So someone with alot of time on their hands and a little money needs to do a write-up for the benefit of all....please...or will I have to do it after I rebuild my gearbox.

 

As for the additives, it is my opinion that manufactures go to great lengths to make sure their products do what they are supposed to do and that when properly used they require no additional help and adding a "snake oil" can only make things worse.

Case in point, my wife's Volvo's rack and pinion had a "hard" spot in it when turning the wheel, it needed a new rack and pinion, $400 plus shipping and that was for a rebuilt because the one on her car was made in France and is no longer being made.
Bought the Lucas power steering additive, it got rid of the hard spot but fried her power steering pump.
Used power steering pump was $50, Lucas power steering additive was $12.
So I saved $338 plus shipping but spent a day of my time doing the work, not fun on a FWD car.

 

Ok so I had a shop replace my gearbox and they placed p.s. fluid. Which was pointless for replacing anything p.s. wise. Should I drain the p.s. fluid and replace it with ATF? Even though I'm leaking fluid? And would it be wise to add schepard's p.s. stop leak?

 

I think your experience reinforces the position I take that I don't let just anyone or just any shop touch my Discovery without me being as involved as possible and ensuring those kind of mistakes don't happen.

I would contact the shop and complain that their improper actions damaged the system and ask them what they are going to do to correct the problem.

Of course they may tell you it's not their problem or they may take responsibility. You won't know unless you confront them with the facts.

It's a shame, but most shops rarely are knowledgeable about the intracacies of our vehicles and what should not be done to them.

Good Luck with it.

 

If you don't go after them, then you are 100% responsible for the repairs. If you do go after them, they may just own up to some of repairs if not all.

 

I totally agree with everyone. So here's the story, as soon as I realized they put p.s. fluid I rushed down there to complain. As soon as I told them, they first denied the fact that ATF is supposed to be in there and told me that I was wrong. I had them call a LR dealership and actually talk to a tech. I was right, now they said since I drove it off their lot and didn't do a full inspection of the work done it was my fault. I raised hell and even the police showed up. The police told me I had to file a civil suit, get it fixed again the correct way so I had proof of the cost and report them to the BBB. By the time I filed the suit and pay processing fees the business went under. The only reason I took my rover to him was word of mouth and he knew what he was doing. Lesson learned. I may not be a mechanic but I will be the only one to touch my rover.

 

That just plain sucks.

 

Yes, yes it does. Sorry AuZZZie I had not intention on hijacking your thread.

 

Not sure if the following is tidy enough to be considered sticky-worthy material OR if this is even the best, super-secret way of flushing out a Power Steering Pump. It is really just the way to drain the system as you are replacing the pump....

1. First thing I found is most advisable is to thoroughly clean the whole area of oil / fluid soaked dirt and crud. All pipes, pulleys, pump and steering box. Since you will be removing the ps pipes and really, really don't want any foreign matter IN the system this is a good first step.

2. This is a messy job so a ground cover and catch container is necessary. Since no one likes a red stained driveway put down some cardboard and have an oil drain pan at the ready. I found that positioning the drain pan (if looking down from above) between the transmission cooling lines and the steering box works well.


3. This step is performed from above the engine.....

Loosen the resevoir cap. The LOW pressure feed line FROM the resevoir TO the pump is attached at both ends with hose clamps. Loosen the clamp on the pump end (pic 4) (not the res. end) and carefully work the hose away from the 90* fitting it is clamped to (pic 4) You'll need either a very short screwdriver or a spanner for the clamp. As the hose comes free, place your "clean" thumb over the end of the hose and maneuver it toward the drain pan then drain.

4. The HIGH pressure line leads from the pump to the steering box (pic 3 then 1). This hose can be loosened from the steering box end with a 14 mm spanner. loosen and drain... If you really want to be thorough you can also loosen the serpentine belt in order to spin the pump pulley so you are able to drain any remaining fluid in the pump... don't do this by running the engine.

Pic 1



pic 2



pic 3 (underside of front of pump)




pic 4 (top / inboard side of pump looking at 90* fitting for low pressure pump supply line)


For trivia sake, the high pressure hose fitting on the pump end of the hose (pic 3) is 5/8" and at the steering box end (pic 1)it is 14mm. Go figure...

5. So now you have drained the resevoir and the pump. If you want to go further and drain the steering box, it is easy. Get some small tubing...exactly the stuff you use for brake bleeding... and attach it to the bleed nipple on top of the cover plate of the steering box... found under the hoses that run along the top of the box (pic 1). Naturally (as Land Rovers go) this bleed nipple uses a 7/16" spanner... box end.
Open about 1/2 turn and drain until no more fluid comes out. retighten.

*AGAIN* BE VERY CLEAN ABOUT THIS... when refitting the hoses make damn sure no dirt or other foreign crap (silly foreigners) gets into the system. Also, the threads are fine and delicate so be careful not to strip them.

6. Now put everything back the way you found it. Don't forget to replace your O-rings in any pipe fittings that have them and DON'T start the engine until after you have it all assembled and have filled the resevoir. Refill the resevoir with your choice of ATF and NOT Power Steering fluid... Make certain the fluid level in the res is at the dipstick max. Do not overfill.

7. Start the engine and let it warm up to operating temp. Don't rev the engine up and don't move the steering wheel yet... just let it turn over at idle. Loosen the bleed screw until you see fluid come out then retighten. Check res level and top off to max line if needed. repeat bleed until no more air comes out.... just don't let the res go below the dipstick MIN.

8. clean up any mess you made and check for leaks at all pipe connections... even the ones you didn't touch... by turning the wheel to full lock in both directions. ONLY hold the wheel at full lock for about 10 - 15 seconds. You could damage a pump seal if held for too long.

For the record -- all this crap is found in RAVE - Workshop Manual under the steering section ya lazy buggers...

***EDIT*** Cautious thought I just had which I do not recommend yet (covering my ***)... I have never tried this but maybe one could avoid all those steps and just open the bleed nipple for draining purposes. But if you ran the pump dry or even low you'd be screwed... Maybe I'll try that method next time I need to replace a bad pump anyway...

 

Sounds good to me. Nice job.