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You need to support the truck under the frame. Your basic 2Ton kack stands won't lift high enough for the axles to hang down to pull the springs or to get under the vehicle really. You'd need the 6Ton jack stands but those are gonna run at least $50 a set. Or you could buy some solid cinder blocks and support the frame with those. Ghetto as all hell but cheap and it'll work.
 
  #16  
Old 06-23-2011, 12:04 PM
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Reg jackstands and some wood will do the same thing. Whatever is cheap and safe.
 
  #17  
Old 06-23-2011, 12:28 PM
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Just a heads up - regular cinder blocks will crumble under the weight unless placed "correctly". <-- air quotes because there really is not a correct way to use them! Sacked - in the same manner you would see a wall built should support it - however, most people would not use them in that fashion - at least they have not every time I have seen them used. They are typically laid flat, or on vertical end (the tall way), both which will result in a crumbled pile of dust.
 
  #18  
Old 06-23-2011, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by groundandpound
Just a heads up - regular cinder blocks will crumble under the weight unless placed "correctly". <-- air quotes because there really is not a correct way to use them! Sacked - in the same manner you would see a wall built should support it - however, most people would not use them in that fashion - at least they have not every time I have seen them used. They are typically laid flat, or on vertical end (the tall way), both which will result in a crumbled pile of dust.
Thanks you guys for the imput, I'm going to autozone today to see what they have and possibly buy the first of two sets. Don't really have any strong wood hanging around so perhaps in the long run it would be easier and cheaper to just buy the bigger jack stands. But we will see. On a second note: when I get all four jack stands positioned and the rover raised via the frame so to let Tue axles hang freely... Then what? Obviously remove all four tires, but do I need to remove the calipers and rotors as well? I imagine that there will be enough room for me to reach in and work on the springs WITHOUT removing the brakes but whatever works. What's the first things I should tackle? And as always ... Any special tools needed?
 
  #19  
Old 06-23-2011, 02:02 PM
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Wait to pull the axles and suspension until after you pull the engine/tranny/t-case combo.
 
  #20  
Old 06-23-2011, 02:13 PM
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Once you have the frame supported, loosen the shocks. Place a bottle jack between the axle and frame at one of the wheels. Jack the axle down. The jack will help the axle drop further than it normally would on its own, but will not damage anything. You should now be able to easily remove the spring. No need to remove calipers/rotors. They will be pushed down out of the way when you drop the axle down. How far the axle can be jacked is usually limited by brake lines and ABS lines.
 


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