Not starting...
#1
Not starting...
OK, this is going to drive me crazy.
I was low on fuel, but started it up and let it run for a bit, started fine, ran fine (or as fine as it can with that bad TPS) Shut if off and stepped into the house.
Came back out about 45 min later to run it down to the station and fill it up and it just turns over. I thought, crap, I ran it out of gas.
So I poured 4 gallons in, still just turns over. What next?
I don't have any way to check the fuel rail pressure, as my fuel pressure gauge will not fit the rovers port. But pushing it in gives me a squirt.
Ok, more info...
I used a tire gauge and the pressure was at 40 pounds... So that seems fine. I pulled a couple different spark plug wires and sparked them off the headers... again seemed fine. So I would seem to have spark and fuel... It almost acts like its flooding, after cranking and cranking it will give off a tiny backfire, it will also "almost" seem to catch like it wants to start.
I was low on fuel, but started it up and let it run for a bit, started fine, ran fine (or as fine as it can with that bad TPS) Shut if off and stepped into the house.
Came back out about 45 min later to run it down to the station and fill it up and it just turns over. I thought, crap, I ran it out of gas.
So I poured 4 gallons in, still just turns over. What next?
I don't have any way to check the fuel rail pressure, as my fuel pressure gauge will not fit the rovers port. But pushing it in gives me a squirt.
Ok, more info...
I used a tire gauge and the pressure was at 40 pounds... So that seems fine. I pulled a couple different spark plug wires and sparked them off the headers... again seemed fine. So I would seem to have spark and fuel... It almost acts like its flooding, after cranking and cranking it will give off a tiny backfire, it will also "almost" seem to catch like it wants to start.
Last edited by ngarover; 10-04-2010 at 03:12 PM.
#3
Pulled a plug, it is totally black. I'll head in and grab a new set of plugs and wires for it in the AM and put them in. Sucks, cause I was going to have the shocks put on in the morning, but now that moneys going toward this.
I have the new shocks sitting here, but have to problems doing them myself...
I can not get the bolts off the front shocks, vise grip will not hold it tight enough for the shock not to turn, and on the rears... My jack will not lift the truck high enough to pick the rear wheel off the ground.
I have the new shocks sitting here, but have to problems doing them myself...
I can not get the bolts off the front shocks, vise grip will not hold it tight enough for the shock not to turn, and on the rears... My jack will not lift the truck high enough to pick the rear wheel off the ground.
#5
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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How much labor to install the shocks? I put mine on all 4 corners in a few hours with one friend working with me. I would spend the money on a new jack. Are you saying yours wont lift the back tires off the ground? Do you have it positioned correctly? Does your old jacl leak? You can refill them with hydraulic jack fluid you know.
Or you buy a larger bottle jack from NAPA pretty reasonable. Get one heavy duty enough to lift the two ton Disco.
Or you can get a really nice high lift jack from several different vendors. I bought mine from Rovers North right after I bought my Rover. The high lift jack can come in real handy on the trail as it can also double as a hand operated winch if needed. In addition to jacking the truck up from the rear bumper.
I also went with the ProLine heavy duty spark plug wires from RN for 50 bucks. They are working fine.
Or you buy a larger bottle jack from NAPA pretty reasonable. Get one heavy duty enough to lift the two ton Disco.
Or you can get a really nice high lift jack from several different vendors. I bought mine from Rovers North right after I bought my Rover. The high lift jack can come in real handy on the trail as it can also double as a hand operated winch if needed. In addition to jacking the truck up from the rear bumper.
I also went with the ProLine heavy duty spark plug wires from RN for 50 bucks. They are working fine.
#7
http://www.tractorsupply.com/trailer...48-in--0115902
Only 50 bucks...
Like I said though, my main issue with the shocks is getting the dang top and bottom bolt off. I see no way to hold that post tight enough to be able to torque off the bolt. I worked on it for about 2 and a half hour (1 shock) and did nothing but strip the crap out of it. My only recourse that I see is just limping it to the shop and having them cut out.
#9
#10
Yikes, where do I start, lol. I hate to sound like a jerk, but I'd like to point out a couple of things.
First, you are trying to hold the stud sticking out of the top of the shock tower? Most people hold the SHOCK, with a pipe or chain wrench (a lot of autoparts stores will lend or rent tools like this, just ask.)
Then you worked on it for three hours without considering just cutting them off with a angle grinder or hacksaw, or using an $8 nut breaker? You are replacing them after all, who cares if all that is left when you are done is a smoking pile of metal chips. Jebus, just grab a cold chisel and start whacking away (on second thought, do some research about how to split a bolt with a chisel FIRST, THEN start whacking away.)
Also, new plugs are not going to fix your rich running problem, it will just make it so it takes a little bit longer before it strands you again - you need to figure out the underlying problem. Fix the friggin TPS already, you can find one at a picknpull for $20.
Last, I think if you can't get the back wheel off the ground with the jack, you are doing something wrong and possibly incredibly unsafe. I am pretty cavalier when I'm working on the vehicle, and I won't go near it without lifting the whole front or back and putting stands under the axles on the sides. Takes two minutes - floor jack under the pumpkin, lift, stands under the axles as far out as possible. That way I am sure I won't become a greasy spot on the driveway any time soon.
Good luck, and be careful
First, you are trying to hold the stud sticking out of the top of the shock tower? Most people hold the SHOCK, with a pipe or chain wrench (a lot of autoparts stores will lend or rent tools like this, just ask.)
Then you worked on it for three hours without considering just cutting them off with a angle grinder or hacksaw, or using an $8 nut breaker? You are replacing them after all, who cares if all that is left when you are done is a smoking pile of metal chips. Jebus, just grab a cold chisel and start whacking away (on second thought, do some research about how to split a bolt with a chisel FIRST, THEN start whacking away.)
Also, new plugs are not going to fix your rich running problem, it will just make it so it takes a little bit longer before it strands you again - you need to figure out the underlying problem. Fix the friggin TPS already, you can find one at a picknpull for $20.
Last, I think if you can't get the back wheel off the ground with the jack, you are doing something wrong and possibly incredibly unsafe. I am pretty cavalier when I'm working on the vehicle, and I won't go near it without lifting the whole front or back and putting stands under the axles on the sides. Takes two minutes - floor jack under the pumpkin, lift, stands under the axles as far out as possible. That way I am sure I won't become a greasy spot on the driveway any time soon.
Good luck, and be careful