Ok guys after about 20 minutes of driving the oil light comes on and the car starts to over heat at that time. I'm not sure if they are correlated but what do you guys think. The engine makes no noise runs as smooth a's the day it rolled off the lot. The oil light comes on but does not effect the strength of the motor. I would just like to hear some theories. Tomorrow I will be installing a new oil pressure sensor and see what that does about the oil light.

 

By the way radiator is full so it's not put of h2o

 

A) Your over heating. B) Your thinning the oil out to much because its "burning" and therefore your getting the oil light. So, switch to 15-40 Shell Rotella and see if that does anything. Also, put a new oil filter on it as well. Get a 180 thermostat and put it in there. *YEAH YEAH stock is either 190 or 195* Does it boil over at all? And finally, don't turn the bloody A/C while driving. That takes strain off the motor while we figure this out.

 

X2 on above, plus - borrow/rent oil PSI gauge, while replacing the $10 oil switch (which operates at about 7 PSI), you can test for oil PSI cold and warmed up, at idle and 2500 rpm (4 numbers). Please post back. Also read https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...estions-46975/ in tech area.

Would not drive truck. When you say overheat, you most likely mean near end of the scale on the dash gauge, which can't be trusted. You are overheating when you are above 50% on the gauge. See pix.

When you warm up truck, turn off, and check radiator fins inside the fan shroud, top and bottom. Should be close in temp. If bottom is a lot cooler, radiator is sludged up with calcium. An indy rad shop can hot tank flush and rod out the calcium, usually under $100 near me. A new rad (copper) is very pricey; aluminum ones have come on the market recently at about $232. See pix. Be sure all the leaves and crud packed in between the AC condenser and the main radiator are removed (slide out rubber strip to examine).

You'll want to check serpantine belt route, and fan clutch. Spin fan and release when cold, should feel like peanut butter and not spin very far. Do same after warmed up. In both cases it shoul not spin more than 1 revolution when released. If it freewheels, the clutch needs to be replaced. $50 write up in tech area.

If overheating at 40 mph steady speed, won't be fan clutch, as air flow from motion is doing most of the work. That leaves coolant level, radiator, water pump, $10 thermostat. As much as I like 180F thermostats, you can change stats and still have problem, if radiator is clogged.

 

Leave the sensor alone, it is doing it's job.
You need to focus on why you are over heating be it a t/stat, head gaskets, bad coolant leak, electric cooling fans not working clutch on fan failed or plugged up radiator.

 

agreed!

 

If your looking to replace the electric fans get 10inch fans with mounting kit from amazon. Do what I did:
1.Take out old fans because they were dead.
2. Unplug the clips that give the fans power.
3.Run a positive electrical wire from the fuse box into the cabin, behind the dash to make it look nice.
4. Buy a switch at auto zone that you can neatly cut into the drivers side kick panel and put the switch. *This allows you to turn on the fans without having the a/c on or have it above 212!*
5. Run a positive wire from the switch to the fans and put both the fans positive wires in a wire nut to make them all on the same power. **LOOK AT WHAT WAY THE FANS SPIN FROM THE FACTORY. IS IT A PUSHER OR A PULLER. YOU WANT IT TO BE A PUSHER TO PUSH AIR THROUGH THE RADIATOR**
6. Wire a negative wire to the screw on the hood alarm sensor. (My ground)
7. Connect the ground to both grounds on the fans
8. Flip the switch and they should come on with or without the engine running.
Note. I put a fuse before and after the switch.
It cost around $50 and took 30 minutes to do.
The fans move 980cfm of air. More than the factory ones.

 

Well I have read all the comments so far and I do thank you.
Today I am doing these things and I will keep you updated.
1- Flush the radiator (water looks a little coppertoned)
2- get a 180' thermostat and put it
3-I bought 15w40 oil to make the swap and high mileage and performance oil filter. I know people don't like fram but it's all walmart had
4- possibly put in water wetter to cool it down


I will let you know how it goes
P.s. Does anyone think it's the oil pump. I mean the car runs the oil light just comes on. I sure hope it isnt it's an 800 dollar part

 

oil psi should be like 40+ cold at both R p m when warmed idle will drop to 15 or 20

 

It could be a couple of things: If its simply the oil pump and you can do all the work yourself it will only be a couple of hundred bucks. This gets you a new oil pump, timing chain and sprockets, and a couple of gaskets. If you have to replace bearings then it gets more time intensive and expensive. I did it on my DI. Took about 7 hrs to remove everything (first major repair on lr was this job, thats why it took so long) Took about 7 to get everything back together. Started it up and guess what, oil psi light was on. Replaced the sensor, light has not been on since! So, that being said your sensor could be failing.... Probably not but in my case the AB sensor I put in it 4 months earlier failed. Its like a $12 part, go to the dealer!