New bat+alt speedometer bouncing
#1
New bat+alt speedometer bouncing
Just replaced my alternator from a trusted local source with a brand new one and bought a brand new battery as well. Driving to work today my speakers started to pop and the radio shut off then back on. The speedometer also started to bounce around. The same thing happened a few days ago which led me to replace a noisy alternator and a battery with a dead cell. I'm stuck at work right now and Im sure when I go to leave the battery will be dead. Another issue iv had for a week or so is an intermittent high idle after cleaning then replacing my IACV, i could feel/hear the idle was very high this morning then on the way to work felt normal and very smooth. We had a lot of rain yesterday and Im not sure if the issues are related, I apologize for the grammar I am at work.
My new alternator has a threaded 'bolt' instead of the plug where the tachometer attaches, so I don't have have tach functions untill I fit one. I also do not have any CELs. If anyone could point me the right direction, or has had similar issues that would save my sanity.
Thank you
My new alternator has a threaded 'bolt' instead of the plug where the tachometer attaches, so I don't have have tach functions untill I fit one. I also do not have any CELs. If anyone could point me the right direction, or has had similar issues that would save my sanity.
Thank you
#2
Meter volts from alternator when at idle with just the basics on, no extras. 13.8 - 14.4 expected. Popping and bouncing indicates to me the possibility that volts are going much higher, like over 15. Also would check black wire from battery, follow it all the way to frame near bottom of radiator, needs to be clean and tight. As do connections in the front terminals of the underhood fuse box.
#3
Just jumped it. I removed the cables, idle was lumpy I tried to shift into drive and it wouldn't. Then it died on me again. Hey savannah, the alternator ground wire connects to the bottom most terminal on the alt correct?
Update: I disconnected the alternator and still had a draw, I disconnected the negative bat lead and the drain stopped. I must have a faulty ground issue. The fuse box ground looked clean, the engine frame ground looks nasty. I'll clean it ASAP.
Update: I disconnected the alternator and still had a draw, I disconnected the negative bat lead and the drain stopped. I must have a faulty ground issue. The fuse box ground looked clean, the engine frame ground looks nasty. I'll clean it ASAP.
Last edited by bcbp; 07-29-2012 at 05:12 PM.
#4
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#9
I think that may be my problem, I crawled under there after work and the positive connection on the starter looked pretty green but tight. Any tips to trouble shoot it? Should I just remove the starter and scrub the terminals? I'm not sure how old it is, looks like fun removing it. The belt is routed correctly.
-Thank you
-Thank you