First, where are you located? If we knew we could suggest part suppliers easier. You could have gotten a brandy new recovery tank from Rovers North for $39 with a guarantee.

Don't sweat the PS fluid you added. PS fluid will not hurt anything, it actually has more anti foaming agents than ATF does.

 

I'm in Los Angeles, I thought I put it in my profile a few years ago when I registered but I guess not. In any case, I knew it was a bit expensive but I wanted to have it before a trip this weekend, plus he had a nice bumper cover with lights still on that I needed so it worked out.

By the way, I know people have experience with WS Power Steering Stop leak, but anyone tried the oil leak? I was thinking of adding two or three cap fulls to my oil and gearbox just to preempt any leaks that might be coming, although right now it's been bone dry besides the coolant from the crack and the previous light PS leak (fingers still crossed).

 

Since you are in the LA area, you could have ordered a new one from british pacific, had it next day and paid less. There are a few self serve junk yards around that always seem to have a d1 or to in the yard. Pick a Part in Monrovia and U Pull Parts in Sunvalley are ones i've had good success at. As a matter of fact, there was a D1 with a full set of Old Man Emu shocks and springs at the Monrovia yard yesterday.

 

HOLY CRAP! I Screwed up too!!! Our Disco was leaking PSF all over the place and I was planning on replacing the pump in the near future. The LR had a bottle of PSF next to the jack and like an idiot I have been using it to keep the reservoir topped off. So when I replace the pump do I need to replace the lines too? What damage have I done by running Power Steering Fluid instead of ATF? You guys are great this is a good catch!

 

I have used the WS oil conditioner in my engine 2? years ago now, the trick is to drive for at least 2 hours after adding it.

 

I also have a leaky expansion tank.... I have found a white one at a local salvage yard, also picking up some lug nuts and whatever else looks good. Could a leaky expansion tank cause the truck to over heat on short drives around town.. I have yet to get above nine on my gauge and on the same ticket have not had my reader hooked up on the few times that it seems to overheat. I drive around for a short time around town and when I stop coolant is pouring out and the fan will stay on for about 5-10 minutes... I hope this is only the tank that needs to be replaced

 

I still need to get a new expansion tank. Only 89k miles on it now(that means in 18 months I've only put 2k miles on it)...hopefully I order the tank and replace it prior to the old one failing.

 

Beautiful, I'll be taking a trip Thursday that should be about that long, since I've been flushing all fluids and changing stuff I'll probably wait until thursday morning to put maybe about 1/5 - 1/4 of the bottle in. I was also thinking of doing the gear box, but I'd have to likely do it today (as I'm doing that today or tomorrow), and won't be driving much for the next two days. Think I should just leave it be or dump a little in and it'll be ok to sit relatively still for the next few days? As far as I know the t case isn't leaking so it isn't vital, but I figure keeping the seals expanded BEFORE leaks spring probably could help.

 

do you guys think this tank could be causing my problems though? I know I sound stupid, but could you guys explain it to me..............

 

filbs - check your fan clutch - if it is toast you won't get cooling at idle and slow speed around town. With truck off, spin fan and release, hot or cold, it should not freewheel and spin more than 1 revolution. You could also have clogged up calcium packed radiator, colder on bottom and hot on top, because tubes are clogged. D1 rad can be flushed and rodded out by indy rad shop.