do what spike says and remove your ABS fuse. takes it back to normal brakes.

 

And the failing ABS causes that "ratcheting". Mine caused me and my family to sail through an intersection because I couldn't stop. ABS fuse yanked - happy braking ever since.
The yellow light stays on though, and that may cause issues as well for passing an inspection. There is a link for troubleshooting the system if you find yourself needing to have a "clear dash" for the inspectors.
In MD - I could not have ANY dash or warning lights on for my inspection - including the ABS. I ended up following the troubleshooting guide, tapping a couple of the sensors back into place and all was "golden" for the inspection. However, on the trip back home from the inspection, light came back on and that is when it failed and I sailed...
Got home and checked here...fuse yanked, and I will pull the bulb to pass next time if I need to.

 

Why don't you remove the ABS light bulb from the dash?

 

Because the pretty yellow light amuses me!

Seriously - The light itself does not bother me in the least. However, I will if/when I need to get it inspected again, as for now, I am hoping that it burns itself out and I don't have to rip apart the dash! Lord knows the kind of carnage I would cause doing that. For reference, I have cracked more than 5 toilets bolting the tank to the base...not exerting hardly ANY pressure in my opinion. But apparently the tanks have a different opinion. All that to say that I just don't have a whole lot of "gentle" in me. If it does not move the FIRST time, I just try harder... Why would I use a plumbing reference here? Because I suspect that if you are "enterprising" enough to work on you Landy - household repairs are also something you can relate to.

 

You should realize sooner or later (after breaking some high dollar parts) that finesse is much better than brute force on these machines. Keep in mind, it ain't a new Rover, it is an old Rover, just new to you.

The "Binnacle" is pretty easy to pull, but you may still break some stuff as it is mostly plastic and gets brittle with age. The mounting screws anchors for my dash light dimmer broke off and it flops around but I will eventually remount it, probably with Superglue...

Buy lots of PB Blaster for all the mechanical stuff. Spray liberally at least 24 hours prior to disassembly, I usually go 72 hours on the more difficult bolts/nuts. These things corrode notoriously. I also purchase all new mounting hardware for almost everything I work on. I have learned from experience to do that. That way you are not stuck needing hardware for reassembly.

I use primarily Rovers North or Atlantic British for most legitimate replacement parts.
I have never had a problen with anything from Rovers North. I get their website on the screen and look up what I need, then call them with it still on-screen. They handle only Rover Parts and are all very knowledgeable about all the Rovers ever made, as they all own and drive several various ones. They are great about answering any questions for you as well and you can trust them to be correct, not like the local parts houses. They even went so far as to buyout all existing inventory of parts from LR when they decided to discontinue support of certain vehicles. I do not know of anyone else who has done so much to help us maintain Our Rovers.

A friend of mine here just recently bought a DII after 20 years of Jeep ownership. He and his son still have five Jeeps between them. He says Jeep stands for: Just Empty Every Pocket as far as cost to maintain.

With some luck and determination, you should enjoy your Discovery, if not, there's always Craig's List.............

 

removing the bulb from the dash does not make your ABS go away, and neither does removing the fuse for that matter, removing the bulb "hides" a faulty ABS system, and pulling the fuse "disables" it. When it comes to a safety inspection though, any legitimate safety inspector will know the truck has ABS when they look under the hood but he won't know it is hidden or disabled. If it was me inspecting the system then I would say the system is faulty and then fail him(and suggest he replace the bulb in the dash as a place to start!). Similar to the way an OBD2 emissions inspector would fail most of us if the check engine bulb was removed.

now if you want to get around this problem without spending any money, I might suggest pulling the fuse and then reading the rave manual schematics and finding the wire that turns on the ABS bulb,and the wire that turns on the CEL bulb (as long as your CEL isn't staying on) and then cut the ABS wire and attach the cluster end to the CEL wire. this will then turn the ABS bulb on and off with the CEL bulb and nobody will ever notice!

 

DD -
Oh, I have already realized it. (Hopefully admitting I HAVE a problem.....)

And I have figured that out. It's not so much 5that I am "heavy handed", just that my hands are so darn heavy...

 

Well I have size 14 feet and 2xl golf gloves are tight on me as is a 2xl golf shirt. I am used to being like a bull in a China Shop in my younger days. I have finally developed a light touch. Like Sam Snead said regarding how to grip a Golf Club, " You want to hold it like you would a baby bird, just tight enough to keep it from getting away but not tight enough to hurt it."

You must learn to be gentle with these things. I use lots of PB Blaster and use as long a lever arm as possible when loosening something with a slow steady pull gradually increasing the applied force. Less breakage, especially on the fingers, knuckles, and other critical parts. I don't beat stuff apart or ****** it hard unless all else has failed.

 

Yeah the thread I started was pretty humorous (we talked, fought, and talked some more). Here's the rundown on checking the ABS so you don't have to read through 918,273,912,781,293 pages.

1. find the blue 5 pin connector under your driver side kick panel
2. on the drivers side take off the kick panel
3. locate the >>metal harness thing<< (my technical term) to the right against the wall on the right
4. find the green relay on the right, it shouldn't be on the metal prong. You will know what I am talking about when you find the metal harness thing. (Rmbr Green on Right)
5. put the key in pos 2
6. take out the relay
7. place a paper clip in the terminals with the BLACK and BLACK/PINK wires
8. Look at your dash
9. Read the codes
10. Pull the paperclip after each code to erase, and flip the key to pos 1 then 2 again

Wow, I always have 10 step DIY haha. Good luck, I think I did that in order. I forgot it's been a little while since I crawled under the wheel to do that

And yeah, I took out the fuse under the hood. Just didn't want to mess with it and the sensors cost a lot of money and blah blah blah. Just telling you what I did, not what you SHOULD do. My own opinion.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
My safeguard from an argument

 

You sure you don't play for the Steelers?