Hi Guys -

I hooked up an oil pressure gauge and go the following results -

750-850RPM = 20PSI
2500ROM = 8PSI

Are these good numbers?

Using Shell 15w40 Engine Oil..

Any Input is highly appreciated!!

In Peace and Agape,
Trav...

 

with your truck warmed up, 750 rpm 20psi is good and at 2500 rpm 8psi is verrrrry bad. i hope you mean 80 psi, verrrry good. also 15w-40 very good

 

DON'T DRIVE TRUCK!

Would have expected:

cold idle - 40 + (because oil is thick and pushes past the bypass valve in the filter, so you get max pump pressure)

cold revved up - 40+

Hot idle - 10 - 20, becuase oil has warmed up, thinned out, and bypass valve in filter is sending it through the filter media.

Hot revved up - 30 - 40 PSI

My D1 reads 44-45 cold, 20 idle hot, 42 revved up hot.

Oil on dip stick?

Now - you could have a blocked oil filter. Try this one. https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...estions-46975/

You oil pickup inside the oil pan could be blocked, or the O-ring gone, which is allowing it to suck air.

Your radiator on the battery side has an oil cooler (tranny cooler is on the other side). Oil coolers can become obstructed. You can remove fittings (small O-ring on each). The oil pump "sucks" oil thru the pickup, through the oil cooler, thru the filter, thru the pump - on to the engine. Attached drawing.

You could also have a bad oil pump. They crack. Pix below, here's link to parts. Oil Pump Gear Kit W/Gaskets - Land Rover kits from Atlantic British

You could also have more rare problems with bypass or relief valve built into the engine - see attached.

DO NOT DRIVE TRUCK until resolved. I hope it is just a sludged up oil filter. You have to drop the oil pan as part of the attack on the front cover, so clean and replace pickup assembly and O-ring, little locktite on the bolts for that so it does not fall off.

 

Also - could be wear and tear on bearings, if so, they might be able to be replaced in the truck without pulling engine - see https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...earings-45707/

But your truck is too young for worn out bearings....

 

General rule of thumb, for every 1k rpms above idle, you should have 10 psi. Idle psi is a different story. But if it ever drops below 10 psi per 1k rpms, you have a problem somewhere.

 

Sava - just to clarify you say use Rotella Regular for Florida (and PR I assume). Regular means the non synthetic 15-w40? The poster of that thread you suggest uses the Triple Protection 15-W40. Is that the same one? Wow thats some filter he has there.

 

15W40 is fine for Fl and PR, and if you look down in the post you'll see a pix of the same filter under my D1 with a tape measure. Rotella 5W40 is also OK, it is a synthetic, and the plus of syn is long drain intervals, but that is with a modern engine, the old Buick likes more frequent changes, why spend the extra loot if not in a cold climate? Oil, like politicians, should be changed early and often.

See https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ghlight=sticky for pix of long term use of Rotella

 

Shell Rotella® Products | Shell Rotella

 

OK...thanks Sava (and Spike...I went to that page for clarification but still was confused as to regular vs. triple protection <regular>. got it now). I'll make that switch too...on both the oil and filter. I have a little knock now the last few hundred miles so I'll see if that helps at all. I guess I'll do that Seafoam in the oil treatment before I change and maybe, just maybe, do my first oil change myself.

Oil: Rotella T Triple Protection 15W40
Filter: PUROLATOR #L40316 (MANN 950/4)
Change: Both every 5K

 

Or every 6 months, whichever is sooner.
I have no idea how far you drive a year.
So every Jan. and June if you drive less than 10k a year.