CopperTone water means that rad is very nasty inside. I would pull it and take it to a radiator shop before you waste money on much else. Going to a 180 thermostat is useless if the problem is the radiator.

You can flush it yourself and see what comes out, but it probably needs an acid dip and rodded out as well. And any coolant you put in before you get it boiled out is a waste of expensive coolant in my opinion.


There is another oil filter that is manufactured by Mann and sold in the US as Purolator that is bigger and better and has a low oil pressure bypass feature. it also has a true nut for installing and removing that is the best oil filter I have seen yet. I do not remember the actual Purolator number but it was brought up on here recently. I got one at PepBoys for around 6 bucks. I could not believe how cheap they were.

 

Well guys I opened her up and te thermostat was all the way out so thatwasnt the problem. I flushed the radiator and bam over heating problem over. Now after about 20 minutes on the road te oil light comes on when I press the gas. No Loss in performance really. Just the oil light coming on. So I will start to tackle that tomorrow any ideas?

 

ummmm... loss of performance might not be noticed at first as lubrication fails, wear increases, and engine attempts to convert itself into a modern art metal sculpture. At road speeds you may not notice the noises at first.

The lamp comes on when you crank truck, to check the bulb and switch. In just a second or two it should go out as oil PSI builds above 7 PSI. So we know that part of the system is working. Now normally the PSI on a D1 is on the order of 40 PSI warm and at 2000 rpm, as low as 30 PSI is within spec on the book. At idle, should be above 10 PSI. I got a test pressure gauge, and the correct adapter to screw it into the same fitting the switch comes from. When cold, mine makes about 44 PSI at idle and revved up. That is because oil is cold, and bypass valve in oil filter is opened up. As truck warms up, my idle pressure drops into the 20's because filter comes on line. Revved up stays pretty close. 15W40 Rotella oil, MANN oil filter.

So if your know the working light is coming on, you may have serious kill the engine problems. You will not know by watching the idiot light what the problem is, you need a test gauge. It may point to a cracked oil pump gear ($115 kit), or sludged up pickup screen or rotten O-ring on pickup tube (allowing you to suck air - not oil). And something that happened to me once, the oil cooler section of the radiator was restricted. I had bought a salvage radiator, swapped it out, cranked truck, went back under hood to check for leaks as it warmed up. No leaks. But red oil light also never went out, the oil passges in the cooler were 95% blocked (important test for those partz vulturez that fly low among us, before leaving the junk yard).

It is assumed by this point you have changed oil and filter. My favorite filter is a jumbo one by MANN (also under Purolator) that adds some oil capacity and also has very low loss filtration material. It only has to go 5000 miles, I don't change oil every 25,000 like some owners. See https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...estions-46975/.

 

Savannah,
Tell me more about the oil psi guage you put in. Did you use a tee to install it and leave the switch connected too? Or did you do it some other way.

I love the details you provide. Very helpful indeed. It indicates to me that many of us should consider dropping the oil pan and seeing what conditions we have as part of that major maint prior to doing the next oil change. Better to be proactive than to wait for catastrophic event to occur depending on age and other factors but especially if the previous history is unsure.

 

You need to go rent an oil pressure tester, Test when the engine is stone cole and at 2000 RPM's then hot at idle and 2000 RPM's, then get back to us with those 4 sets of numbers. In the mean time, quit driving it, not matter what you think, it can cost you an engine.

 

My el cheapo oil pressure gauge from Harbor Freight needed an adapter (1/2 -20?)from the blister pack aisle at parts store to screw into the place the oil switch came out off. I did my tests after changing to the MANN oil filter, and at around 180K I am happy with the PSI I have. But Mike is right, if oil light is coming on, there is no "safe" way to keep driving the truck. What ever it costs to rent a jalopy while you sort out the oil PSI issue is small compared to new motor. My gauge was jsut for testing, not the full instrumentation that some owners put in. I also so a pix on the web of an oil PSI gauge mounted under the hood, I guess just for that weekly test.

 

My 98 Disco experienced a similar issue a few years ago - vehicle ran good and oil light did not come on while driving around-town - where it does the vast majority of it's driving. When the vehicle was taken out on the highway, the oil light came on. Immediately pulled over and shut engine down. After checking oil level, (ok), started the engine and oil light went out. Long story short, sludge/carbon was building up in the oil pan and blocking sump screen - higher oil flow during highway driving caused debris to be picked up while city/low speed driving did not. Dropped the pan and cleaned out the gunk - problem solved in this case.

Get an oil pressure reading seems like sound advice to me.

 

Well guys I changed the oil with 15w40 rotella and did an engine flush before the oil change and changed oil filter. The oil light went off and has not came on. I am still going to rent the psi gauge tomorrow to make sure

Can having too much oil cause the oil light to come btw? Maybe it was that

 

No to much oil will not cause the oil light to come on.
Not enough oil will, oil getting to thin will, oil overheating will, clogged oil return passages will.

 

Well the 15x40 rotella oil and the radiator flush fixed both the oil issue and the over heating problem. I'm buying a thermostat tomorrow for it as well. Now I have a third problem. The car shakes semi bad not horribly at 55 mph or so. I checked the tie rods. Everything seems to be sturdy. Has this happened to anyone else. I might just need a tire alignment since I just bought new tires. You guys have been a ton of help. Any input is appreciated