Ok this weekend my '96 Discovery I SE7 is getting new calipers, rotors and pads all around. When I first attempted this fix some time ago, I got discouraged as the first bolt I touched on the splined star shaped drive member at the end of the hub sheared off with almost no pressure whatsoever and I got gun shy. Not to mention I broke two heavy sockets and my good craftsman 1/2" drive just getting the lug nuts loose. Well, I got my impact gun and 8lb sledge and I am ready to rock.

Here is my question: after I sheared the bolt (and there were only four holding the drive member on) it started to leak from the hub somewhere, but only when that wheel was facing downhill. Here are some pics:

[img] http://imgur.com/cYTSx [/img]

[img] http://imgur.com/xQeXD [/img]

[img] http://imgur.com/GW7qD [/img]


I have consulted the RAVE and figure I need the inner and outer hub seals at a minimum as there isn't supposed to be any oil in there at all, only grease for the wheel bearings.

It is hard to tell from the cutaway drawing if there are any other seals or gaskets that might be letting swivel ball juice into the wheel bearing cavity. Do I also need #23. Constant Velocity Shaft Seal (from section 54 of RAVE, the cutaway on page 2). I REALLY don't want to go messing with the swivel ball and CV joint if possible, as it is my experience that those are best left alone unless they are causing major issues, and they are fine.

Also, I can't seem to locate the vents for the swivel *****, to check to see if they are clogged. I can't seem to find them but cant imagine there not being any, either.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

-geek

EDIT:

PS(image linking SUCKS here, how do you post a picture instead of a link? I did it just the way the help said to.)

 

click on the little "insert image" box and add link, but remove the [img]...[/img]

or maybe not, tried it with your links couldn't get it to work, I use photobucket.
________
Hino Profia

 

Your seals are toast. You can try with just the inner and outer. Most times that will keep the swivel juice from exiting into the hub. If you fill up the swivels too much, they will leak out the hub and also into the front diff.

There are no vents on the swivels. Just a fill plug, and some have a drain. They take the Rover one shots now. regular gear oil will leak out. (most times)

The vent is on top of your front axle. It will blow oil into the swivels and thus, out the stub. Looks like your ***** may be leaking as well. I would replace the inner and outer hub seals and check the level in your front diff (I would just change it). Start there and see if it is still leaking. Worst case you will be out new front pads.

 

Did you use any PB Blaster prior to trying to loosen?

I prefer finesse over brute force with my Discovery, works much better. As far as the lun nuts go, I bought one of the 4-way t shaped lug wrenches from Advanced Auto for 20 bucks. It even has the correct size (1 1/16) and the crossbars allow you to apply plenty of force evenly and steadily. Remember the laws of physics, the longer the lever arm, the more force you generate. That's much easier than busting shorter drives and sockets. All a sledge hammer can do is malform, distort,and crack parts much easier than applying force in the correct plane and vector. Unless you enjoy drilling out broken off studs and bolts.

You might consider picking up a new set of bearings in case yours are worn. To replace rotors you have to tear it down totally you know. I also bought new caliper mounting bolts because I did not want to reinstall my old ones. That is always one of the things I consider. Much easier next time if you use new hardware this time. Less broken bolts in the long run.

Use PB Blaster liberally for two or three days in advance of disassembly, use a long lever arm (breaker bar) and good fitting sockets and those things come apart much easier. And no broken bolts to drill out.

 

You can't always go by the manual, hub seal is a case in point, there's only one hub seal.
If you off-road use the RTC3511 hub seal, much better than the stock Disco hub seal.
The seal in the sub axle (#23 CV shaft seal in the diagram you mention) is used to keep the lube in the swivel housing from getting in to the hubs.

You have a couple of options.
Replace the hub seal and the and CV shaft seal (and possibly the axle shaft seal from the looks of it) and use grease in the swivel and hub.
Or you can take out the cv shaft seal, axle shaft seal, replace the hub seal and swivel seal and run 85w140 in everything. But you need a swivel ball in good shape (no pitting/scratches on it) to do that.

For the drive flange bolts you broke, I'd get a left and drill bit to drill them out. There's a good chance it will back them out.